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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 1951 Ford Custom: Startup problems

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Posted By Discussion Topic: 1951 Ford Custom: Startup problems -- page: 1 2     sarahcecelia 02-22-2021 @ 5:21 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1182 Joined: Mar 2013 Are you starting it when it is COLD out!! (like 20 -35 degrees) If so; pull the choke out fully, Pump the accelerator two times,then push the pedal bown about 1/4 -3/8inch, crank it and when it fires up, slowly ease the choke in to about 3/8 inch; then when it starts to warm up; ease the choke in! That's how to do a "Cold Start" when it is "winter cold out" , or the car has been sitting for about a week or more. Regards, Steve Lee FrankM-RG5 02-21-2021 @ 10:42 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 135 Joined: Oct 2009 90% of all carburetor problems are electrical. Jules51 02-20-2021 @ 12:40 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 58 Joined: Jul 2015 Okay guys, finally solve the problem, by luck I have to admit. While I was going through the ignition switch process I pop the distributor cap off, thought about changing the condenser and I noticed the points were open when they should be closed. Turned out they were sticking, after several attempts of starting they apparently loosen up enough to be functional. Changed out the points and life is good........ Thanks for all the input and support. Thanks Jules51 Jules51 02-19-2021 @ 10:55 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 58 Joined: Jul 2015 Ignition switch is a NOS Ford, USA made. I'm checking connections first, then the test, followed by pulling switch and clean, if all this fails I'll switch out switches. Just hate pulling that front seat out to get to the switch.......... thanks all...... Thanks Jules51 TomO 02-19-2021 @ 7:49 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7250 Joined: Oct 2009 When the ignition switch begins to fail it will not fail all of the time. The contacts in the switch may be burned or just corroded and when you operate it several times, you clean them enough to work for a while. Do NOT replace the switch unless it fails the test. You may be introducing a new problem. Tom 37RAGTOPMAN 02-19-2021 @ 6:23 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1958 Joined: Oct 2009 Jules51 is the ignition switch a original or a new repro ? I hate repro parts, always asking for problems,. as you see on this forum. time after time it is a bad repro part, causing problems, I try buying NOS FORD or NOS aftermarket, made in USA parts, will pay the extra, I had a KUBOTA B3030 tractor last month that did the same thing, once it started , I would hold the key on, but not enough to use the starter and engine kept on running, I removed the ign switch,,I used electric motive spray cleaner, really soaked the entire switch and worked the key back and forth wear gloves and let the cleaner drip into a container, and it worked just fine after that, but ordered a new switch, hope this helps 37Ragtopman Grant 02-19-2021 @ 5:50 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 535 Joined: Oct 2009 We own two 1951s. If there is a problem at the ignition switch, it might just be the connections on the back. I'm thinking that it would be a good idea to carefully clean and tighten each connection. Then try your spare switch if cleaning and tightening makes no difference. Let us know how you make out, Jules. This is an interesting problem. Another case of Henry's Revenge. . Jules51 02-18-2021 @ 2:10 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 58 Joined: Jul 2015 Wow, great feedback, would have never thought about the ignition switch. I rewired the 51 during restoration about 2 years ago, use an original style wiring harness, #1BA-14401E. I have noticed the ignition switch is harder to turn from on to the start position, thought it could be either me or the spring. I have a spare ignition switch but will do the tests mentioned. My question, just so I have a better understanding, if it is the switch, why after a few attempts I can keep it running and have no problems until it sits for hours. I would think a bad switch is a bad switch, like a light bulb, its good or bad. Thanks Jules51 37RAGTOPMAN 02-18-2021 @ 8:12 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1958 Joined: Oct 2009 jules51 VERY SIMPLE TEST TO DO, to see if it is no electric going to the coil use a jumper wire from the neg side of the battery to the neg side of the coil [ directly] another way it to use a test light on the neg side of the COIL, if it light up and engine starts, this is not the problem. but if it starts and then the engine shuts off and the light goes off you have a primary ignition problem I cannot tell you how many ignition switches I have changed when I worked in a car dealership, and my auto repair shop 37Ragtopman hope this helps, was the car rewired ? and if so how long ago,?? This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 2-19-21 @ 8:13 AM Jules51 02-17-2021 @ 3:30 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 58 Joined: Jul 2015 Well, this is the second "ignition switch" theory..... interesting.... Thanks Jules51

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