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Discussion Topic:
Heater reducer 12v to6v
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TomO |
11-27-2010 @ 8:36 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
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son of 19. Turn the switch to the right for defrost and to the left for direct heat. This agrees with your description of the switch. If you are going to use the original switch with your 12 volt motor, be sure to replace the bulb with a 12 volt bulb.
Tom
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sonof19 |
11-27-2010 @ 7:54 AM
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Member
Posts: 34
Joined: Oct 2009
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I think facing the heater switch the first notch to the left defrost high. the next notch is low.and the motor is running backwards the first notch to the right is hi heat. and the next is low heat and the motor is running forward.any thoughts on this? son of 19
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trjford8 |
11-24-2010 @ 11:43 AM
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Senior
Posts: 4214
Joined: Oct 2009
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You might also try Napa Auto Parts. They have a good selection of heater motors. You need to know the rotation of your current motor(clockwise or counter).Somtimes you may have to shorten the shaft if you find one that will fit your mounting. Putting the 12 volt motor in your heater is the best solution.
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sonof19 |
11-24-2010 @ 8:18 AM
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Member
Posts: 34
Joined: Oct 2009
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Thanks for all the good advice. I think a 12v motor is the way to go. yes I do have new wireing.son of 19
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37RAGTOPMAN |
11-21-2010 @ 4:08 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1958
Joined: Oct 2009
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I am with TOM O, put a 12 volt fan motor in it,with a 3 way switch, also I also HOPE you have ALL NEW WIRING in the car,PLUS disconnect switch,for safty sake my 3 cents worth,37 RAGTOPMAN, and keep on FORDIN,,,!!!
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supereal |
11-21-2010 @ 10:48 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Can't quarrel with that, 46. Most non-professional meters can't measure current draw above milliamps, so we sometimes use a 1 ohm 20 watt resistor in series with the part to be tested, and put a voltmeter across the resistor. The voltage reading will be about 1 volt per amp. We have compared this with our Fluke clamp-on, and they are close. Once you know the current, you can approximate the amount of resistance to produce the nominal voltage. As even these small motors require more current than just a wire wound resistor can handle, a better voltage regulator/dropper would use a Zener diode and power resistor. A more cost effective solution is just to get a 12 volt motor, of course.
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Early46 |
11-21-2010 @ 8:17 AM
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Member
Posts: 18
Joined: Feb 2010
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I would agree, installing a 12V motor would be much better solution, just much more expensive. If you want multiple speeds, you will also have to find a switch/resistor combination designed for the motor. Super, I would agree that trying to measure the DC resistance of a motor to determine full load current is meaningless, but measuring the voltage drop across the motor or the voltage reducing resistor will only tell you if the voltage resistor is properly sized (i.e. correct resistance value). If the voltage reading is not to your satisfaction ( i.e. between 6 and 7 volts across the motor) then you should change the reducer. To determine the resistance value of the correct reducer, you will either need to determine the current draw or the value of the currently installed voltage reducing resistor. Hopefully the resistance value of the reducing resistor is marked on the device, but if it is not then you must otherwise determine it's value. As the nominal value is typically around 1 Ohm, making an accurate resistance measurement will be problematic, as most consumer grade VOM's or DVM's will be very inaccurate at this range. The measurement must be made with care, and you need to account for lead resistance and minimize probe contact resistance. Even using the Fluke 88, a high end automotive DVM requires the use of the Relative mode and then the accuracy will be around 20%. Once you know the resistance though, you essentially know the current and can compute an approximate value for the new resistor. This will only be an approximate value as the current drawn by the motor will change with applied voltage. That is why measuring the actual current at the nominal operating conditions is the best way! An aside to everyone, the "voltage reducing" resistor sold by most after-market automotive vendors for over $12.00 is nothing more than a aluminum housed, wire-wound, chassis mount power resistor, available from most electronic suppliers for around $5.00!! FINALLY, to the question of heat dissipation, the reducer will become warm, as it must dissipate around 30 Watts. To reduce the case temperature, I would recommend mounting the device on the firewall or frame so that the heat can be conducted away, essentially using the car as a heat sink. Make sure that there is very little between the resistor and the metal, as you need a good heat conducting path.
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51f1 |
11-21-2010 @ 7:43 AM
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Senior
Posts: 573
Joined: Oct 2009
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Twelve volt heater motors are available from the usual parts suppliers. LMC has one for $109.95 on page 66 of their latest truck catalog. Phone 800-562-8782.
Richard
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supereal |
11-20-2010 @ 3:07 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Any good full service electric motor shop should be able to find one that will fit the mounting. We have one of those next door to our shop, and they have found all kinds of motor for us. Pull your motor and take it along.
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sonof19 |
11-20-2010 @ 9:36 AM
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Member
Posts: 34
Joined: Oct 2009
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I want to thank each and ever one of you for your help.no one should ever have any problem operating these old fords as long we have folks like the v-8 club.I thank I will buy me a 12v heater motor any one know where I locate one?
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