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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 1937 Ford Engine Help.

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Posted By Discussion Topic: 1937 Ford Engine Help. -- page: 1 2 3     supereal 03-13-2012 @ 11:07 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Most performance problems with the Stromberg carb are due to a poor fit or adjustment of the throttle plates. Any leakage around the plates will cause the bleed holes above and below the plates to lose vacuum and interfere with the idle delivery. Same is true of a badly worn throttle shaft or shaft openings, in the carb body. These problems led to the replacement of the 97 with a later Holley unit. This message was edited by supereal on 3-14-12 @ 10:04 AM drkbp 03-13-2012 @ 6:52 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 180 Joined: Aug 2010 Hello doning, Lots of good advice on this thread. I drive my '35 Cabriolet quite a bit and one of the parts I carry in my car is a spare coil and condenser. Some years ago I bought one of the coil adaptors from the vendors for the three screw distributors. It lets you run a regular 6-volt coil and condenser on the '33-'36 distributors. They are also available for the two screw distributors, '37-'41. I haven't seen one for the 68 Distributors. New coil and condenser is less than thirty dollars at the auto parts or Tractor S. The adaptors are less than 45 dollars. To me it is sort of like a spare tire. As long as I have it, I don't need it. Screw driver and a pair of pliers and you can change it on the side of the road. Plus, if you loose the resistor, you can "cook" a perfectly good early 150 dollar coil if you bypass the resistor to get home. The adaptor gets you home in that case because you can bypass the resistor and go straight to the 6-volt coil with its internal resistor. Only trouble I have had with the 97's is trash in the needle valve, gas all over it. In line filter between fuel pump and carb solves that. One of the filters in the car too. Beats waiting for AAA or a trailer. Ken in Texas This message was edited by drkbp on 3-13-12 @ 6:53 AM TomO 03-12-2012 @ 7:56 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7253 Joined: Oct 2009 I have a Snapon coil tester and find that both the coil and condenser will fail when hot, but the coil fails more often. This tester checks the spark with a built in condenser or using the one on the car. The aftermarket condenser's are the most likely to fail due to a cold solder joint where the grounding tab is soldered to the case. Tom 40 Coupe 03-12-2012 @ 5:50 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1676 Joined: Oct 2009 I agree it could be either the condenser or coil or both. Try a NAPA FA49 on and see if that solves the problem before taking the coil off and having it rebuilt. I also agree the carburetor idle mixture adjustment screws are out TOO far. about 3/4 of one turn (for a single carb). If when the car finally idles correctly and you can do a carb adjustment if the adjustment screws do not operate correctly at <1 turn, you may want to return the carb for repair. supereal 03-11-2012 @ 6:41 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 That is exactly why we reuse a condenser, rather than risk a repro. We have a box full of old coils that will run only a few minutes before failing. Sometimes the resistor has been bypassed in the mistaken belief that it will make the the spark hotter. It actually causes more rapid failure as the coil heats up. Hot start problems are rarely due to the carb, unless the float is set too high or the power valve leaks enough to drain the bowl in a matter of minutes. 40ford 03-11-2012 @ 1:49 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 11 Joined: Oct 2009 Everyone is so quick to condemn the coil when spark is lost or weak when hot. I've found more times than not, it's a bad Condenser. When I check with a condenser checker, I often find them testing good until I heat them up a bit. Then they start leaking (electrically, not physically). A lot of guys change the coil, which has a condenser already attached and ready to go, and the car runs good. That means it was either the coil OR the condenser. The late Doc Shull told me about troublesome condensers when hot many years ago and as usual, he was right. AND a LOT of new condensers are marginal or no good right out of the box! There are a couple of well-known suppliers who sell this foreign-made cr*p and it's tough to figure out who sells good ones. supereal 06-06-2011 @ 12:43 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 You are welcome. Input voltage to the coil with the points closed should be about 3.5 volts. When the points are open, you will read battery voltage of 6+ volts. As for spark plugs, the H-10s are noted for fouling. I use Champion RJ14YC plugs instead, with the gap set at .028. They have a long snout that tends to burn clean. I know that Champion has been getting a bad rap, but I haven't had any problems with them. doning 06-06-2011 @ 10:44 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 158 Joined: Nov 2009 Thanks Supereal. supereal 06-06-2011 @ 10:00 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 skip@fordsrus.com is his email. Phone (941)637-6698. For my money, his rebuilt coils are much better than many of the repros. Poor ignition nearly always results in black spark plugs which, in turn, produce the problems outlined. Underhood heat isn't always the sole producer of coil problems. Shorted turns, due to compromised insulation, increase current draw and can cook a coil even when the windings don't show an open circuit. In have doubts that the carb is at fault, as Charlie Schwendler is an old pro. We set the idle needles with a vacuum gauge, and the number of turns varies with each engine to achieve a smooth idle and resolve any lag when coming off idle. doning 06-06-2011 @ 9:00 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 158 Joined: Nov 2009 I will. Thank you!

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