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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / '36, engine bay doubts

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Discussion Topic: '36, engine bay doubts -- page: 1 2

ford38v8

03-27-2011 @ 10:44 PM

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Tom, have you talked with Caps about the possibility of ceramic coating a flathead block from exhaust valve to manifold? If this can be done, the ceramic should help prevent exhaust gas heat transfer to the block. Not a new idea, but I've never heard any success stories.

Alan

trjford8

03-27-2011 @ 1:26 PM

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Victor, aluminum paint would not be the way to go on the heads. Check around with the powder coaters to see if they do aluminum spraying or know someone who does.I had this done to some manifolds years ago, so I hope the process still exists. If the process is no longer used I would go with the high heat ceramic process.Here's a web site to give you an idea; www.capsbhc.com. I've used this company on several occasions and have been very satisfied.

35ford

03-27-2011 @ 5:38 AM

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Just a reminder to be sure to use the HEAVY STARTER cables when re-wiring the 6 Volt starter switch. The 12 Volt cables won't do it properly.

TomO

03-25-2011 @ 5:42 PM

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Victor,

Eastwood sells an aluminum paint called Aluma Blast. It supposedly looks just like cast aluminum and is a low gloss product.

http://www.eastwood.com/specialty-coatings/engine-compartment-paints.html

Tom

Jim Wilson

03-25-2011 @ 10:24 AM

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I had the cast iron heads on my 36 powder coated with the high heat powder coat they use for exhaust manifolds. There are several shades available, and the one on mine is a very close match to aluminum.

Jim Wilson

36 conv sedan

03-25-2011 @ 8:45 AM

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Tom & Tom:

I have heard for years of possible trouble with the aluminum heads, so if my car is going to be a driver with sort of 'stock' looks, and after trying to repair the cracked head and having lots of problems while at it, I think I will have to take the latest suggested route: remove my heads and spray them in aluminum... hoping it will withstand the heat... and for that, I have a question:

Regular high heat paints that I have seen look a little bright and shinny, versus the real cast aluminum flat looks. I know Wurth has an Aluminum spray, apparently with lots of real aluminum content. I could also have some epoxic paint made, to match the actual looks. Any ideas?

I get the idea on the engine green paint and the clear machined surfaces... great tip.

Thanks,
Victor

TomO

03-16-2011 @ 7:07 AM

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The machined parts are visible when the engine is assembled. I used a high temperature clear coat to make it easier to keep those pieces clean and rust free. Use the satin finish.

I agree with Tom about the heads. You will need to be religious about your anti-freeze and rust inhibitor and may still get some electrolysis.

Tom

trjford8

03-15-2011 @ 7:25 PM

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Victor, if you want to look stock but still have a driver I would leave the cast heads on the car. The other option is to remove them and have them aluminum sprayed so they look authentic. As a personal opinion I think the aluminum heads are more trouble than they are worth. They definitely cause electrolysis and if you ever need to take them off they have a tendency to "grow' to the block.JMHO

36 conv sedan

03-15-2011 @ 6:22 PM

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After realizing I had many things wrong, I decided to do the car correctly. I already found the aluminum manifold, a good aluminum head plus a cracked head with looks like it could be repaired. I still need to find the oil scoop and the 97 carburator.

I took the engine out to clean out everything and paint.

Is the Ford engine paint supposed to be a very dark green? The authenticity manual I understand says that all the cast parts in the engine were painted, but not the machined parts... and I believe some machined parts would be visible if not painted, like the surroundings of the intake manifold, between it and the heads. Any ideas?

The radiator, it mentions, got painted in a special heat conductive paint, apprently flat, but it is not clear to me if I should paint it flat black or satin.
Any ideas?

Thanks,
Victor

This message was edited by 36 conv sedan on 3-15-11 @ 6:23 PM

36 conv sedan

02-02-2011 @ 8:35 AM

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What am I trying to accomplish? Good question, but a simple answer is: first of all, a good driver, as it is right now, and then, to gradually be improving it till someday it will be basically correct.

I already got a set of correct '36 horns and restored them, so they will be going on today. I already removed the extra horns, and I will be removing the horn relay also, and look for the wires as you suggest. I did buy a correct 1936 wiring harness but rewired (without adapting the harness itself) to make horns work. I will also remove the starter relay, as it does have the floor switch between clutch and brake pedals.

I will get to carb and the rest later, which I did not even know it wasn't correct.

What I know is not correct, and probably will not be for a good while, is that I have cast iron heads, but I have heard so much about the aluminum heads (and I have had a few problems with a Packard) that I am inclined to leave them on, just painted to simulate aluminum.

Basic intention is to have a good driver that would look as correct as possible, but never a show car.

Thanks,
victor

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