| Jules51 | -- 02-16-2021 @ 6:07 AM |
|
I've been chasing a startup issue with my 51 Ford: 8BA V-8 engine, Holley 94 AA-1 Carb; single action fuel pump; fuel tank and lines were replace during restoration. Problem start last Nov. at a car show; engine would not fire, after several attempts got it started. Thought I had a float needle sticking. Would start, run 5-7 seconds and stalls out. After about 5 attempts I could keep it running and would run great, idle and all. Problem continued. Following is a series of attempts to correct. 1st: replaced float needle, seat & gasket assembly - no change 2nd: check float bowl fuel level by draining bowl between startup attempts via plug on float bowl. Note: each drain, fuel qty was the same - did this 4 times each day while chasing problem, qty drained ~1 1/3 oz. 3rd: Rebuilt carb completely - rebuilt is good. - same problem - car starts, runs 5-7 seconds and stalls. After several attempts finally continues to run. Fuel qty drained from bowl, same. 4th: Replace carb with a spare rebuild - exact same issue. 5th: Replaced fuel pump - same issue. 6th: put original carb back on. - Same issue. Current Status: Rebuild carb, new fuel pump, fuel pump bowl; filter and fuel - clean Note: fuel stream from nozzle bar - good; float good, no pin holes. DID ALL CHECKS ON CARBURATOR - CAN NOT FIND A PROBLEM. This morning attempts: Car fire up with first attempt, ran 5-7 seconds, stalls out, after several attempts, car starts w/o stalling. Let car sit for 2 hours; fired up w/o any issuers, idles great!!!!! And yes, have 3/4 tank of fuel, running 100% gas.... Almost acts like a vapor lock or loosing prime. Fuel line cold, carb cold, even after idling. NOTE: the the 2 exhaust vents under carb stand that heats the carb are plugged. Car stays in garage in Florence SC. Any suggestions or feedback? Thanks Jules51
|
|
| cliftford | -- 02-16-2021 @ 6:25 AM |
|
Bad flex line, plugged vent in cap, plugged fuel line? Just some ideas.
|
|
| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 02-16-2021 @ 6:33 AM |
|
jules51 I would try running a jumper lead from battery to the coil and see if it still keeps on running, it might be a ignition switch issue or a loose wire, IF YOU DRIP GAS in the carb does it keep on running,? seems to me you might have the gas problem solved ? it also might be a bad condenser or loose connection, let us know how you made out, 37 Ragtopman , Maine
|
|
| TomO | -- 02-16-2021 @ 8:43 AM |
|
Your statement "Note: fuel stream from nozzle bar - good" makes me believe that your problem is not fuel related and is ignition related. The 51 Ford was the first Ford with the ignition switch start function. Your symptoms sound like a bad ignition switch. The coil receives its voltage from the starter relay when the switch is in the START position and from the ignition switch when the switch is in the ON position. You can check this out by connecting your voltmeter to the - terminal of the coil and checking it when the engine dies. You should have 6 volts there, when the ignition switch is in the ON position. You could also isolate the points by placing a piece of paper between them ( to prevent current flow heating up the coil) and then connect your meter to the input of the coil and vibrate the switch by tapping on the switch face and side while watching the meter. Let us know how you make out. If it is the ignition switch, you may have to repair it or find someone that will rebuild it. Tom
|
|
| Mr Rogers | -- 02-16-2021 @ 8:45 AM |
|
Try spraying some "instant start" into top of carb as it begins to stall. If it stalls must not be a gas feed problem.
