Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 1950 Ford V8 custom

Reply to Discussion | New Discussion << previous || next >>

Posted By Discussion Topic: 1950 Ford V8 custom -- page: 1 2 3     TomO 05-22-2011 @ 5:46 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7255 Joined: Oct 2009 If I remember correctly, you have to have the key in order to remove the cylinder. You will have to remove the entire switch assembly and take it to a locksmith. Tom Mvarriale 05-20-2011 @ 7:06 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 14 Joined: May 2011 Thanks Tom, marvel is in (2tbl spoons each plug). We don't want to run her we just want to see if she will turn. Turning with the breaker bar would be fine. Now I know we may look like we are going in different directions but we have 2days to wait for the oil to work. The car didn't come with keys. Does any one know how to get the iginition cylinder out ? TomO 05-20-2011 @ 8:19 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7255 Joined: Oct 2009 Since the car was parked for 42 years, there might be something wrong with the engine. The likelihood of having a good running engine without a rebuild is very slight. I would not use a 12 volt battery to try to start the car. A 6 volt battery should turn the engine over fast enough to start the car. I would: 1) remove all spark plugs and pour a few table spoons of Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder and let it set for a couple of days. Then try to turn the engine over by putting a socket wrench on the nut that holds the pulley to the crankshaft. If that doesn't work, you will probably end up pulling the engine to have it rebuilt. If that works, try the starter with a 6 volt battery and perform a compression test. You are very likely to have some stuck valves due to the long storage. The stuck valves can be freed up by removing the intake manifold and heads, then use a good penetrating oil to soak the valve stems. If you have good compression, replace the plugs and try to start the engine using an auxiliary gas tank and gravity feed to the carburetor. The original tank may have considerable debris and rust. 2) replace all wheel cylinders, brake lines and brake shoes. This way you will know that you have good brakes when the car is running. 3)install a new wiring harness to eliminate the chances of a fire caused by a short circuit. 4) remove the gas tank for a good cleaning and inspection. If there is rust visible in the tank, coat it with one of the new alcohol resistant coatings. Re-install the tank, inspect the steel gas line for rust and replace the flexible gas line and fuel pump with new parts that are resistant to alcohol. 5) check all steering components for wear and replace any worn parts. The current oils and gas are fine for your car. The alcohol content in the new gas can destroy the older rubber parts, most flathead engine had hardened seats installed at the factory and the flathead engines do not stress the valve lifters enough to require additional additives. These engines were designed and built before the additives for camshaft wear were incorporated into the general market for oil. Tom Mvarriale 05-20-2011 @ 7:40 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 14 Joined: May 2011 Thanks to everyone for replying. We would like to keep it stock. That was/is our intention jut that the pros in our area were making me nervous that it would be dangerous. We bought this car because it was never touched, it was/is a virgin. My son is like a kid, well he is a 15 year old kid He bought fuzzy dice the other day and has a color picked out. He want this car stock and ready for his prom in 3 years. We are eager to get the engine going. Any suggestions on what to do first. Should we pull her out or try to get her to turn over first? Since the system is a 6v system can we use a 12v battery to try and turn her? What about the fact the engine was designed to run on leaded fuel and all we can get is unleaded? Then there is the issue with the oil. We were told the oil manufactured today will not work in this engine. Oh yeah... We are very new to this type of stuff. I am a DBA by trade and can do construction work. The last car I worked on was a 1976 Monte Carlo back in 1978 Thank you all for taking the time to answer. trjford8 05-17-2011 @ 10:33 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 4216 Joined: Oct 2009 Mike, if you are new to the hobby and early Ford V-8s you should stick with building a stock car. It's much easier to follow that direction than to begin making modifications. From personal experience one modification can lead to others just to make things fit. Making modifications would not be a good first step for someone new to the hobby. Stay with the plan to leave it stock. I think once you have it running you will not want to make changes. Your first project is a learning experience and you don't want to make it complicated. TomO 05-17-2011 @ 7:48 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7255 Joined: Oct 2009 Mike, any changes that you make from stock, could bring you more problems in the future. A stock 50 Ford is an enjoyable car to drive and people love to look at a stock engine as they see so many of the 302 and 350's in all types of cars. As Alan said, it is your car and make any changes that you want to, but as one who has been driving his stock car for more than 30 years, I can say that it is more fun that any hot rod or modified that I had when I was a teenager. Tom ford38v8 05-16-2011 @ 12:06 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2762 Joined: Oct 2009 Mike, Where you go from here is entirely your decision. Your car, your money, your hobby. If you enjoy hotrods more than original cars, fine, go for it. You ask for input, however, so here's mine: If you want a muscle car, buy a muscle car. The old Ford Flathead was great in its time, but that was then. I'd stick with what you have or go buy something with power built in. Same with steering and suspension. Your car is an antique, you wouldn't treat antique furniture the way you've been told to do your antique car, would you? If you can't appreciate the value of an antique without modernizing it, why buy an antique in the first place? To answer in advance to those who will respond with modifications for safety reasons, these cars are basically parade cars, people pleasers, wherever they go they are on parade. There are so many unsafe features about them that if one were in a high speed accident, the odds of survival are slim regardless of how many safety devices you install. Drive your car defensively is the best investment in safety you can get. Alan proxie35 05-16-2011 @ 5:16 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 74 Joined: Jun 2010 Mike, if you will send your ph# I'd like to talk with you. I have parted out 4 50 4drs. I'm in Al. We'll be having a convention in Pigeon Forge Tn. June 1-4. fordpontiacman@msn.com Sherrel Mvarriale 05-15-2011 @ 6:19 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 14 Joined: May 2011 Hi All, We are making slow but steady progress. We've located floor boards thanks to Grandpasshoebox. We still can not find a trunk floor or wheel well. I've tried contacting a few places without success. confident we can rebuild the body we are moving on to the engine. The old girl hasn't moved in 30+ years so we are unsure which way to go. It is the original engine, should we rebuild or replace? If we rebuild we are thinking on using a local guy. I am leaning towards rebuilding but could be pushed either way. We were told to replace the front end (mustang rack), brakes ( power assist rotors instead of the drums) and a different steering column (something other than solid in case of an accident). Any comments or suggestions would be helpful. Thanks This message was edited by Mvarriale on 5-15-11 @ 6:20 PM Mvarriale 05-09-2011 @ 6:52 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 14 Joined: May 2011 Who was that masked man. On his white horse to save the day again. THANKs

<< previous || next >>

PAGE: 1 2 3

NOTE: YOU MUST BE A REGISTERED USER AND BE LOGGED IN TO POST (and reply to) messages in this forum. If you are a first time user, please click the CREATE A NEW ACCOUNT in the masthead above to register and Log In. After that, all you do is LOG IN to enjoy using this site.

DISCLAIMER: The V-8 Club does no independent testing of any of the opinions, thoughts or suggestions presented in the website on the Forum, in the Tech Tips section, or any section. A reader should consider the website to be a forum wherein differing solutions to a particular set of circumstances may be discussed. Ultimately, the selection of an item for an individual's vehicle must be based upon the independent study of the vehicle owner in consultation with people in the hobby and restoration experts.

EFV-8 Club Forum Home | Back to Home Page | Contact the Webmaster

Copyright © 2009 - EFV-8.org
Powered by < CF FORUM > v.2.1