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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Brake fluid recommendations & question

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Brake fluid recommendations & question -- page: 1 2 3     cliffgreen 12-01-2010 @ 8:54 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 4 Joined: Nov 2009 I have had the same silicone fluid in my '40 Ford since 1976!! Use a Harley Davidson brake light switch to solve any problems. It has a spade fittings instead of bullets. Old Henry 11-29-2010 @ 8:43 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 738 Joined: Apr 2010 Here's the recent thread on the horn problem that's very informative: http://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=2232 Old Henry (The older I get, the better old looks.) supereal 11-29-2010 @ 7:58 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 There is a set of good posts elsewhere here on the Forum on this subject. The horns draw heavy current, so a relay is needed, which often has burned points. The horn ring contact is suspect, as is the wire down thru the steering shaft. The bullet connector at the bottom may have come apart, as well. When the horns on my '47 quit, almost always it was a connector along the inside of the left fender, which I replaced. The horns often have rusty insides and poor contacts, as well. wrosenkrans 11-28-2010 @ 11:37 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 134 Joined: Oct 2010 I had my daughter hold pressure on the pedal once I had everything closed up and ran all the lines. I can't find obvious evidence of a leak, and there's absolutely no sign of softness in the pedal, but I also don't want to take any chances. I've ordered a kit from Snyder's which has all the cylinders and other bits. Our local antique car guy here has a well equiped shop with a lift, so I'm going to run it over there when he has a slot in his schedule to replace the cylinders, hit the chassis grease fittings, and do some cleaning/painting underneath. Probably also change the oil again. Only thing not working now is the horn. Any advice on how to run that down? Wayne & Barb '42 Super De Luxe Tudor TomO 11-28-2010 @ 9:58 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7250 Joined: Oct 2009 In addition to Supereal's advice about the black goo, if your master cylinder was empty, you probably have a leak. NAPA and other parts houses have master and wheel cylinders for your car. The Raybestos P/N for the master cylinder is MC1050, Right front cyl is WC8265, Left front is WC8264, Right rear is WC8267 and Left rear is WC8266. I would also replace all of the flex hoses as they are probably deteriorated as well. You will need the KR Wilson type hub puller to remove the rear drums. This puller clamps on the tapered part of the hub, not the lugs, to pull the hub. Tom trjford8 11-27-2010 @ 5:33 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 4214 Joined: Oct 2009 The shake may be due to old tires. If this car sat for a long time and it had bias belted tires I suspect they have flat spots. supereal 11-27-2010 @ 3:45 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 If you get "black goo" out of any wheel cylinder, it will have to come out and either be rebuilt or replaced. The "goo" is likely from the piston cups. It is probable that the pistons have corroded, and the bore is pitted, as well. Brakes are too important to take chances with, in any case. Brake cylinders are readily available, and not terribly expensive. wrosenkrans 11-27-2010 @ 2:11 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 134 Joined: Oct 2010 Pretty raw here temperature wise, but replaced the brake fluid and bled the system today. NO fluid in the master cylinder to start, and it was evident the rears hadn't been touched in a long time. The fronts, however, had new looking flexible lines and the bleeders were easy to turn. With my daughter working pedal, we followed TomO's instructions - thick, black, goo came out of both rears initially but finally clean fluid. The fronts didn't have the black goo, but did have alot of air in the lines. Went through an entire bottle of fluid, but finally got them all bled. And...we now have a nice hard pedal with nicely effective brakes! With brakes now working, I took her (my daughter named her Ellie, short for Eleanor) out of the neighborhood for the first time and up to speed. Most of the shakes and rattles died down after a couple miles, but there is a slight resonance shake right at 40 mph that rapidly dies down above 40. Next task is to clean and hit all the grease points on the chassis. Wayne & Barb '42 Super De Luxe Tudor wrosenkrans 11-25-2010 @ 7:33 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 134 Joined: Oct 2010 Status report: After a week plus, the oil level is holding and the color is now a dirty brown rather than coal black - sign the detergent oil is working I hope. Decruded the front end a bit exposing the grease nipples and the brake adjusters/bleeders. A bit of WD40 loosened up the adjusters and I was able to adjust the brakes which did need some takeup. Still a very soft pedal though and I plan to replace the fluid and bleed on Saturday when the weather is supposed to improve. All the little glitches, like the gauges not operating, appear to be self resolving with some use - probably dirty contacts. Car starts very easy and sounds sweet. Cleaned some surface rust out of the trunk and sprayed some satin black rustoleum, then reshaped the trunk mat and applied some vinyl/rubber conditioner - looks like new. Also did a thorough vacuum of the upholstery which made the colors pop out nicely. Working some leather rejuvenator into the leather trim as well which is making a nice difference. Wayne & Barb '42 Super De Luxe Tudor supereal 11-13-2010 @ 3:05 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Starting on a new project with an old car is always sort of an archeological expedition, and you usually make such discoveries. Old, barely, or badly, maintained engines are commonly full of sludge, often because non-detergent oil was used. We recommend a couple of fills and changes of an oil designed to deal with deposits, such as Rotella. It is used in diesel engines, and does a good job of cleaning up neglected engines. It comes in 4 qt. jugs, so you will need to buy an extra quart for your car.

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