|
|
| Old Magnet | -- 02-17-2021 @ 2:27 PM |
|
Had that same issue on my "51" back in the "60's". Was getting ready to pull engine in search of the problem. While driving and demonstrating the problem my Dad reached under the dash and jiggled the ignition switch wires. Long story short, loose connections at the switch was the cause. Never did figure how "Dad" knew that this could be the problem. Still have the "51" Convertible today. This message was edited by Old Magnet on 2-17-21 @ 2:29 PM
|
|
| Jules51 | -- 02-17-2021 @ 3:30 PM |
|
Well, this is the second "ignition switch" theory..... interesting.... Thanks Jules51
|
|
| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 02-18-2021 @ 8:12 AM |
|
jules51 VERY SIMPLE TEST TO DO, to see if it is no electric going to the coil use a jumper wire from the neg side of the battery to the neg side of the coil [ directly] another way it to use a test light on the neg side of the COIL, if it light up and engine starts, this is not the problem. but if it starts and then the engine shuts off and the light goes off you have a primary ignition problem I cannot tell you how many ignition switches I have changed when I worked in a car dealership, and my auto repair shop 37Ragtopman hope this helps, was the car rewired ? and if so how long ago,?? This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 2-19-21 @ 8:13 AM
|
|
| Jules51 | -- 02-18-2021 @ 2:10 PM |
|
Wow, great feedback, would have never thought about the ignition switch. I rewired the 51 during restoration about 2 years ago, use an original style wiring harness, #1BA-14401E. I have noticed the ignition switch is harder to turn from on to the start position, thought it could be either me or the spring. I have a spare ignition switch but will do the tests mentioned. My question, just so I have a better understanding, if it is the switch, why after a few attempts I can keep it running and have no problems until it sits for hours. I would think a bad switch is a bad switch, like a light bulb, its good or bad. Thanks Jules51
|
|
| Grant | -- 02-19-2021 @ 5:50 AM |
|
We own two 1951s. If there is a problem at the ignition switch, it might just be the connections on the back. I'm thinking that it would be a good idea to carefully clean and tighten each connection. Then try your spare switch if cleaning and tightening makes no difference. Let us know how you make out, Jules. This is an interesting problem. Another case of Henry's Revenge. .
|
|
| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 02-19-2021 @ 6:23 AM |
|
Jules51 is the ignition switch a original or a new repro ? I hate repro parts, always asking for problems,. as you see on this forum. time after time it is a bad repro part, causing problems, I try buying NOS FORD or NOS aftermarket, made in USA parts, will pay the extra, I had a KUBOTA B3030 tractor last month that did the same thing, once it started , I would hold the key on, but not enough to use the starter and engine kept on running, I removed the ign switch,,I used electric motive spray cleaner, really soaked the entire switch and worked the key back and forth wear gloves and let the cleaner drip into a container, and it worked just fine after that, but ordered a new switch, hope this helps 37Ragtopman
|
|
| TomO | -- 02-19-2021 @ 7:49 AM |
|
When the ignition switch begins to fail it will not fail all of the time. The contacts in the switch may be burned or just corroded and when you operate it several times, you clean them enough to work for a while. Do NOT replace the switch unless it fails the test. You may be introducing a new problem. Tom
|
|
| Jules51 | -- 02-19-2021 @ 10:55 AM |
|
Ignition switch is a NOS Ford, USA made. I'm checking connections first, then the test, followed by pulling switch and clean, if all this fails I'll switch out switches. Just hate pulling that front seat out to get to the switch.......... thanks all...... Thanks Jules51
|
|
| Jules51 | -- 02-20-2021 @ 12:40 PM |
|
Okay guys, finally solve the problem, by luck I have to admit. While I was going through the ignition switch process I pop the distributor cap off, thought about changing the condenser and I noticed the points were open when they should be closed. Turned out they were sticking, after several attempts of starting they apparently loosen up enough to be functional. Changed out the points and life is good........ Thanks for all the input and support. Thanks Jules51
|
|
| FrankM-RG5 | -- 02-21-2021 @ 10:42 AM |
|
90% of all carburetor problems are electrical.
|
|
| sarahcecelia | -- 02-22-2021 @ 5:21 AM |
|
Are you starting it when it is COLD out!! (like 20 -35 degrees) If so; pull the choke out fully, Pump the accelerator two times,then push the pedal bown about 1/4 -3/8inch, crank it and when it fires up, slowly ease the choke in to about 3/8 inch; then when it starts to warm up; ease the choke in! That's how to do a "Cold Start" when it is "winter cold out" , or the car has been sitting for about a week or more. Regards, Steve Lee
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=14614 |