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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 1938 Ford stalls when stopping

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Posted By Discussion Topic: 1938 Ford stalls when stopping -- page: 1 2 3 4 5

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Catfish Jones
02-08-2023 @ 11:40 AM
Member
Posts: 37
Joined: Feb 2023
          
Thanks Guys, I’m going to try these suggestions my next day off.

rustedorrotting
02-12-2023 @ 2:31 PM
New Member
Posts: 124
Joined: Mar 2010
          
no body mentioned the power valve and from my personal experience, most power valves available to day are not machined correctly and will leak. The valve screws into the carb and the new ones have a radius on the threaded shank of the valve near the sealing surface and will not seal. Charlie's Speed in Fla buys them in bulk and cuts the radius off and sells a nylon seal that works better than original. Imho. Forgot, if you backfire the engine, you blow out the diaphragm and you can take the carb apart and replace it.

This message was edited by rustedorrotting on 2-12-23 @ 2:34 PM

TomO
02-13-2023 @ 9:24 AM
Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
          
You might want to start by checking the float level. If it is too high, it might be causing flooding when you stop.

IMHO Charley Schwendler ( cas5845@yahoo.com ) does the best job of rebuilding Early Ford carburetors. If your carburetor needs rebuilding, I suggest you make the investment and have him do the job for a trouble free carburetor.

The best kits come from Daytona Parts has the best kits, but don't use their float valve. I have found them very unreliable in hot weather.

Tom

This message was edited by TomO on 2-24-23 @ 10:18 AM

Catfish Jones
02-24-2023 @ 8:24 AM
Member
Posts: 37
Joined: Feb 2023
          
Thanks so much for the input. I have emailed Mr Charley to see about getting my carburetor rebuilt. I am also thinking about getting my fuel pump rebuilt. Someone recommended Terrill Machine in Texas. Has anyone had any experience with Terrill Machine or recommend someone else?

Thanks

zeke3
02-24-2023 @ 8:58 AM
Member
Posts: 79
Joined: Apr 2011
          
I recommend having Charlie Schwendler, in New York, rebuild both the carburetor and fuel pump. As part of the rebuild, he will run them on his test engine to confirm everything is correct before returning them to you.

TomO
02-24-2023 @ 10:25 AM
Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
          
I have used Terril Machine and they did a good job on the pump. Charlie does a good job also. I would send both the fuel pump and the carb to Charlie, so that you are only dealing with one vendor.

Before you send the fuel pump off to be rebuilt, post a photo of it that shows the connections. If the pump is not Concourse correct for a 1938 Ford and you do not intend to show the car on the Concourse, a new pump may be less expensive.

It does sound like the engine is flooding out when you stop. This is usually the float is set to allow too much fuel in the bowl. Here is a quick check:
Start the car and let it idle for a few minutes to make sure the fuel level is at the max.
Remove the carburetor top
Using a 6" metal ruler, measure the fuel level. it should be 11/16" -1/16". I like to set it for 5/8" when using fuel with ethanol. Adjust by bending the tab that the needle rides on.

I doubt that your fuel pressure is too high. If it was you should have problems at idle.

Here is a link to a video of rebuilding a Ford carburetor; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V5ETIW7IViI


Tom

This message was edited by TomO on 2-24-23 @ 10:55 AM

Catfish Jones
02-24-2023 @ 12:08 PM
Member
Posts: 37
Joined: Feb 2023
          
Thanks Tom, here are two pictures of the fuel pump. I do not plan to show it on the Concourse but I do plan to keep it as original as possible.

TomO
02-27-2023 @ 9:37 AM
Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
          
It looks like you have a replacement type fuel pump. The correct pump for a 36-40 vehicle has the outlet port about 1/2" below the input port. It also looks like it is in good condition. The basic rule for enjoying a collector car is "If it aint broke, don't fix it".

Here is a photo of a correct 36-40 fuel pump.

Tom

Catfish Jones
02-27-2023 @ 4:54 PM
Member
Posts: 37
Joined: Feb 2023
          
Thanks for that information Tom.
Things may have gotten worse with the ‘38. I pulled up to my shop and it dies as normal when I braked. I forgot to turn off the ignition switch. 8 hours later I tried to crank it up. The battery was significantly discharged but would still turn over I thought sufficiently but I now have no spark. Could I have burned the coil open? Haven’t had time to troubleshoot or charge the battery.

trjford8
02-28-2023 @ 8:11 AM
Senior
Posts: 4214
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Sounds like you have "cooked" the coil.

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