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Discussion Topic:
Removing rear Brake drums tool?
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Ron Crouch |
06-15-2011 @ 9:01 PM
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Member
Posts: 25
Joined: Apr 2011
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Is there a good tool for removing rear brake drums on 36 sedans? Also I seem to have developed a leak in the front of the rear differential. Is there a seal or gasket there?
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kubes40 |
06-16-2011 @ 6:13 AM
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Senior
Posts: 3428
Joined: Oct 2009
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I think you'll find most folks prefer the K R Wilson drum puller. It works easily and doesn't do any harm. They are reproduced by Winfield Tool and well worth the cost.
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Stroker |
06-16-2011 @ 6:44 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1460
Joined: Oct 2009
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As Mike stated, the KR Wilson tool is the best. Yes, there is a gasket between the torque tube flange, and the mounting face at the front of the banjo. No, there is no seal inside, between the two components.
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supereal |
06-16-2011 @ 7:21 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Ron: open the filler plug on the rear end and allow excess oil to drain. Oil level increases over time as the transmission leaks down the torque tube. It will over fill the housing, and eventually swamp the pinion, and later will escape into the brakes, if allowed to continue. Many years ago, we would slow or stop leaks in the rear end by loosening the bolts around the leaking part just enough to wind a couple of turns of cotton string around the bolts, then tighten the bolts again.
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MOXIE |
06-16-2011 @ 4:41 PM
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New Member
Posts: 102
Joined: Oct 2009
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I'm not making any money off this puller but I purchased one and it works great, at half the price of the ones recommend. You can find it on ebay number 180681546927
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ford38v8 |
06-16-2011 @ 11:26 PM
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Senior
Posts: 2788
Joined: Oct 2009
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THe puller mentioned above from Ebay is interesting, but I see no means of protecting the axle end from damage. Indeed, the dual tightening bolt design itself seems to guarantee uneven pressure and stress on the axle end. I vote for the KRW puller. It doesn't make sense to risk so much to save a few bucks.
Alan
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40cpe |
06-17-2011 @ 7:20 AM
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Member
Posts: 477
Joined: Jan 2010
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Wouldn't installing the axle nut on the threads backward protect the shaft and threads from damage? How about welding a steel plate covering the back of a spare axle nut? That would wrap the end of the axle completely.
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supereal |
06-17-2011 @ 9:31 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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I've seen all kinds of hub pullers, but none beat the Winfield Tool KRW. Mine is very old, back when they were half today's price. Still, if you have an old Ford, and do your own brake and bearing service, it is a must. Years ago, when axles were cheap and plentiful. we used "knockoffs", which threaded onto the axle. Then, with the opposite wheel off the ground, we smacked it hard with a big hammer. If we hit it off center, and scr*w*d up the axle end, we made our customary trip to the junk yard. Today, the price of replacement axles makes the Winfield puller look like a real bargain. I used mine just last week on a really tough job and it came thru, as usual.
This message was edited by supereal on 6-17-11 @ 1:03 PM
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JM |
06-18-2011 @ 1:59 PM
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Senior
Posts: 823
Joined: Oct 2009
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Ron, many years ago I needed to tear down about six complete early Ford banjo rears. Some of these rears had drums/hubs that were so tight on the tapered axles that I didn't think I would ever get them off. At that time I didn't know there was a KRW puller commercially avaible so I designed and built my own. So far it has worked like a champ. I have not found a drum/hub that could not be removed with this puller. However, If I needed a puller today, I think I would just go buy a KRW puller because I spent a lot of my time building a good one. If you would like to build your own, I can send you pictures of what I made.
JM
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40cpe |
06-18-2011 @ 2:25 PM
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Member
Posts: 477
Joined: Jan 2010
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I would be interested in seeing your puller . Please post it here or send to purser2 at windstream.net thanks, Gene
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