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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Resealing rear oval window

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wrosenkrans
01-01-2011 @ 9:28 AM
New Member
Posts: 134
Joined: Oct 2010
          
The seal on the rear oval window of our '42 Tudor Sedan is pretty well shot. The window itself is in good shape, but the rubber outer seal is very badly cracked and is certainly not watertight (evidenced by water marks on the package shelf).

I played a bit with the rubber to see how easily it might come out and its hard as a rock. Not wanting to risk breaking the window, I thought it better to seek advice. I also noticed in the current issue of the V-8 Times there is a response from Fred Killian in the Shop Talk section that there are installation instructions for the oval window.

Any and all help greatly appreciated.

Wayne & Barb
'42 Super De Luxe Tudor

supereal
01-01-2011 @ 10:57 AM
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Replacing the rear window seal isn't a big deal, but requires two people to do it. Starting on the outside, use a sharp utility knife to cut down thru the old seal to the metal of the opening. You can then pull away the old seal from each side. Carefully examine the area around the opening to see how well the headliner is attached, and fix it, if required. Being sure you have the correct seal (some vendors are careless), place the seal around the glass, and insert a pull cord into the outer groove, leaving the ends long enough to pull. We use a strong nylon cord. After cleaning the area around the opening on the outside, put some lubricant into the seal groove. Ivory liquid dish soap is our choice. Set the window and seal into the opening from the inside, and work the lower lip into place. While your assistant holds the window into place, and exerts mild pressure, using the pull cord, lift the seal into place around the glass. It may take some persuasion, and we use an old screwdriver with a tip bent at a right angle for the purpose, being very careful not to pry against the glass. When the seal is in place all around the window, wipe the area clean, and inject some sealer under the rubber flange on the outside, pulling back a bit of the seal as you go. 3M makes a good one. We like to mask off the body around the window before adding the sealer to make cleanup easier. Just take your time, and you shouldn't have any problems.

trjford8
01-01-2011 @ 2:29 PM
Senior
Posts: 4214
Joined: Oct 2009
          
In addition to Bob's great advice you will probably need to seal the rubber gasket against the glass. Water can "crawl" between the gasket and the glass and make it's way inside the car. Many of the gasket suppliers recommend sealing the gasket to the glass. I would do this before intalling the gasket and window into the car. Use a flexable sealant such as Napa Auto Parts black sealant, Part #4121. Once the window is in the car put masking tape all around the edge of the gasket as Bob suggests to eliminate a lot of cleanup. Seal the gasket all around the body opening and you should have a nice water tight seal. You can also buy a solvent that helps with the cleanup process.

This message was edited by trjford8 on 1-1-11 @ 5:10 PM

wrosenkrans
01-02-2011 @ 7:40 AM
New Member
Posts: 134
Joined: Oct 2010
          
Thanks very much for the information folks. Which supplier would you recommend for the seal, and is there a specific part number?



Wayne & Barb
'42 Super De Luxe Tudor

trjford8
01-02-2011 @ 8:14 AM
Senior
Posts: 4214
Joined: Oct 2009
          
I try to use Drake rubber when possible. It is much more pliable than some of the others.There are two part numbers,11A-7042084(without the groove for the chrome trim) and 19A-7042084(with the groove for the chrome trim).

supereal
01-02-2011 @ 10:44 AM
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Almost every seal we buy from any source was made by Dennis Carpenter. His items are top quality. Just be sure to double check that the absolute right one has been shipped. Being "close" doesn't count with these gaskets. We have run into this problem a time or two with windshield seals. Tom has given you the part numbers. If your window has the bright trim, be very careful in both removing and replacing it. The trim is hard to find, and expensive if you do. It goes on after the window is in place. Insert the trim into the seal by starting at the ends, working toward the middle. Rear windows usually join the ends of the trim with a clip, so be sure to keep track of it.

Johns46coupe
01-02-2011 @ 4:12 PM
Member
Posts: 68
Joined: Apr 2010
          
My 46 Super Deluxe Coupe is supposed to have a stainless trim on the outside of the rear window. It currently doesn't have it but I acquired one and I have a new rubber seal for the window that is made for the stainless piece. How does the procedure differ in this case? Thanks

John

oldford2
01-03-2011 @ 4:10 AM
Member
Posts: 275
Joined: Oct 2009
          
I always thought that the stainless trim on the rear window was only on Mercurys. Am I wrong? Does anyone reproduce it? Thanks John

This message was edited by oldford2 on 1-3-11 @ 4:11 AM

supereal
01-03-2011 @ 9:36 AM
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
          
There were trim strips used on both Ford and Mercs from '41 thru '48 on the Super Deluxe models. The plain ones carry the prefix 11A, the grooved type is 19A-7042084. I had a '46 sedan coupe with the trim, and was sometimes told "it has to be from a Mercury". It was an original car, so I believe it was stock. The scramble to turn out the '46s after the war was so great, you can find lots of different configurations. If interested, order the fine '41-'48 Club book.

This message was edited by supereal on 1-3-11 @ 10:26 AM

Johns46coupe
01-03-2011 @ 12:43 PM
Member
Posts: 68
Joined: Apr 2010
          
Oldford2 - I have a friend who had two of them. He saw my car and said I should have one and gave it to me I'll ask him if he wants to part with the other. Mine is in perfect condition. I don't have the clip super referred to but I think it shouldn't be too hard to make one.

John

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