| ellis734 | -- 08-19-2011 @ 1:17 PM |
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When my father parked his 38 Ford Deluxe 8 years ago it ran. I had the great idea of moving it to my garage to get it going again. Before doing so I had to redo the gas tank and remove the oil pan to clean out the sludge. It put everything back together and I have no spark. Friends tell me its the points. How can the points go bad when the car hasn't been used or is that the point? I'm an amateur looking for some advice. I hate to take the radiator out again to replace the points and is that actually necessary? There's not much room to work down there.
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| 42wagon | -- 08-19-2011 @ 3:06 PM |
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Ellis Unfortunately I think your friends are right. I have a Model A that sits in an unheated garage from December until April. Very often I find in the spring no spark and that condensation has built up a fine layer of corrosion on the points. By cleaning them with a point file everything gets back to where it should be. 42 Wagon
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| supereal | -- 08-19-2011 @ 3:19 PM |
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No, you don't have to pull the radiator. First, be sure there is power to the coil input. It should be about 3 volts. If you have access to an ohmmeter, connect it between the wire to the distributor and ground after unhooking it from it's wire. When you put the ohmmeter on the 1x input, you should see the needle jump as the engine cranks. If not, remove the distributor and replace the points. If you are not sure how to do it, there are those who do, or send it to Skip Haney for a rebuild. Distributor points oxidize in long storage, and must be replaced. When replacing the distributor, be sure the offset tang is in the correct position before you bolt it in place.
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| doning | -- 08-19-2011 @ 4:08 PM |
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Ellis, I'm betting also it's your points. My 37 sat over the winter and when I tried starting it...no luck. I removed the distributor, cleaned the points and away I went. Don
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| Henryat1140 | -- 08-19-2011 @ 4:42 PM |
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Also, it isn't necessary to pull the radiator to get the distributor out. It _IS_ easier done with two people, one working under the car.
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| doning | -- 08-19-2011 @ 5:06 PM |
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Since we are on this subject, is there anything we V8 owners can do so we don't have to clean our points every spring? At times my garage can get so damp it looks like someone took a water hose to my engine. Wrap the distributor with plastic wrap maybe?
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 08-19-2011 @ 5:43 PM |
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HI you can also use CRC ELECTRIC MOTOR CLEANER, Take one side of the distributer cap loose and swing it out of the way,so you can see the distributer plate, spray the cleaner on the points.this will clean the points, usually this will work, this might be a easy way out, who knows it might just work, and it can do no harm,and if it does run,besure relube the distributer cam, my 3 cents of advice, 37RAGTOPMAN if you send the distributer to SKIP besure to send the coil also,for rebuild,you wll be good to go, have them both done,
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| ford38v8 | -- 08-19-2011 @ 5:46 PM |
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Doning, if your garage is so damp and humid, your poor Ford will suffer tremendously over just a few months. I respectfully submit that you may consider an upgrade in storage space as an investment rather than as an expense. If you have only your distributore to worry about, a plastic bag can prove disastrous if left in the same damp environment. Remove the distributor to storage under your bed till driving season. Alan
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| doning | -- 08-19-2011 @ 6:34 PM |
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It would be great if I could fit the whole car under my bed!!!
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| 40guy | -- 08-19-2011 @ 7:42 PM |
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You can spray some WD-40 in the distributor. One of the qualities of WD-40 is it displaces moisture. I used to have a 46 that sat outside under a plastic canopy. when it would rain the plastic caused so much condensation in the distributor, I used to have to squirt it periodically; then it would fire right up and run fine. This is an answer to doning's question about prevention but will not help corrosion already present.
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| ford38v8 | -- 08-19-2011 @ 11:08 PM |
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For the corrosion, would crocus cloth be better than a point file? Alan
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 08-20-2011 @ 5:46 AM |
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If you file the points, this will remove the tungsten or some of it,reducing the life of the points for sure, will burn that much faster,and you will have more problems , down the road,even maybe get stuck on it, this is my 3 cents 37RAGTOPMAN also check the wiring contacts on the resister, to make sure that is working,and letting 3 1/2 volts tot he coil, you could cross the 2 terminals just to see if it will start, with a jumper wire,do this only for a minute, no longer,
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| TomO | -- 08-20-2011 @ 8:18 AM |
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I would follow Supereal's advice. That way you can be sure that the car will run the next time you want to start it as long as you don't wait another 8 years. Tom
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| supereal | -- 08-20-2011 @ 8:31 AM |
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Thanks, Tom. I've see too many of these problems with cars and trucks that have set idle for long periods. Quite often, one of the two sets of points doesn't close, and while it appears that the distributor is working, the vehicle will not start. Filing points is a bad idea, as almost always they fail quickly. Replacement with sets of good quality points is necessary. Beware that many foreign made point sets are inferior, so ask your vendor whether theirs is USA made.
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| 40fordor | -- 08-20-2011 @ 6:33 PM |
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My uncle was an auto mechanic from the teens up 1976. He taught me to use an ordinary business card placed between the points and with them closed then pull the card back and forth just a few times and my model A started after long inactive periods. Paper is a very fine form of abrasive and does not damage the points. The points do not require readjusting with this technique. Don
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| ford38v8 | -- 08-20-2011 @ 9:58 PM |
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Don, It's tips like your Uncle's that are desperately needed to keep the hobby alive. I'm sure that there are many here that will recall that tip... Now that you have refreshed their memories! Alan
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| ellis734 | -- 08-22-2011 @ 5:08 PM |
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Thank you for the reply. Does the distributor come our by simply removing what appears to be two bolts? I relaize I must be cautious in regards to keeping everything lined up. I just didn't know if there what anything else to loosen and if there was enough clearance without hitting the radiator.
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| Dolman | -- 08-22-2011 @ 5:14 PM |
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There are 3 bolts. The "invisible" one is at the bottom of the mounting plate down in the dim, dark reaches. Someone suggested putting a piece of cardboard between the radiator and the distributor to protect it and your knuckles. All of my cardboard was underneath the pickup verifying that the engine had oil, so I used duct tape and it worked well.
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| ford38v8 | -- 08-22-2011 @ 6:21 PM |
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ellis, the distributor comes out very easily, and no problem about alignment pon reinstalling, as the tang on the backside of the distributor is offset, allowing only one way to install. Just turn it till it is about right, and it will slip right into place. If it does not, it's a sign that it is 18oº off. Alan
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| TomO | -- 08-23-2011 @ 6:48 AM |
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Do not tighten the distributor mounting bolts if the distributor will not ft flush with the timing cover. You may break the housing. Tom
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