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Discussion Topic:
Weird horn issue on my 36 Sedan Convertible
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Erbleding |
03-03-2024 @ 2:08 PM
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Member
Posts: 18
Joined: Mar 2023
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Wanted to thank all of you for your help. With your guidance I was able to get my horns working. 40 Coupe, you were spot on. I needed to move the horn wire over to the hot post on the starter switch. Now I feel much safer driving the car. Thanks again
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40 Coupe |
03-03-2024 @ 8:17 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1676
Joined: Oct 2009
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Looking for your reply.
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37RAGTOPMAN |
02-29-2024 @ 8:18 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1961
Joined: Oct 2009
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I would take the bulb on the bottom of steering column and see if you have wires touching, seems to me you have a dead short, it might be the light swtich rod, take a test light, attach to a hot contact, now use the pointer and attach to the bottom of light switch rod, if it lights up you have a short in the rod, if it does not light up have someone push the button down and if it lights, your light switch rod is OK let hear how you made out, 37Ragtopman,Maine
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40 Coupe |
02-29-2024 @ 8:17 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1676
Joined: Oct 2009
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Never do wiring on a car with the battery connected! The sparks are from the horns trying to sound due to a second problem. If you can get to the horns you can disconnect the second wire on each. Hard to tell from the wiring diagram but it appears to be Black/Yellow wire. Then with the battery disconnected move the Y wire on the foot starter switch. Reconnect the battery and the horns should not sound. If the horns do not sound reconnect the B/Y wires on both horns. If this works out report back today and we will continue to find the problem area, tomorrow. Problem may lie in the light switch or the horn wire in the steering column.
This message was edited by 40 Coupe on 2-29-24 @ 8:35 AM
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Erbleding |
02-28-2024 @ 6:11 PM
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Member
Posts: 18
Joined: Mar 2023
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I just double checked and ther3cwasca yellow wire that was attached to the post that did NOT go to the battery. So I removed that wire and attempted to move it to the post with the other yellow wire and the wire that goes to that battery. When I touched the wire to the post, sparks flew
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JayChicago |
02-28-2024 @ 9:27 AM
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Member
Posts: 480
Joined: Jan 2016
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That's not what I see in that earlier pic. I see two yellow wires (sharing one connector) on the terminal with the battery cable. The other terminal has one fat wire (coincidentally yellow), which I assume must be going to the starter.
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51woodie |
02-28-2024 @ 2:53 AM
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Senior
Posts: 511
Joined: Jan 2017
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E. From your previous picture, it looks like a yellow wire goes to each terminal of the starter switch. Both of those yellow wires should be on the same terminal as the cable that comes from the battery.
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Erbleding |
02-27-2024 @ 2:08 PM
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Member
Posts: 18
Joined: Mar 2023
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Here is a photo of where the wires from the switch are connected to the horns
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Erbleding |
02-27-2024 @ 1:59 PM
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Member
Posts: 18
Joined: Mar 2023
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37ragtopman, Thank you for the information. I will try what you suggested. The car had been completely restored, which included new wiring, but it sat for an unknown number of rears afterwards. I’m wondering if the yellow wire in my photo should be moved to the other post on the starter switch?
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BRL |
02-27-2024 @ 10:59 AM
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New Member
Posts: 103
Joined: Oct 2021
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Hi 40 Coupe: In addition to what has been said on this post, you should also make sure your horn(s) are both wired internally correct. Each horn should have 2 wires coming out of it. Each wire should NOT be electrically conductive to the body or mounting bracket of the horn. You can simply check this with an ohmmeter. If either wire IS electrically conductive to the body and mounting bracket, the horn will still work but you have a horn problem that will create other weird wiring problems and potentially burn up some wiring. I base this on the horns and wiring for a 1937 car which I think is still applicable to a 1936 car wiring and horns.
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