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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / engine binds

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Posted By Discussion Topic: engine binds -- page: 1 2     tbirdhandyman 08-09-2010 @ 12:55 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 51 Joined: Oct 2009 Supereal: I need to let you know off-forum about research that I have done related to this discussion. Please give me contact information at fordes57@comcast.net. Thanks, Robert E. Tbirdhandyman supereal 08-06-2010 @ 10:13 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Yes, I recall that the Mopar engines, particularly Dodge and Plymouth, had problems with the tubes decaying. Back in those days, methanol was used as an antifreeze, as was salt water, etc, which likely contributed to the problem. After Ford went to the outlets on the front of the heads, we didn't hear much about overheating. TomO 08-06-2010 @ 8:13 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7253 Joined: Oct 2009 Supereal, the distributor tube system had it faults also. Many of them in the lower priced cars rusted out within a few years and they were a large pain to replace, requiring removal of the radiator and sometimes the grille. Then you had to fish out all of the pieces, because they never came out in one piece. Tom supereal 08-04-2010 @ 9:35 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Tom: I've always been surprised that Henry didn't adopt the distribution tube arrangement so common back then that conducted the cooled water from the radiator first to the back end of the engine, particularly since the exhaust was routed down thru the water jacket. A good many straight block engines used it successfully. I suspect someone had to convince him that water pumps were necessary, anyway, instead of his preferred "thermo siphon" that began with the Model T. TomO 08-04-2010 @ 8:56 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7253 Joined: Oct 2009 The lower hole was made smaller in the head gasket in order to improve cooling. The idea was that the hotter water would be at the top of the block and the cooler water would be a the outside or bottom of the block. The change was to keep the cooler water in the block longer and allow the hotter water to exit the block to the head and then to the radiator. Tom supereal 08-03-2010 @ 3:10 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Bill: The head modification info came direct from a Ford bulletin. I don't know how they came to the changes, but I assume they are to aid cooling. Circulation always was a problem in the old style heads. That is one reason they changed to the outlets on the front of the heads in '49. If you replace the rope seals, be sure to soak them for a few days in motor oil, or opt for the Kevlar type that don't need soaking. A stuck valve is an indication that the engine likely needs a full teardown. Engines that have sat for a long time usually require, and will benefit from, that work. In the process, you will learn a lot about it. Compared to the new engines, flatheads are very easy. Bill4d1merc 08-03-2010 @ 2:41 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 48 Joined: Oct 2009 Thanks for the advice Robert, I will be replacing the seals. As for the head gaskets, looking at the pictures in the catalogs the later style looks to be similar to what I removed. The top hole is 1" the middle hole is more than 1" and the bottom hole is only 1/4" on the gasket I removed. The block has a triangle-shaped hole at the top and the other 2 are 1" round holes. The head has 3/4" round holes top and bottom and 5/8" in the middle. Is there a reason the bottom hole of the gasket would be restricting the water flow? Also I discovered today that one valve is stuck open. Bill supereal 08-03-2010 @ 10:59 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 In the case of a bad leak, instead of the usual seepage around the crank seals, it can often be attributed to overfilling of the oil pan. While many books specify 5 quarts, the correct fill is 4 quarts if there is no oil filter. Synthetic or semi synthetic oils tend to leak more around the primitive rope seals due to their low surface tension. tbirdhandyman 08-03-2010 @ 10:28 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 51 Joined: Oct 2009 Hi Bill, One thing that I did not do and I should have after my engine sat idle for 10 years: I did not replace the front & rear seals. The engine had no leaks when I sold it, but after I bought it back and started driving it again, it really leaks bad, both front and rear. Now would be the time to replace yours. Regards, Tbirdhandyman Bill4d1merc 07-30-2010 @ 4:00 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 48 Joined: Oct 2009 It has 24 studs with 59AB heads haven't measured the holes but they look close to 3/4" and 5/8" Bill

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