| ole_Bill | -- 03-02-2011 @ 11:01 AM |
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I've installed an electric fan in my '36 slant and right now it is controlled manually by actuating a toggle switch. I'd like to move to a thermostat controlled switch where the fan cuts in about 180 degrees. Does anyone know of a kit I can buy to do this?
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| ford38v8 | -- 03-02-2011 @ 3:22 PM |
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Bill, I don't know of a 6v temp controlled switch, but if you don't find one, may I suggest that you install a timer switch that will run for maybe 5 or 10 minutes. Turn it on in anticipation of a stop light, or just before you shut off the engine. I assume that you still have the fan on the engine also. Alan
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| supereal | -- 03-02-2011 @ 3:32 PM |
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The thermostat isn't voltage sensitive, but the fan relay is. Electric fans draw a lot of current, often in the range of 30 amps, so a relay is necessary. Jeggs has a whole page of fan thermostats in their catalog. Ask for a copy at 800/345-4545. We have used a 6 volt starter solenoid to handle the load if a suitable 6 volt relay isn't available. Also, try Scott's Fans. They sell 6 volt systems. 800/272-3267.
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| 1933 | -- 03-02-2011 @ 4:52 PM |
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If you have a rebuilt radiator, Rebuilt water pumps and a tuned up motor , you should not need an electric fan. My 33 will run all day long between 155 and 170 degrees. Get rid of the bandaid and fix your problem, you will be a very happy guy.
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| ole_Bill | -- 03-02-2011 @ 5:33 PM |
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I have a NEW radiater, NEW water pumps and a NEW (except for the block and crank) motor. The electric fan solves a clearance problem for me. As you can see, I don't do bandaids. This message was edited by ole_Bill on 3-2-11 @ 5:34 PM
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 03-02-2011 @ 6:01 PM |
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On the temp switch , like super says, the voltage does not matter, it were you place the switch,and that is were the problem comes in, were to put it?, most of the modern cars have them near the bottom of radiator, you could use one bottom hoses using a piece of pipe and the split bottom hose into two pieces, putting the pipe in the middle, and see how that works, find out which side runs hotter,and install in that side,they might be the same or whichever is easier. there also made be external switchs,were you just someplace on the radiator. and are ajustable, call JEGGS up for a catalog, or were you bought the electric fan should have sold you the correct switch for your application, get youself a pile of afermarket catalogs, and do some reserch,on whats available or could be used for what you want to do, try Hemmings motor news,for venders any paper store worth their salt should sell them, a world of information, hope this help 37RAGTOPMAN an KEEP on FORDIN,,,,, What kind of engine you using, that it does not fit?? a 49-53 block ? I had a 49-53 Merc engine in a 37 pickup and it fit, with no problems other than I had to lenghten the cross over pipe, have sold the truck 15 years ago This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 3-2-11 @ 6:10 PM
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| trjford8 | -- 03-02-2011 @ 7:01 PM |
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I am making an assumption that you are still 6 volt. check here for 6 volt electric fans and relays; www.fifthaveinternetgarage.com. If you zre 12 volt there are a number of hot rod shops that have just what you need. For 12 volt I would recommend the Cooling Components fan with the shroud.
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| supereal | -- 03-03-2011 @ 3:38 PM |
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I agree with Tom. We install electric fans as "pushers" when clearance is a problem. The very early Fords were never known for copious air flow, having sacrificed utility for style. One big problem with electric fans is the current demand. Most top 30 amps, and the generators, particularly the three brush type, can't keep up. We recommend using an alternator if you install an electric fan, particularly if you do much night driving.
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| ole_Bill | -- 03-04-2011 @ 10:58 AM |
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37RAGTOPMAN - I have a 1947 59 engine in the '36 with an 2x2 Edelbrock super manifold which means there is no provision for a kinetic fan (no place for the bracket). After much discussion with the local authorities (regional club members) the electric fan seemed to be the best solution. The car is 6V+ with alternator. The spec on the fan indicates it should draw 9 amps.
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 03-04-2011 @ 5:09 PM |
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did you try putting a temp sensor in the bottom hose.? was wondering if the hose is straight, or is bent a few pictures might help. a lot the intakes that were made years ago, were for drag racing, and they never worried about fans, this robbed horsepower,and only run the 1/4 mile. this were a lot of mistake were made, and then there were intakes made for the street driver, I have a 2X2 intake and you can use the generator with a fan,I do not use but have it for a display in my shop I think you might be using the wrong intake, years ago they did not have all this fancy stuff,but did have parts that would work, were you could drive the car, I think maybe when you find a spot for the temp sensor you should be ok, the fan is only good at idle, on the open road usually they do not run, maybe a switch on the carb linkage when the throttle is at idle turns the fan on? it just a thought hope this helps 37RAGTOPMAN
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| supereal | -- 03-05-2011 @ 10:10 AM |
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Any electric radiator fan that draws less than 20-25 amps at six volts is unlikely to be strong enough to replace the stock fan.
