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Discussion Topic:
Correct Trans &Rear Lube
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sunflower |
04-04-2011 @ 5:12 AM
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New Member
Posts: 108
Joined: Feb 2010
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Hi , I started a new thread my question was never answered on the old thread.I been useing straight 140wt. mineral oil in my trans and rear is that acceptable? Thanks S.
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40 Coupe |
04-04-2011 @ 6:41 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1679
Joined: Oct 2009
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140W should be good, look for it to be marked EP for extreme pressure.
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dansford |
04-04-2011 @ 9:13 AM
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Member
Posts: 75
Joined: Oct 2009
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Hi, the gear oil is not marked EP does that make a differance? all it has is high quality 140wt straight mineral oil non detergent. Thanks again
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supereal |
04-04-2011 @ 10:31 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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If it is marked "gear oil", it almost certainly has the high pressure additive.
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40 Coupe |
04-05-2011 @ 4:11 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1679
Joined: Oct 2009
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Dansford sounds like you have the wrong stuff! Most of the auto parts stores sell the correct stuff in several different weights such as 85W-90 or 85W-140. I buy name brand, and try to stay away from full synthetic, because it seems to seep out. One of the ones (there are seeveral other name brand Mfg.) is Valvoline, HIGH PERFORMANCE, 85W-140, "thermally stable extreme pressure gear lubricant", P/N VV825
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dfoote |
04-05-2011 @ 1:17 PM
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Member
Posts: 2
Joined: Jan 2011
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This is my first post since joining the Club. I will soon be replacing both fluids in my recently acquired 39. From the research I have done and previous experience I don't believe you want to use GL5 gear lube in the transmission due to the high sulfur content which will attack the brass syncro rings. I haven't located 85W140 GL4 yet. Stalube used to make it and I believe Lucas did also. Lucas's chemist recommends mixing their Oil Stabilizer with the 85W140 GL5 to reduce the sulfur content. Anyone know of a manufacturer for 85W140 GL4 ?
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supereal |
04-05-2011 @ 2:43 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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We have used the readily available 80W-90 or 140 oils for years with no problems. At one time, 600W oil was recommended, and it is high sulfur, and will attack components. Ford used it in the Model A days because it was the only thing that wouldn't leak right back out. It is an asphalt-based solution unfit for common use.
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deluxe40 |
04-05-2011 @ 7:51 PM
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Member
Posts: 413
Joined: Oct 2009
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Supereal's comment might explain why I have not been able to get the rear end to stop leaking in my early '32 (round flange at torque tube like the Model A). It leaked when I got the car in '86. It leaked after an experienced Ford mechanic installed the 3.54 gears and it still leaks after another experienced Ford mechanic replaced a suspicious axle housing. I guess I'l just stick with the drip pan and frequent refills.
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supereal |
04-06-2011 @ 10:25 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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One reason for leaks at the rear end is that the transmission leaks oil down the torque tube, overfilling the rear end. Try to keep the oil level just below the filler hole on the rear end. 140 weight oil will also help. Years ago, the cry of the Ford owners was "If it ain't leakin', it needs fixin'". That is why the garage floor in most old car guys garages have several layers of cardboard on the floor.
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51f1 |
04-06-2011 @ 10:41 AM
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Senior
Posts: 573
Joined: Oct 2009
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75W-140 is always available at Walmart.
Richard
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