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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 38 Leaf Spring Disassembly

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Posted By Discussion Topic: 38 Leaf Spring Disassembly -- page: 1 2 3     john38coupe 07-05-2011 @ 12:58 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 130 Joined: Jan 2011 Just removed the two transverse leaf springs from my 38 frame and would like to disassemble them for restoration. Is there a step-by-step process regarding disassembly. They have two spring clamps holding the leaves in alignment and a center bolt holding them together. Thanks 40guy 07-05-2011 @ 1:11 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 270 Joined: Oct 2009 Just disassemble. The hard part is getting them off the car. Now that the spring pressure is relieved, disassembly is straight forward. There is no back and front to the individual leaves, that is to say the leaves in each spring don't have to be kept up with to face front or rear. Do however, keep the front leaves and rear leaves to each ones self. supereal 07-05-2011 @ 2:19 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 We use large C clamps to hold the springs together so we can remove the center tie bolt, then release them gradually. Springs can hold a considerable amount of energy, and caution is advised. We use the clamps when we reassemble the springs. Carefully examine each leaf to be sure that there are no wear pockets where the next leaf above contacted the one below. If you find any, grind them smooth so the leaves don't buckle and break. We coat the leaves with a product called Slip Plate, usually sold at farm supply stores. It is a graphite paint designed for grain handling machinery, and provides a durable lubrication. Always use a new center tie bolt when putting the spring back together, and be sure it is seated in the hole in the crossmember when you put the spring back in the car. Stroker 07-05-2011 @ 3:51 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1460 Joined: Oct 2009 Even though this advice is more applicable to the Model-T, Model-A folk, I'm putting it out because often V8 springs are rusted, and can come apart with vigor. In the mid-fifties, a bunch of us "hot-rodders" were building a little dragster that was Model B-powered. It had a 34 counter-weighted crank, 2-Port Reilly "F" head, and ran on a rather "snotty" load of 98% Nitro and 2% benzene. We decided that the stock "arched" rear spring didn't need so many leaves, so we torched the center-bolt. This event took place just outside the garage door. after the loud "sprong", we could hear the spring leaves one-by-one hitting the roof. Had one of us been leaning over the center bolt when we "blue-wrenched" it, it wouldn't have been funny. Today, I would not remove a center-bolt without some kind of restraint, such as a pair of C-clamps, etc. john38coupe 07-05-2011 @ 5:11 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 130 Joined: Jan 2011 Thanks for all the great advice. Safety was my #1 concern as I haven't done this before and large C-clamps sound simple and efficient. I'm learning!! deluxe40 07-05-2011 @ 6:30 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 413 Joined: Oct 2009 Another useful tool is a piece of threaded rod about 18" long with appropriate nuts and washers. Once you clamp the spring with C clamps or a big vice, remove the center bolt and replace it with the rod. You can then let it spring apart slowly as you unwind the nuts. The rod is particularly useful putting the spring back together. 37RAGTOPMAN 07-05-2011 @ 6:42 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1969 Joined: Oct 2009 I would wrap a chain around the spring,plus using clamps, using bolts to hold the chain links together, this way if the clamp breaks or slips off you have a fail safe, better to be safe then SORRY, My 3 cents worth 37RAGTOPMAN john38coupe 07-05-2011 @ 6:42 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 130 Joined: Jan 2011 I used c-clamps and loosened the center bolt till there was great excess thread. The top 5 leaves came loose but the bottom 5 seam to be held together by the spring clamps on each side. They have a button head sitting on the u-shape clamp but there is no indication of how its held on as there is no visible connection to the bottom leaf. The bottom leaf does not have a button on the underside. A bolt connected the two sides of the clamp and I removed the bolt and hit the ends of the clamp with a block of wood but it doesn't move. I assume under the top button, it must penetrate down through several leaves but I don't know. Advise please. ford38v8 07-05-2011 @ 6:47 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2780 Joined: Oct 2009 John, keep track of the long nut with the zerk fitting. It's not particularly useful until you need it for the Concourse. Alan john38coupe 07-05-2011 @ 7:24 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 130 Joined: Jan 2011 It finally came apart. The clamps are riveted to the #5 leaf and the two sides of the clamp were bent in due to tightening of the bolt that held them and once I expanded the gap to the width of the leaf, the entire assembly came apart. Thanks for all the advice as there was significant tension released but my center bolt was long enough to handle the bulk of it. I sat there with safety glasses and gloves and prepared for the worse. I'll do the other one in the morning. I'm saving all parts as this baby will be bone stock and targeting Dearborn, 2013.

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