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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Wanted 1936 LB Engine

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Wanted 1936 LB Engine -- page: 1 2     dicky 09-20-2010 @ 5:57 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 41 Joined: Oct 2009 Does anyone know where I can find a good 1936 LB Flathead? I want one that runs good. Mine has been running hot for 5 years. I am afraid that I just have a bad engine. Please contact me at richardherren@hotmail.com telephone is 205-680-9092 Pauls39 09-20-2010 @ 6:58 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 81 Joined: Oct 2009 We have rebuilt several of the early V-8s LB's included and the one common cause of over heating is the lack of water flow. The early pumps pulled water from the heads. They were not as efficient as the later pumps which had problems of their own. Most early pumps we see have been rebuilt, bored out or just plain eroded till there is excess clearance between the impeller and the case wall. They just do not pump enough water. The cure time and again has been new water pumps. Contact Fryers or Skip Haney for quality pumps. tudorbilll 09-20-2010 @ 9:22 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 108 Joined: Oct 2009 Your going to look a long time to find an LB {tell me how to idenify one whithout taking off the pan}I have pulled the front motor mount and push a heavey wire and work it around the cylinder walls while flushing with small plastic hose.you wont beleave the rust you can work out.Its better to pull the head and work down the water jacket that whey. I have a clean block & radiator whith Skips pumps never gets hot. WARMS up a bit in the mountains dicky 09-20-2010 @ 1:32 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 41 Joined: Oct 2009 My engine was rebuilt about 4 or 5 years ago. Ship has also rebuilt my waterpumps. I have a very good restored car and I wanted to keep it as origional looking as I can. I have done alot to this engine. I think there is a crack someplace. This message was edited by dicky on 9-20-10 @ 1:33 PM 37RAGTOPMAN 09-20-2010 @ 4:33 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1960 Joined: Oct 2009 dicky did you try a temp gauge in the radiator, to make sure it is actully running hot? HOW is the radiator ? is it clean ? and do you have any leaks, internal leak in engine, you would see white foam in the oil? there is also 4 core hole plugs,these are under the pan, and should have been removed when the engine was rebuilt, a lot of time. the rust falls down and builds up inside the block, and causes hot spots, because the water does not flow around those cylinders. hope this helps, lets hear how you made out, I have a 37 block if you have any interest, also SKIPS'S overflow VALVE works wonders, install the valve before you go any farther, follow the instructions,FILL WHEN HOT,so there is no foaming,from air being in the system, his pumps and valve worked for me,on my 37 runs cooler,even on hot days,has not overheated since, but do not do any parades either. use the MODEL A for that, 37RAGTOPMAN an KEEP on TRUCKIN,,,,, This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 9-20-10 @ 4:54 PM persmitz 09-20-2010 @ 4:48 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 2 Joined: Sep 2010 Bill, I definately fall under the "little knowledge is a dangerous thing" rule, but why cannot a person used the stamped serial number to verify? It is possible to round out the years quite close that way. I have one I deduced from 36. I am thinking it was 2 million 600 and some thousand. At any rate it corresponded to what I know using the production numbers to 1936, One must add em as ya go. drkbp 09-21-2010 @ 5:35 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 180 Joined: Aug 2010 Dicky, Are your thermostats working properly? Mine will run a little hot at 50 to 55 mph without the thermostats. I have a 4.11 and it is really churning at highway speed. The water goes through the radiator too fast. Actually the thermostats work as a restricter too even when they are open. They are in the top hoses. Also, the vin number is on the transmission housing and frame but not the engine itself. Hope this helps, Ken 1932BB 09-21-2010 @ 8:18 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 104 Joined: Oct 2009 If you are still looking for a 36LB I have two blocks and three sets of evrything else needed to build one, or two. I advertized in the classifieds a few months ago but had no bites. I plan to list them again in mid October after getting back from a motorcycle trip in West Virginia. TomO 09-21-2010 @ 8:33 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7252 Joined: Oct 2009 Dicky, when does your engine overheat at idle, local traffic or highway speeds. At idle that amount of water that passes through the radiator and the amount of air passing through the radiator due to fan action is important. Worn water pump impellers, clogged radiator tubes, bent fan or fan too far from the radiator and a larger number of fins per inch in the radiator can all effect cooling at idle. Overheating in light traffic can be caused by any of the above with the addition of incorrect timing and brake adjustment. Highway speed overheating is usually insufficient water flowing through the radiator or timing problems. A cracked block with combustion products entering the coolant will show up under all conditions and can be easily checked by removing the fan belt, filling the radiator to the top and running the engine at about 20mph. If you have a crack or a blown head gasket, you will see bubbles in the radiator. If the bubbles are small, you can try a stop leak product to seal the leak. If they are large, you can isolate which side by removing the upper hoses and repeating the test. Then you will have to remove the head on the failing side to make the repair. Let us know how you make out. Tom flatheadfan 09-21-2010 @ 5:02 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 450 Joined: Oct 2009 persmitz- I am not Bill but I think I can answer your question. The LB engine series was not widely used throughout Ford production in '36. From my understanding they were used on an intermingled basis in late '36. This means that in any daily production run you could have the poured main blocks and the insert blocks (LB)being used for production. Therefore serial numbers are not much of a guide in trying to find a "LB" block. Supposedly, all insert blocks have the "LB" stamped on the left front manifold deck. However, several folks have found engines without the "LB" stamp that are a "LB." In other cases a spurious "LB" has been found on non-insert blocks. Evidently, someone attempted to enhance the engine value via some creative "razzle-dazzle." So where does that leave you? You need to pull the pan and remove a main support to know for sure and not many sellers will allow you do this tear-down. Hope this helps. Tom

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