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Discussion Topic:
Clutch removal for 46
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bricehb |
10-15-2010 @ 1:59 PM
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Member
Posts: 3
Joined: Oct 2010
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Something is making a metal to metal noise in my clutch and it looks like we might have to move the engine to get to the clutch. What is involved in removing the clutch? It is a 46 Super Deluxe 4-door.
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alanwoodieman |
10-15-2010 @ 4:32 PM
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Senior
Posts: 868
Joined: Oct 2009
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you have two choices, remove the engine to get to the clutch, or remove the rear axle and transmission to get to the clutch. I have done both and anyway you go it is a job.
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40guy |
10-15-2010 @ 4:41 PM
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Joined: Oct 2009
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I too have done it both ways and much prefer pulling the engine out. Once you get the engine out the job is pretty straightforward them. I would replace cluch,pressure plate,release bearing, and pilot bearing/bushing plus anything else I could while you're at it. This isn't something you want to do every day.
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37RAGTOPMAN |
10-16-2010 @ 6:26 AM
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Posts: 1969
Joined: Oct 2009
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it all depends if you have a cherry picker to remove the engine,or a hoist on a beam. you will might have to remove the hood, if you do not,I would pull the rear back , just enough to clear the trans coming out though the door opening, make a dolley [ a ATV or MOTORCYCLE JACK, would help also ] so you can slide the rear back,remove the wheels and tires, and put the car on jack stands, remove the floor boards, besure to put something under the engine so it will rest there, HAVE HELP LIFTING the trans back and out,besure to drain the trans first, if you have the small clutch you should be able to remove though the opening with the trans removed., and cover the seats and door panels. either way is a bear to do, hope this helps, 37RAGTOPMAN an KEEP on FORDIN,,!!!
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supereal |
10-16-2010 @ 9:16 AM
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Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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We prefer to pull the rear axle back far enough to get the u-joint clear then, with the seat all the way back, or out, and the floorboards removed, the gearbox comes back, up, and out. That doesn't require a hoist, as does the engine removal. Regarding the noise, does it appear only when the clutch pedal is depressed? Can you hear it when the transmission is in neutral with the engine running, or when in gear with the clutch down? In the first case, it is likely the release (throwout) bearing is bad. In the second, the front transmission bearing is failing. The last is heard when the pilot bearing in the flywheel is bad. In the oil level in the transmission correct? As in all cases of trouble, making the right diagnosis before dis-assembly is the key to a successful job.
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bricehb |
10-17-2010 @ 8:18 AM
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Member
Posts: 3
Joined: Oct 2010
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There is no noise when at idle. As I give it gas the noise begins and gets louder the more the engine revs. It is not a consistant noise, but a somewhat high pitched noise like something is loose and being kicked around. Makes no difference if the clutch is pushed in or not or if driving in gear. We put the car on a lift and listened and it seemed to come from the clutch area, whcih is what I was guessing. It was not gradual, one minute the car ran fine, the next minute it was shreeking. I had no idea it would be so much trouble to get access to the clutch. Thanks for all the comments. They have been helpful and have given me some direction.
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37RAGTOPMAN |
10-17-2010 @ 8:24 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1969
Joined: Oct 2009
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you can remove the starter and look in and see if you see anything that is or has left marks, I had a MODEL A.and a bolt had come loose and was rattling around the bell housing, I remove by turning the engine over by hand and packing the side of flywheel with wheel bearing grease and it picked up the bolt, and then remove the grease, also there is a inspection cover on the top of bell housing were you can look in, you will have to remove the floor boards, like SUPERREAL SAID, make sure you find the problem before tearing it apart, hope this helps,37RAGTOPMAN an KEEP on FORDIN,,,!!!
This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 10-17-10 @ 8:25 AM
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Johns46coupe |
10-17-2010 @ 5:00 PM
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Posts: 68
Joined: Apr 2010
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Having approached the clutch both ways, I would pull the engine. When you replace the clutch pressure plate, disk and associated bearings, it's a good idea to have the pressure plate and flywheel balanced together. You have to remove the oilpan to remove the flywheel. Doing so with the engine out was easier. I rented a high quality engine hoist for a week for $75. I had lined up a machine shop to do the balancing and gotten all the needed parts before I pulled the engine so it was a pretty quick job. But as others have said, locating the problem before pulling anything apart is the best approach. John
This message was edited by Johns46coupe on 10-17-10 @ 5:01 PM
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supereal |
10-18-2010 @ 7:18 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Check the starter drive. It may be sticking in or near the flywheel ring gear and not allowing the starter drive to fully retract. Be sure the spiral on the starter shaft is clean and free of oil and dirt, and the spring isn't broken. Look at the teeth on the ring gear though the starter mounting hole to see if the ring gear is damaged. Usually this will show up at the same place on opposite sides of the flywheel.
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bricehb |
10-19-2010 @ 12:09 PM
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Posts: 3
Joined: Oct 2010
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My mechanic is sure the noise is coming from around the clutch area. He is semi-retired and has a one-man shop now and suggested since we might have to pull the engine to wait a month since he has a restoration to finish up on another car. So today I had the 46 towed back to my house. Started it up to drive into the garage and the noise is totally gone! Drove around the neighborhood, engine very smooth, shifted very smooth, just like normal. The something that was loose might have been loose for years maybe and just got disloged somehow and now is back tucked away from spinning disks? I think I should wait and see if it happens again before doing anything. What do you all think?
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