| 36 conv sedan | -- 02-01-2011 @ 3:10 PM |
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Hi: I am trying to correct some details that my '36 has, including changing the wiring harness, and I need some help: 1. As you see in the enclosed pic, my car had some adapted horns attached to the firewall, (one hole over the patent plate!). The adapted horns worked with one wire only, therefore I am guessing that ground was through the bracket, to the body. I already got the correct horns and restored them, and they got two cables. How are these cables supposed to connect? Is it one current, comming from a relay, and one ground? Where to? 2. My horn relay is also on the firewall, in the driver's side, just under the adapted horn. Where is it supposed to go? 3. My car also had a starter solenoid in the firewall which you will see in the pic. Where is this one supposed to go? Thanks for any help, Victor
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| MOXIE | -- 02-01-2011 @ 8:10 PM |
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there were no relays used for the horn or starter
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| 40 Coupe | -- 02-02-2011 @ 4:38 AM |
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the two wires on the horns connect to the wiring harness at the same location as the wires to the headlights. Hopefully there are two unused wires there and the color codes should match with the wires from the horns. There is no relay. Power (-) from the battery goes directly to the horns, the second wire runs to the light switch through the center contact to the bottom of the horn rod up the rod and when the horn button is pushed the top of the rod is grounded (+)
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 02-02-2011 @ 6:36 AM |
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I would think the extra horns were installed because of a defect in the wiring, I would look for the horn wire coming out of the loom at the bottom, of the light switch at bottom of the steering box, if not rewire the car, if you want it original, that starter solinod was first used in 1937., 36 FORDS had a floor mounted foot push button, so that also is not original, but if you are happy with it leave it alone, I think if you get a wiring diagram, it will show you to a certain point, what should be there, I think it is time to get a few books on the subject,this way you will only have to do it once, my cents, 37 RAGTOPMAN,
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| jerry.grayson | -- 02-02-2011 @ 7:55 AM |
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What are you trying to accomplish, correct 1936 parts or good driver? If you are going to original, the entire wiring harness is incorect, the carburetor is wrong year, the fuel pump is incorrect, and several other items. If you want to just have a good driver, then the above items are O K. Then why change the horn?
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| 36 conv sedan | -- 02-02-2011 @ 8:35 AM |
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What am I trying to accomplish? Good question, but a simple answer is: first of all, a good driver, as it is right now, and then, to gradually be improving it till someday it will be basically correct. I already got a set of correct '36 horns and restored them, so they will be going on today. I already removed the extra horns, and I will be removing the horn relay also, and look for the wires as you suggest. I did buy a correct 1936 wiring harness but rewired (without adapting the harness itself) to make horns work. I will also remove the starter relay, as it does have the floor switch between clutch and brake pedals. I will get to carb and the rest later, which I did not even know it wasn't correct. What I know is not correct, and probably will not be for a good while, is that I have cast iron heads, but I have heard so much about the aluminum heads (and I have had a few problems with a Packard) that I am inclined to leave them on, just painted to simulate aluminum. Basic intention is to have a good driver that would look as correct as possible, but never a show car. Thanks, victor
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| 36 conv sedan | -- 03-15-2011 @ 6:22 PM |
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After realizing I had many things wrong, I decided to do the car correctly. I already found the aluminum manifold, a good aluminum head plus a cracked head with looks like it could be repaired. I still need to find the oil scoop and the 97 carburator. I took the engine out to clean out everything and paint. Is the Ford engine paint supposed to be a very dark green? The authenticity manual I understand says that all the cast parts in the engine were painted, but not the machined parts... and I believe some machined parts would be visible if not painted, like the surroundings of the intake manifold, between it and the heads. Any ideas? The radiator, it mentions, got painted in a special heat conductive paint, apprently flat, but it is not clear to me if I should paint it flat black or satin. Any ideas? Thanks, Victor This message was edited by 36 conv sedan on 3-15-11 @ 6:23 PM
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| trjford8 | -- 03-15-2011 @ 7:25 PM |
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Victor, if you want to look stock but still have a driver I would leave the cast heads on the car. The other option is to remove them and have them aluminum sprayed so they look authentic. As a personal opinion I think the aluminum heads are more trouble than they are worth. They definitely cause electrolysis and if you ever need to take them off they have a tendency to "grow' to the block.JMHO
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| TomO | -- 03-16-2011 @ 7:07 AM |
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The machined parts are visible when the engine is assembled. I used a high temperature clear coat to make it easier to keep those pieces clean and rust free. Use the satin finish. I agree with Tom about the heads. You will need to be religious about your anti-freeze and rust inhibitor and may still get some electrolysis. Tom
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| 36 conv sedan | -- 03-25-2011 @ 8:45 AM |
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Tom & Tom: I have heard for years of possible trouble with the aluminum heads, so if my car is going to be a driver with sort of 'stock' looks, and after trying to repair the cracked head and having lots of problems while at it, I think I will have to take the latest suggested route: remove my heads and spray them in aluminum... hoping it will withstand the heat... and for that, I have a question: Regular high heat paints that I have seen look a little bright and shinny, versus the real cast aluminum flat looks. I know Wurth has an Aluminum spray, apparently with lots of real aluminum content. I could also have some epoxic paint made, to match the actual looks. Any ideas? I get the idea on the engine green paint and the clear machined surfaces... great tip. Thanks, Victor
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| Jim Wilson | -- 03-25-2011 @ 10:24 AM |
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I had the cast iron heads on my 36 powder coated with the high heat powder coat they use for exhaust manifolds. There are several shades available, and the one on mine is a very close match to aluminum. Jim Wilson
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| TomO | -- 03-25-2011 @ 5:42 PM |
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Victor, Eastwood sells an aluminum paint called Aluma Blast. It supposedly looks just like cast aluminum and is a low gloss product. http://www.eastwood.com/specialty-coatings/engine-compartment-paints.html Tom
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| 35ford | -- 03-27-2011 @ 5:38 AM |
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Just a reminder to be sure to use the HEAVY STARTER cables when re-wiring the 6 Volt starter switch. The 12 Volt cables won't do it properly.
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| trjford8 | -- 03-27-2011 @ 1:26 PM |
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Victor, aluminum paint would not be the way to go on the heads. Check around with the powder coaters to see if they do aluminum spraying or know someone who does.I had this done to some manifolds years ago, so I hope the process still exists. If the process is no longer used I would go with the high heat ceramic process.Here's a web site to give you an idea; www.capsbhc.com. I've used this company on several occasions and have been very satisfied.
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| ford38v8 | -- 03-27-2011 @ 10:44 PM |
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Tom, have you talked with Caps about the possibility of ceramic coating a flathead block from exhaust valve to manifold? If this can be done, the ceramic should help prevent exhaust gas heat transfer to the block. Not a new idea, but I've never heard any success stories. Alan
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