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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Removing rear Brake drums tool?

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Discussion Topic: Removing rear Brake drums tool? -- page: 1 2

06-27-2011 @ 11:14 AM

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Gene and others who may be interested,
Hopefully, attached below, are the URL's to some pictures of the early Ford hub/drum puller that I made. Not necessarily a thing of beauty but it does function well. I made this from existing steel plate and hardware that I already had available in my home work shop. That's why you will see some extra holes in those plates that have no real function. It works on the principle of having two split arbor press type plates that fit in the hub groove and then fasten to a top plate to keep them fixed in place. Then four large Allen head machine screws (grade 8 or better) attach to the those plates and hold another plate in place. The large threaded bolt and internal threaded part are borrowed from another three jaw puller that I own. I show using a 3/4" ratchet and socket in these pictures but I now use a 3/4" electric impact wrench that requires a lot less effort on my part. I could have spent some time making all of this a little nicer looking but figured why do I need to do that on something that works well now and really doesn't need to look any better. It has worked great for me so far on dozens of drums, some that were really stuck tight on the axle tapers. As someone else mentioned, you need to make sure the brake shoes are backed off and away from the inner drum brake shoe contact area before you try to remove these drums with any type of puller.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e157/flathead_jer/Flathead%20Tools/reardrumpuller1.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e157/flathead_jer/Flathead%20Tools/reardrumpuller3.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e157/flathead_jer/Flathead%20Tools/reardrumpuller4.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e157/flathead_jer/Flathead%20Tools/reardrumpuller5.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e157/flathead_jer/Flathead%20Tools/reardrumpuller7.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e157/flathead_jer/Flathead%20Tools/reardrumpuller8.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e157/flathead_jer/Flathead%20Tools/reardrumpuller9.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e157/flathead_jer/Flathead%20Tools/reardrumpuller10.jpg

JM

This message was edited by JM on 6-27-11 @ 11:23 AM

parrish

06-18-2011 @ 7:33 PM

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don't forget to back the shoes in before you start

06-18-2011 @ 6:40 PM

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Gene, I won't have access to my computer/picture files for a week. When I get back home I can send pictures to you. I'm sending this message from my iPhone.

JM

40cpe

06-18-2011 @ 2:25 PM

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I would be interested in seeing your puller . Please post it here or send to purser2 at windstream.net

thanks, Gene

06-18-2011 @ 1:59 PM

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Ron, many years ago I needed to tear down about six complete early Ford banjo rears. Some of these rears had drums/hubs that were so tight on the tapered axles that I didn't think I would ever get them off. At that time I didn't know there was a KRW puller commercially avaible so I designed and built my own. So far it has worked like a champ. I have not found a drum/hub that could not be removed with this puller. However, If I needed a puller today, I think I would just go buy a KRW puller because I spent a lot of my time building a good one. If you would like to build your own, I can send you pictures of what I made.

JM

supereal

06-17-2011 @ 9:31 AM

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I've seen all kinds of hub pullers, but none beat the Winfield Tool KRW. Mine is very old, back when they were half today's price. Still, if you have an old Ford, and do your own brake and bearing service, it is a must. Years ago, when axles were cheap and plentiful. we used "knockoffs", which threaded onto the axle. Then, with the opposite wheel off the ground, we smacked it hard with a big hammer. If we hit it off center, and scr*w*d up the axle end, we made our customary trip to the junk yard. Today, the price of replacement axles makes the Winfield puller look like a real bargain. I used mine just last week on a really tough job and it came thru, as usual.

This message was edited by supereal on 6-17-11 @ 1:03 PM

40cpe

06-17-2011 @ 7:20 AM

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Wouldn't installing the axle nut on the threads backward protect the shaft and threads from damage? How about welding a steel plate covering the back of a spare axle nut? That would wrap the end of the axle completely.

ford38v8

06-16-2011 @ 11:26 PM

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THe puller mentioned above from Ebay is interesting, but I see no means of protecting the axle end from damage. Indeed, the dual tightening bolt design itself seems to guarantee uneven pressure and stress on the axle end.

I vote for the KRW puller. It doesn't make sense to risk so much to save a few bucks.

Alan

MOXIE

06-16-2011 @ 4:41 PM

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I'm not making any money off this puller but I purchased one and it works great, at half the price of the ones recommend. You can find it on ebay number 180681546927

supereal

06-16-2011 @ 7:21 AM

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Ron: open the filler plug on the rear end and allow excess oil to drain. Oil level increases over time as the transmission leaks down the torque tube. It will over fill the housing, and eventually swamp the pinion, and later will escape into the brakes, if allowed to continue. Many years ago, we would slow or stop leaks in the rear end by loosening the bolts around the leaking part just enough to wind a couple of turns of cotton string around the bolts, then tighten the bolts again.

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