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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Thermostat for electric fan

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Thermostat for electric fan -- page: 1 2     ole_Bill 03-02-2011 @ 11:01 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 165 Joined: Dec 2009 I've installed an electric fan in my '36 slant and right now it is controlled manually by actuating a toggle switch. I'd like to move to a thermostat controlled switch where the fan cuts in about 180 degrees. Does anyone know of a kit I can buy to do this? ford38v8 03-02-2011 @ 3:22 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2758 Joined: Oct 2009 Bill, I don't know of a 6v temp controlled switch, but if you don't find one, may I suggest that you install a timer switch that will run for maybe 5 or 10 minutes. Turn it on in anticipation of a stop light, or just before you shut off the engine. I assume that you still have the fan on the engine also. Alan supereal 03-02-2011 @ 3:32 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 The thermostat isn't voltage sensitive, but the fan relay is. Electric fans draw a lot of current, often in the range of 30 amps, so a relay is necessary. Jeggs has a whole page of fan thermostats in their catalog. Ask for a copy at 800/345-4545. We have used a 6 volt starter solenoid to handle the load if a suitable 6 volt relay isn't available. Also, try Scott's Fans. They sell 6 volt systems. 800/272-3267. 1933 03-02-2011 @ 4:52 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 25 Joined: Oct 2009 If you have a rebuilt radiator, Rebuilt water pumps and a tuned up motor , you should not need an electric fan. My 33 will run all day long between 155 and 170 degrees. Get rid of the bandaid and fix your problem, you will be a very happy guy. ole_Bill 03-02-2011 @ 5:33 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 165 Joined: Dec 2009 I have a NEW radiater, NEW water pumps and a NEW (except for the block and crank) motor. The electric fan solves a clearance problem for me. As you can see, I don't do bandaids. This message was edited by ole_Bill on 3-2-11 @ 5:34 PM 37RAGTOPMAN 03-02-2011 @ 6:01 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1959 Joined: Oct 2009 On the temp switch , like super says, the voltage does not matter, it were you place the switch,and that is were the problem comes in, were to put it?, most of the modern cars have them near the bottom of radiator, you could use one bottom hoses using a piece of pipe and the split bottom hose into two pieces, putting the pipe in the middle, and see how that works, find out which side runs hotter,and install in that side,they might be the same or whichever is easier. there also made be external switchs,were you just someplace on the radiator. and are ajustable, call JEGGS up for a catalog, or were you bought the electric fan should have sold you the correct switch for your application, get youself a pile of afermarket catalogs, and do some reserch,on whats available or could be used for what you want to do, try Hemmings motor news,for venders any paper store worth their salt should sell them, a world of information, hope this help 37RAGTOPMAN an KEEP on FORDIN,,,,, What kind of engine you using, that it does not fit?? a 49-53 block ? I had a 49-53 Merc engine in a 37 pickup and it fit, with no problems other than I had to lenghten the cross over pipe, have sold the truck 15 years ago This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 3-2-11 @ 6:10 PM trjford8 03-02-2011 @ 7:01 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 4214 Joined: Oct 2009 I am making an assumption that you are still 6 volt. check here for 6 volt electric fans and relays; www.fifthaveinternetgarage.com. If you zre 12 volt there are a number of hot rod shops that have just what you need. For 12 volt I would recommend the Cooling Components fan with the shroud. supereal 03-03-2011 @ 3:38 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 I agree with Tom. We install electric fans as "pushers" when clearance is a problem. The very early Fords were never known for copious air flow, having sacrificed utility for style. One big problem with electric fans is the current demand. Most top 30 amps, and the generators, particularly the three brush type, can't keep up. We recommend using an alternator if you install an electric fan, particularly if you do much night driving. ole_Bill 03-04-2011 @ 10:58 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 165 Joined: Dec 2009 37RAGTOPMAN - I have a 1947 59 engine in the '36 with an 2x2 Edelbrock super manifold which means there is no provision for a kinetic fan (no place for the bracket). After much discussion with the local authorities (regional club members) the electric fan seemed to be the best solution. The car is 6V+ with alternator. The spec on the fan indicates it should draw 9 amps. 37RAGTOPMAN 03-04-2011 @ 5:09 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1959 Joined: Oct 2009 did you try putting a temp sensor in the bottom hose.? was wondering if the hose is straight, or is bent a few pictures might help. a lot the intakes that were made years ago, were for drag racing, and they never worried about fans, this robbed horsepower,and only run the 1/4 mile. this were a lot of mistake were made, and then there were intakes made for the street driver, I have a 2X2 intake and you can use the generator with a fan,I do not use but have it for a display in my shop I think you might be using the wrong intake, years ago they did not have all this fancy stuff,but did have parts that would work, were you could drive the car, I think maybe when you find a spot for the temp sensor you should be ok, the fan is only good at idle, on the open road usually they do not run, maybe a switch on the carb linkage when the throttle is at idle turns the fan on? it just a thought hope this helps 37RAGTOPMAN

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