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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / The 38 just won't start!

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Posted By Discussion Topic: The 38 just won't start! -- page: 1 2     TomO 08-23-2011 @ 6:48 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7250 Joined: Oct 2009 Do not tighten the distributor mounting bolts if the distributor will not ft flush with the timing cover. You may break the housing. Tom ford38v8 08-22-2011 @ 6:21 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2758 Joined: Oct 2009 ellis, the distributor comes out very easily, and no problem about alignment pon reinstalling, as the tang on the backside of the distributor is offset, allowing only one way to install. Just turn it till it is about right, and it will slip right into place. If it does not, it's a sign that it is 18oº off. Alan Dolman 08-22-2011 @ 5:14 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 177 Joined: Dec 2010 There are 3 bolts. The "invisible" one is at the bottom of the mounting plate down in the dim, dark reaches. Someone suggested putting a piece of cardboard between the radiator and the distributor to protect it and your knuckles. All of my cardboard was underneath the pickup verifying that the engine had oil, so I used duct tape and it worked well. ellis734 08-22-2011 @ 5:08 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 11 Joined: Mar 2011 Thank you for the reply. Does the distributor come our by simply removing what appears to be two bolts? I relaize I must be cautious in regards to keeping everything lined up. I just didn't know if there what anything else to loosen and if there was enough clearance without hitting the radiator. ford38v8 08-20-2011 @ 9:58 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2758 Joined: Oct 2009 Don, It's tips like your Uncle's that are desperately needed to keep the hobby alive. I'm sure that there are many here that will recall that tip... Now that you have refreshed their memories! Alan 40fordor 08-20-2011 @ 6:33 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 116 Joined: Oct 2009 My uncle was an auto mechanic from the teens up 1976. He taught me to use an ordinary business card placed between the points and with them closed then pull the card back and forth just a few times and my model A started after long inactive periods. Paper is a very fine form of abrasive and does not damage the points. The points do not require readjusting with this technique. Don supereal 08-20-2011 @ 8:31 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Thanks, Tom. I've see too many of these problems with cars and trucks that have set idle for long periods. Quite often, one of the two sets of points doesn't close, and while it appears that the distributor is working, the vehicle will not start. Filing points is a bad idea, as almost always they fail quickly. Replacement with sets of good quality points is necessary. Beware that many foreign made point sets are inferior, so ask your vendor whether theirs is USA made. TomO 08-20-2011 @ 8:18 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7250 Joined: Oct 2009 I would follow Supereal's advice. That way you can be sure that the car will run the next time you want to start it as long as you don't wait another 8 years. Tom 37RAGTOPMAN 08-20-2011 @ 5:46 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1958 Joined: Oct 2009 If you file the points, this will remove the tungsten or some of it,reducing the life of the points for sure, will burn that much faster,and you will have more problems , down the road,even maybe get stuck on it, this is my 3 cents 37RAGTOPMAN also check the wiring contacts on the resister, to make sure that is working,and letting 3 1/2 volts tot he coil, you could cross the 2 terminals just to see if it will start, with a jumper wire,do this only for a minute, no longer, ford38v8 08-19-2011 @ 11:08 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2758 Joined: Oct 2009 For the corrosion, would crocus cloth be better than a point file? Alan

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