| BRL | -- 06-27-2023 @ 8:50 AM |
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Hi: My car is a 1937 model 78-750 (Phaeton) and it has a Philco F-1442 radio which I believe is correct for this car. I turn the power switch on the radio control and nothing happens so I decided to take the entire radio assembly out of the car. It comprises the receiver, control head, speaker, and drivers side running board antenna, but I am missing the glove box toggle switch. So I have it on the bench and comparing it to a picture I see on the first page of "Manual of Installation" that someone posted on this website, I note that the radio power wire to the dash fuse block was not connected. I also see that the "radio fuse" between the receiver and control head is missing. I would like to see if I can try to power up the radio on the bench. Can anyone provide me with info on what I need to do? I have a linear power supply that can provide any DC voltage but is limited to 2 amps. I also have a spare 6V car battery I could use. If anyone can provide me with a sketched hook up scheme I would be very appreciative. I also can provide images of my radio set if it helps anyone.
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| MG | -- 06-27-2023 @ 1:58 PM |
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I'm pretty sure the '37 radio draws close to 10 amps, so you'll probably have to use a 6 volt car battery as a power source. When hooking up the battery, the positive lead will go to the radio chassis...
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| carcrazy | -- 06-27-2023 @ 8:58 PM |
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Hi BRL, Do you have the EFV-8 Club's 1937 Ford Book? On page A-20 it shows the schematic for the Philco Auto Radio Model F-1442. This shows just about everything you need to know to get your radio to work. Even once you have everything connected properly, you may not be able to get the radio to play due to one or more burned out tubes or vibrator. Solid state vibrators are available. Be cautious about polarity when testing while using these vibrators as they are polarity sensitive and if you wire them incorrectly they will fail. Antique Electronic Supply can supply solid state vibrators and many radio vacuum tubes.
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| Jacques1960 | -- 06-28-2023 @ 2:49 AM |
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Tubes are frequently loose; be sure all are firmly in their sockets. Note that, for open cars, the antennae are under both running boards.
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| BRL | -- 06-28-2023 @ 7:15 AM |
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Hi Guys: OK, so I will use my 6V car battery to power up the radio: -6V to the wire with lug that goes to the control head and +6V (ground) to the radio receiver chassis....right? Do I need to ground the control head chassis? Yes, I have the 1937 Ford Book and see the radio info on page A-20. I have a wire that goes from the control head to the receiver and it has a bayonet style fuse holder and the fuse is missing. I dont know what the value of the fuse is supposed to be or what style of fuse it is and the info on page A-20 doesnt seem to have it...does anyone know? My first steps are to open the receiver up and take a look at everything and make sure connections are good and nothing looks broken.
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| MG | -- 06-28-2023 @ 9:09 AM |
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No, you don't need to ground the control head... I think the wire that goes from the control head to the receiver is for a lamp in the control head, but I don't understand why it would be fused...
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| Jacques1960 | -- 06-28-2023 @ 10:32 AM |
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Negative lead to lamp in control head is not fused, only lead to radio
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| zeke3 | -- 06-28-2023 @ 6:49 PM |
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Also note that there is a small cardboard tube that fits around the fuse inside the fuse holder to prevent the fuse from short circuiting to the metal fuse holder and preventing the fuse from protecting the circuit.
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| BRL | -- 06-29-2023 @ 7:29 AM |
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Hi Guys: On closer inspection of the 37 Ford radio schematic I do see that there is a fuse (p/n 7227) and fuse insulator (p/n 27-7729). A little searching on the internet shows old 1936 and 1938 Philco parts books which confirms these are valid Philco part numbers. The fuse appears to be a 15 amp glass cartridge type. So I guess I gotta find suppliers of these antique parts. BTW, the old Philco catalogs have some toggle switches that look like the radio unauthorized use glove box switch photo I have seen on another EFV8 forum 1937 radio thread.
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| BRL | -- 06-30-2023 @ 7:49 AM |
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Hi Guys: It appears that a modern AGC 15 fast blow glass fuse (1.25" long x .25" dia) will fit in the old Philco metal in-line fuseholder. I have cardboard fuse insulators on order from an Ebay supplier...so as soon as I get these I will try and power up the radio. I will keep you posted. BTW: there is a single-pole single-throw toggle switch in the 1936 and 1938 Philco parts catalogs that has Philco P/N 3253. The image of the toggle part of the switch looks like it may be the correct switch for the radio glove box switch. I have not tried to see if they are procurable yet.
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| BRL | -- 07-13-2023 @ 10:17 AM |
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Hi Guys: So my power wires to the control head and receiver were so old that the insulation was crumbling off. I have found a supplier of the metal body in-line AGC fuse holder and have one on order. I also have the little cardboard insulation tube for the 15A AGC fuse. Since the power wires were so old I decided I better not use them for my bench test so I made my own bench test power wires using 12 AWG wire and a plastic in-line fuse holder from a local car parts shop. I soldered it all together and connected control head, receiver, speaker, and antenna all together and also made ground wires for all components. The radio turned on right away with a low hum. After about 10 seconds I started getting reception to all the local AM stations and the reception was quite good. The tone knob on the receiver also seems to work as does the volume rheostat. I forgot if the control head light worked, but if it doesnt I think that may be a matter or replacing the bulb. So, other than making new original style power wires I am going to say my radio is working properly. Does anyone know where I can get OEM style power wire for the radio? I think my falling apart wires are original and they are single conductor wire with a fabric jacket. Color is faded but appears to be brown or green with a yellow tracer. The power wire between the control head and receiver has a shield (metal overbraid) for a short length that comes out of the receiver and attached to the side of the receiver with a clip. This overbraid also has a fabric cover that is very faded and may have been brown or tan color with a yellow tracer.
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| BRL | -- 07-19-2023 @ 9:43 AM |
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Hi Guys: After a little bit of research and measuring, I have determined that the OEM (Philco) power wire to my radio is 12 AWG. I have looked everywhere on the internet to find a replacement wire but with no luck. All roads lead to Rhode Island Wiring Services. So, I am going to send them my old power wires and see if they can reproduce them for me. I also found a OEM looking SPST switch for the glove box security switch from Leeds Radio. It is not the OEM Philco switch, but looks very similar and is new with high current capacity. I will advise how this saga turns out in a few months.
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