| sunflower | -- 04-04-2011 @ 5:12 AM |
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Hi , I started a new thread my question was never answered on the old thread.I been useing straight 140wt. mineral oil in my trans and rear is that acceptable? Thanks S.
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| 40 Coupe | -- 04-04-2011 @ 6:41 AM |
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140W should be good, look for it to be marked EP for extreme pressure.
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| dansford | -- 04-04-2011 @ 9:13 AM |
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Hi, the gear oil is not marked EP does that make a differance? all it has is high quality 140wt straight mineral oil non detergent. Thanks again
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| supereal | -- 04-04-2011 @ 10:31 AM |
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If it is marked "gear oil", it almost certainly has the high pressure additive.
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| 40 Coupe | -- 04-05-2011 @ 4:11 AM |
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Dansford sounds like you have the wrong stuff! Most of the auto parts stores sell the correct stuff in several different weights such as 85W-90 or 85W-140. I buy name brand, and try to stay away from full synthetic, because it seems to seep out. One of the ones (there are seeveral other name brand Mfg.) is Valvoline, HIGH PERFORMANCE, 85W-140, "thermally stable extreme pressure gear lubricant", P/N VV825
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| dfoote | -- 04-05-2011 @ 1:17 PM |
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This is my first post since joining the Club. I will soon be replacing both fluids in my recently acquired 39. From the research I have done and previous experience I don't believe you want to use GL5 gear lube in the transmission due to the high sulfur content which will attack the brass syncro rings. I haven't located 85W140 GL4 yet. Stalube used to make it and I believe Lucas did also. Lucas's chemist recommends mixing their Oil Stabilizer with the 85W140 GL5 to reduce the sulfur content. Anyone know of a manufacturer for 85W140 GL4 ?
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| supereal | -- 04-05-2011 @ 2:43 PM |
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We have used the readily available 80W-90 or 140 oils for years with no problems. At one time, 600W oil was recommended, and it is high sulfur, and will attack components. Ford used it in the Model A days because it was the only thing that wouldn't leak right back out. It is an asphalt-based solution unfit for common use.
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| deluxe40 | -- 04-05-2011 @ 7:51 PM |
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Supereal's comment might explain why I have not been able to get the rear end to stop leaking in my early '32 (round flange at torque tube like the Model A). It leaked when I got the car in '86. It leaked after an experienced Ford mechanic installed the 3.54 gears and it still leaks after another experienced Ford mechanic replaced a suspicious axle housing. I guess I'l just stick with the drip pan and frequent refills.
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| supereal | -- 04-06-2011 @ 10:25 AM |
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One reason for leaks at the rear end is that the transmission leaks oil down the torque tube, overfilling the rear end. Try to keep the oil level just below the filler hole on the rear end. 140 weight oil will also help. Years ago, the cry of the Ford owners was "If it ain't leakin', it needs fixin'". That is why the garage floor in most old car guys garages have several layers of cardboard on the floor.
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| 51f1 | -- 04-06-2011 @ 10:41 AM |
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75W-140 is always available at Walmart. Richard
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| dfoote | -- 04-06-2011 @ 11:40 AM |
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Richard But is it GL4 or GL5 ? supereal I know you are a valuable contributor here, but are you saying you used whatever was available, GL4 or GL5 ? Certainly until the last ten years GL4 85W140 was readily available. Stalube and Lucas where very clear that GL5 is not to be used with brass syncro rings, something I have been aware of for many years. Regarding 600W there has been confusion apparently for a long time. When 600W was used the system for viscosity measurement was called Saybolt. Today we use S.A.E. viscosity measurement. 600W Saybolt is equivalent to 140 S.A.E.
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| supereal | -- 04-06-2011 @ 12:08 PM |
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The problem with 600W is not the viscosity, but the chenical composition. It is not suitable for use in syncro gearboxes with non-ferrous components. FYI: We buy most of our oils and greases at Walmart because they have better prices at retail than the local wholesale distributors. Any brand name gear oil is suitable for old car use, and is certainly is advanced well beyond the lubes available when the cars were built. We stay away from synthetic products as the ability to enter close tolerance applications also makes them leak past the relatively primitive seals in older vehicles. Most old cars are not driven enough to justify the very high cost of synthetics, anyway. You can do a whole lot of oil changes for the difference.
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| parrish | -- 04-06-2011 @ 3:32 PM |
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far as I know, NAPA still carries the attached photo 140 wt
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| 51f1 | -- 04-07-2011 @ 8:23 AM |
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dfoote: The Walmart oil is GL-5, but it states on the package that it protects bronze and copper from corrosion. I guess the warning from Castrol and others is brand specific. Anyway, I'm not going to change my transmission oil. If my synchronizer parts fail due to the oil, I'll let you know. By-the-way, leaking synthetic oil hasn't been a problem in my rebuilt transmission. Richard
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