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Discussion Topic:
59AB Running Very Hot
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rbone |
04-24-2011 @ 6:42 AM
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Posts: 47
Joined: Nov 2010
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Tom - thanks for the explanation. Ron
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TomO |
04-23-2011 @ 5:17 PM
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Senior
Posts: 7256
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Ron, What you saw with your ohmmeter is probably normal for a King -Seeley gauge and sending unit. The unit is not a thermocouple it is more like a thermostat. You cannot test the sending units with an ohmmeter. A wire is wound around a bi-metal strip and current is passed through the wire heating the bi-metal strip. This opens the contacts in the unit. The contact point gap is changed by another bi-metal strip. As the engine heats up, the point gap is increased, reducing the current in the circuit. The dash unit has a bi-metal strip that moves the needle in proportion to the current in the circuit. Any extra resistance in the circuit will affect the gauge reading. it has the same effect as increasing the point gap. That is why I suggested cleaning the threads on the sending unit and the head and then retry the sending unit.
Tom
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rbone |
04-23-2011 @ 1:54 PM
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Ken, I tested the unit by running my ohm meter from ground to the thermocouple post. As the motor warmed up the resistance was erratic. I called Stewart Werner and talked to a tech. They are down in Houston. After a few minutes of telling him what I was seeing, he suggested that I replace the thermocouple. I ordered one, installed it, and the gauge now reads normally (as checked with a good scientific thermometer). Hope this answers your question. Ron
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39 Ken |
04-23-2011 @ 5:35 AM
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What did you do to discover the problem and repair the "sending unit"??
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rbone |
04-22-2011 @ 2:46 PM
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It was the sending unit. Just drove her for a few miles and she is running at about 170. Outside temp today is about 90. Ron
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TomO |
04-15-2011 @ 4:40 PM
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Ron, Remove the sending unit from the head and clean the threads so that you get a good ground. Then try it again. The sending unit with one terminal is the one that determines the temperature on the gauge, the one with two terminals is just an over heat switch. A poor ground on either of them will affect the gauge reading.
Tom
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rbone |
04-15-2011 @ 8:53 AM
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Alan, Thanks for the tip. Actually, I took the thermostats out several years ago when I last replaced the upper radiator hoses. I had forgotten about that when I originally posted this topic. The water temperature, and the temperature of both hoses, slowly rose from ambient, which was about 85 degrees F yesterday afternoon, to about 157 F. Ron
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sturgis 39 |
04-15-2011 @ 1:51 AM
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A Cooper radiator cools twice as much as an Aluminum radiator. I thought you should know this in case you buy a new one. I see old Fords with Aluminum radiators and electric fans. I usually do not say anything but I would like to.
IF IT CAN NOT BE FIXED WITH BLASTING WIRE, DUCT TAPE OR JB WELD - IT CAN NOT BE FIXED
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ford38v8 |
04-14-2011 @ 9:05 PM
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Ron, did you do the top hose temp check as I suggested? The hoses will tell you if you have a faulty thermostat, which can definitely cause the latest condition you describe. A flathead has two separate water cooling systems which join only in the radiator itself. If one side of your block is not flowing, it will show hot on your gage as it should, but the radiator will never see that temperature if it can't get the flow.
Alan
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rbone |
04-14-2011 @ 6:26 PM
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Posts: 47
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Well - I checked the water temperature in the radiator this afternoon. With the gauge reading about 235 deg F, my temperature probe read 157 deg F. It looks like either the temperature probe or the gauge is bad. I will test and replace this weekend. Thanks for all of the help! Ron
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