Posted By |
Discussion Topic:
Rebuilt engine breakin problems
-- page:
1
2
3
|
|
supereal |
09-03-2010 @ 1:51 PM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
|
Ken39: Here is a copy of our general warranty page. We do use others for more specific jobs, but it should give you an idea of what we believe is a necessary document when contracting for a large scale (expensive) job.
|
lightflyer1 |
09-03-2010 @ 1:37 PM
|
|
|
New Member
Posts: 107
Joined: Oct 2009
|
Update: Made some more runs and it seems to be doing pretty good now. Not boiling over and running around 170. Trying to stay around 30 to 40 mph. Speed up and slowing down at times to break in. Temps are cooler right now so that is good.
|
37RAGTOPMAN |
09-02-2010 @ 4:36 PM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 1958
Joined: Oct 2009
|
ole bill when you pickup the 59AB,just take a socket and a breaker bar,and turn over the engine, and see if it moves, it will have drag on it, but not like it is stuck, 37RAGTOPMAN and KEEP on FORDIN, GOOD LUCK with that new rebuild, get it in and running before you sell your old engine,
|
39 Ken |
09-02-2010 @ 3:33 AM
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 380
Joined: Oct 2009
|
Bob, Please post that sheet. We're just pulling a 221 for rebuild and that will help in preparing the builder. Thanks. Ken
|
supereal |
09-01-2010 @ 7:48 AM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
|
As usual, I agree with TomO. The clearances for flatheads are quite different from modern engines. Your rebuilder should have those on hand before starting the job. If anyone needs them, I can post them directly from the Ford engine manual dated July 7, 1947, covering the '37-'48 models. Anyone having, or contemplating, a rebuild should receive a written warranty, along with conditions that must be met to keep the warranty valid, before giving the go-ahead. We began that policy years ago, and it protects both parties from misunderstandings regarding the duties of each.
|
TomO |
09-01-2010 @ 7:09 AM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 7252
Joined: Oct 2009
|
If you supplied the shop with the specs for your engine or they had them from previous experience, you should not have a problem. If you have any concerns, discuss them with the shop owner as he has all of the information about how your engine was assembled.
Tom
|
ole_Bill |
09-01-2010 @ 6:44 AM
|
|
|
New Member
Posts: 165
Joined: Dec 2009
|
You guys are scaring the pee out of me. I'm about to take delivery of a rebuilt 59A from a local rebuilder who comes highly recommended. I never considered that I might have these kinds of problems. Is this common?
|
lightflyer1 |
08-31-2010 @ 8:41 AM
|
|
|
New Member
Posts: 107
Joined: Oct 2009
|
Sounds like I have done all I can to help him. It will now be between him and the builder for resolution. Thanks for all your help with this issue!
|
supereal |
08-31-2010 @ 6:49 AM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
|
Generally, running a too tight engine will seldom fix the problem, particularly if the piston fit was wrong. It depends on the type and quality of the cylinder honing. If the cylinders were bored to eliminate taper, and then honed to spec leaving a good crosshatch pattern, it may improve. If the rod and main bearings are too tight, the usual outcome is failure of one or more of the inserts. Same is true if the piston ring gaps were not adequate.
|
lightflyer1 |
08-30-2010 @ 4:36 PM
|
|
|
New Member
Posts: 107
Joined: Oct 2009
|
He decided to reinstall thermostats and see if it made a difference. None still overheated. My suggestion at this point to him as he is reticent to send it back, is to remove thermostats and drive it everyday close to home and get it back if the temp starts going up. Park until cool and try again. As supereal has stated I believe the engine is too tight. Hopefully running it in a little (carefully) every day, may let it loosen up some. I am not privy really as to what the builder and he have discussed or not discussed.
|