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| trjford8 | -- 03-05-2011 @ 10:38 AM |
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I agree with Bob that anything less that a 25 amp draw is probably not going to pull or push a lot of air. Electric fans are rated by CFM and the amperage.The more of both the better. Most good electric fans also need a relay because of the amperage draw.
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| supereal | -- 03-05-2011 @ 12:31 PM |
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Remember that 20 amps at 6 volts is only 120 watts. Most heater motors draw at least 10-15 amps. Many 16 inch fans moving about 2400 cfm draw 15 to 22 amps at 12 volts. That translates to 180 and 265 watts. With 6 volts, it means 30 to 44 amps. That is why the relay is required. There is another consideration. Most fan motors are permanent magnet type, and act as generators when air current rises enough to make them "windmill". Good quality fan controls are designed to eliminate these system "spikes". As with many things, installing an electric fan is not as simple as one might think. If you insert the sensor in a hose, it goes into one of the top hoses, as these carry the hottest coolant, and are closest to the radiator top tank. This message was edited by supereal on 3-7-11 @ 9:01 AM
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| 1933 | -- 03-07-2011 @ 4:06 PM |
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Sorry about that, I thought you were dealing with a stock 36 motor. Alan
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 03-09-2011 @ 3:30 PM |
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ole-bill CERTIFIED AUTO ELECTRIC in OHIO ,sold me a 6 volt alt, it came with a adapter to use the original FORD fan on my 1937 85 HP, it took 20 minutes to install,and was about $220. they advertise in the EARLY FORD V8 TIMES, It all bolted right on, and works perfect, if you have alt on top of the intake, you could get the adapter and use you original fan, this might solve you problem. my 3 cents worth, hope this helps,. 37 RAGTOPMAN and KEEP on FORDIN,,,!!!!
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| Stroker | -- 03-09-2011 @ 4:22 PM |
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37 Ragtop: Old Bill is using an Edelbrock "Super" 2-2bbl racing manifold which has no provision for mounting either a generator, alternator or any other support for a fan, as it has no mounting pad at the front. He really only has two choices: either run without a fan, or use an electric fan. If he had a 39 Deluxe, or 40 Ford, the choice of an Edelbrock Super would have only required a bracket for the generator that bolts to the head. Alas, he doesn't have that option. The upside, is that he has the best 2-pot flathead manifold ever created. Vic Sr./Bobby Meeks designed the manifold for serious racing applications, and they succeeded in that, but they created a problem for anyone with a 32-38/39std, or anyone with a 41-53 non racing application that required a place to mount a fan.
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 03-10-2011 @ 2:07 PM |
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Stroker like I said they make intakes for the track and they made intakes for the street, a street version would have saved a lot of work and problems, but they do look good on the engine, my 3 cents worth 37RAGTOPMAN
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| Stroker | -- 03-10-2011 @ 4:46 PM |
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Leon-Ragtopman: You are right, but of course we warned Ol-Bill from the very beginning. I had a 32 back in the 50's, and I opted for the Edelbrock 3-pot, rather than the Super simply because it had a mounting pad for the fan. I had to build my own fan drive, using generator parts, and a Fafner Flangette bearing assembly, but at least I had a place to put it. The 2-pot "street friendly" manifolds were kind of a joke, as they stuffed the carb bases way out of line with the intake ports. The "Super" placed the carbs where the needed to be, and nothing else mattered. Since the only issue is the fan, and since that issue is so easy to solve with modern electric's, I'll say that Ole made a great choice. Dan
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| deuce_roadster | -- 03-10-2011 @ 6:53 PM |
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My Edelbrock Super Dual has a mounting pad at the front. It is an older one, maybe the new ones don't have this.
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 03-12-2011 @ 4:22 PM |
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deuce-roadster that is one slick intake, the best of both worlds, I think I have a SHARP 2X2 but both carbs are stacked in the back. yea is not the best or speed,but allows you to place a generator with a fan, have this on display in my shop, how come they do not make something you can actually use on a 32-39 std ? you would think they would be a big money maker, I looked in SPEEDWAY'S CATALOG, and have everything but, my 3 cents 37RAGTOPMAN,,,An KEEP on FORDIN,,,!!!!
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