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Discussion Topic:
Bench testing 37 radio
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BRL |
06-27-2023 @ 8:50 AM
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New Member
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Joined: Oct 2021
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Hi: My car is a 1937 model 78-750 (Phaeton) and it has a Philco F-1442 radio which I believe is correct for this car. I turn the power switch on the radio control and nothing happens so I decided to take the entire radio assembly out of the car. It comprises the receiver, control head, speaker, and drivers side running board antenna, but I am missing the glove box toggle switch. So I have it on the bench and comparing it to a picture I see on the first page of "Manual of Installation" that someone posted on this website, I note that the radio power wire to the dash fuse block was not connected. I also see that the "radio fuse" between the receiver and control head is missing. I would like to see if I can try to power up the radio on the bench. Can anyone provide me with info on what I need to do? I have a linear power supply that can provide any DC voltage but is limited to 2 amps. I also have a spare 6V car battery I could use. If anyone can provide me with a sketched hook up scheme I would be very appreciative. I also can provide images of my radio set if it helps anyone.
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MG |
06-27-2023 @ 1:58 PM
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Senior
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I'm pretty sure the '37 radio draws close to 10 amps, so you'll probably have to use a 6 volt car battery as a power source. When hooking up the battery, the positive lead will go to the radio chassis...
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carcrazy |
06-27-2023 @ 8:58 PM
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Senior
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Hi BRL, Do you have the EFV-8 Club's 1937 Ford Book? On page A-20 it shows the schematic for the Philco Auto Radio Model F-1442. This shows just about everything you need to know to get your radio to work. Even once you have everything connected properly, you may not be able to get the radio to play due to one or more burned out tubes or vibrator. Solid state vibrators are available. Be cautious about polarity when testing while using these vibrators as they are polarity sensitive and if you wire them incorrectly they will fail. Antique Electronic Supply can supply solid state vibrators and many radio vacuum tubes.
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Jacques1960 |
06-28-2023 @ 2:49 AM
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Tubes are frequently loose; be sure all are firmly in their sockets. Note that, for open cars, the antennae are under both running boards.
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BRL |
06-28-2023 @ 7:15 AM
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Hi Guys: OK, so I will use my 6V car battery to power up the radio: -6V to the wire with lug that goes to the control head and +6V (ground) to the radio receiver chassis....right? Do I need to ground the control head chassis? Yes, I have the 1937 Ford Book and see the radio info on page A-20. I have a wire that goes from the control head to the receiver and it has a bayonet style fuse holder and the fuse is missing. I dont know what the value of the fuse is supposed to be or what style of fuse it is and the info on page A-20 doesnt seem to have it...does anyone know? My first steps are to open the receiver up and take a look at everything and make sure connections are good and nothing looks broken.
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MG |
06-28-2023 @ 9:09 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1254
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No, you don't need to ground the control head... I think the wire that goes from the control head to the receiver is for a lamp in the control head, but I don't understand why it would be fused...
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Jacques1960 |
06-28-2023 @ 10:32 AM
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Negative lead to lamp in control head is not fused, only lead to radio
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zeke3 |
06-28-2023 @ 6:49 PM
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Joined: Apr 2011
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Also note that there is a small cardboard tube that fits around the fuse inside the fuse holder to prevent the fuse from short circuiting to the metal fuse holder and preventing the fuse from protecting the circuit.
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BRL |
06-29-2023 @ 7:29 AM
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Hi Guys: On closer inspection of the 37 Ford radio schematic I do see that there is a fuse (p/n 7227) and fuse insulator (p/n 27-7729). A little searching on the internet shows old 1936 and 1938 Philco parts books which confirms these are valid Philco part numbers. The fuse appears to be a 15 amp glass cartridge type. So I guess I gotta find suppliers of these antique parts. BTW, the old Philco catalogs have some toggle switches that look like the radio unauthorized use glove box switch photo I have seen on another EFV8 forum 1937 radio thread.
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BRL |
06-30-2023 @ 7:49 AM
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New Member
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Hi Guys: It appears that a modern AGC 15 fast blow glass fuse (1.25" long x .25" dia) will fit in the old Philco metal in-line fuseholder. I have cardboard fuse insulators on order from an Ebay supplier...so as soon as I get these I will try and power up the radio. I will keep you posted. BTW: there is a single-pole single-throw toggle switch in the 1936 and 1938 Philco parts catalogs that has Philco P/N 3253. The image of the toggle part of the switch looks like it may be the correct switch for the radio glove box switch. I have not tried to see if they are procurable yet.
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