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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / LB bearing caps

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Posted By Discussion Topic: LB bearing caps -- page: 1 2 3     37RAGTOPMAN 04-02-2011 @ 6:06 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1961 Joined: Oct 2009 superreal If you read my post entirely,.all I was saying it might be worth a try,if it does not work, go to plan B 37RAGTOPMAN supereal 04-02-2011 @ 11:02 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 The reason the caps are unique to a particular engine is because of differences in the block casting itself. They are attached to the block before boring, which compensates for any differences. The main bearing clearance is very tight, between.000 to .003, literally leaving no room for error. 37RAGTOPMAN 04-02-2011 @ 5:39 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1961 Joined: Oct 2009 alanwoodieman I with you, save the engine,!!! NOT MADE ANYMORE,!!! I also think how far could the caps be off, being FORD bored thousands even millions,and only had one set to bearing, I am sure these boring machine were kept on specs, this was not a hand fitted engine,it was massed produced, Put the caps on and torque down,then a simple bore gauge will tell you instanly if it is out of round, my 3 cents worth, 37 RAGTOPMAN alanwoodieman 04-01-2011 @ 9:24 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 868 Joined: Oct 2009 I still would try to locate a set of caps for this engine, regardless if you use it or not. Proper caps and a line bore would save this engine. A friend who builds engines and I just for the "H" of it swapped some caps between 39-41 engines and to our amazment they were identicle, or so close that a line bore would have made them good, so never say never thespringman 03-31-2011 @ 9:37 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 3 Joined: Mar 2011 Thanks for your input and support, I guess that maybe I was trying to do something that is not that important since this will not be a concourse vehicle, I do intend to drive it and enjoy gently using it since that is part of a great hobby. I have two good 37 or 38 engines that would require very little effort to get cleaned up and running. Maybe just rings, a valve job and new bearing inserts as both are low mileage. Makes more sense to spend the money on other things to make the car look as it should. Seems like everything in this hobby costs so much lately - even the paint and I need to get the project done so I can enjoy it while I can although my Dad was driving his 1924 Chrysler Touring until he passed away at 80. Again thanks for the support. 37RAGTOPMAN 03-31-2011 @ 5:24 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1961 Joined: Oct 2009 springman what if you installed a set of caps and used a dial indicator and see what the run out is. FORD bored out a lot of engines, and made std bearings that they used on all the engine they line bored, I would think they should be close, they did not have lots of bearings to chose from fitting every engine different, this was a mass produed engine,and assembley was rapid to say the least, FORD had a system that worked well. remember a dial indiactor would tell you if the hole is oblong, if it is true, I would install the bearing and crank and see if it turns, with no binding, then use plastic gauge to see if you have the correct clearance,on the main and rods, just my 3 cents 37RAGTOPMAN ford38v8 03-31-2011 @ 4:28 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2762 Joined: Oct 2009 Springman, Your engine is not "Factory Correct" for your 1936 car, but is historically correct nonetheless, as Henry envisioned it's use in your car as a "Short Block" by the manufacture of block-off plates for the conversion. Your engine is a 1937 engine, which in itself is something to brag about, a one of a kind engine, but for overproduction of which were also installed in some 1938 cars, and produced also for the exact purpose to which you have put it, namely, as a Service Replacement Short Block specifically for earlier cars having in-head pumps. You are in the position now to instruct the majority of those V8'ers who look under your hood, as most will have never seen a blockoff plate, and you can sign autographs for them as one who did exactly as Henry predicted. Historical accuracy is without a doubt well served here, and were he alive today, Henry Ford would smile on you and your Ford as a pair of survivors. As a Purist myself, I know that you are not completely satisfied with my justification of your incorrect engine, but I also have the happy news that your Service Replacement block will cost you a mere 20 points should you enter your Ford for point judging on a EFV8CA Concourse. As Supereal posted earlier, it's about having fun after all. Alan supereal 03-31-2011 @ 2:14 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 I know this heresy, but unless you are planning to build a concourse correct car, I'd opt for the best engine I could find, regardless of year. This certainly doesn't diminish those who do want to make them "as Henry built them", when the majority of those who view our cars really are not that impressed. Having a car that is reliable and fun to actually drive is the essence of the hobby. Many, if not most, of us old enough to remember these cars are retired, or close to it, and have to watch our pennies. That is no crime, and there are plenty of us out here who love the hobby and our cars. That is what keeps the Club alive! This message was edited by supereal on 3-31-11 @ 2:17 PM thespringman 03-31-2011 @ 12:32 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 3 Joined: Mar 2011 Sorry for the delay in responding to the replys to my question. You confirmed what I suspected was the case and that is that the block and caps were a matched set from the Ford factory which would explain why I couldn't find a part number for the caps in the copy of the green book I have. As to the project, I have retired and am trying to restore a 36 Cabriolet back to original condition. I have had the vehicle since the late 1950's but it has mostly been in storage. It is basically in good shape excpt for some rust in the floor pans (Paul Bradley finally got around to running a batch of them and I got one of the first ones). Unfortunately when I was young and foolish the main bearings gave out and I took the easy way out and put in a 21 stud block with insert bearings but with the water pumps in the block. Now that haunts me as the water pump block off plates on the later engine make it obvious that it is not the "correct" engine for that year. How far will I go to get the correct looking engine in the car depends on how much it will cost as funds are not unlimited. I would also want to have the LB block checked over very carefully before proceeding as I would hate to drop a lot of money into it only to find a problem. From the comments it sounds like it might be possible to line bore out new caps to match the block. Any thoughts on the idea to metal spray caps from a different block to get a little extra metal to allow for machining? Could also spray the block but then it might be difficult to locate the center of the bearings. Again, thanks for your input and the car will be back on the road with or without a '36 moter in it and will not be made into a rod as long as I am around. supereal 03-27-2011 @ 8:31 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 When we build race car engines we often install special main caps. However, these caps must be machined to match the crank to be used. The problem with used caps is that they have already been machined, and have no excess stock to permit reboring. Almost always engines that have been stripped of main caps, etc, were junked due to incurable damage. I sympathize with anyone wishing to save a block, but most don't want to spend the higher cost of the work involved. We recently reclaimed big bore Chevy block that had damage due to a tossed rod, but it was one of our leased engines, and cost wasn't a consideration. This has been an interesting thread, and I hope not worked to death.

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