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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 35 Convertible Sedan Door Alignment

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Posted By Discussion Topic: 35 Convertible Sedan Door Alignment

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Peter in NH
02-02-2021 @ 5:33 AM
Member
Posts: 42
Joined: Oct 2009
          
I'm slowly putting a 35 convertible sedan back together and need some help/
info concerning door alignment. Both of my back doors are considerably out
of plumb as they hit the body at the bottom before the top of the door closes
against the top of the jamb. Has anyone else encountered this problem and, if so,
what method was used to compensate for it? Any info will be greatly appreciated.


37RAGTOPMAN
02-02-2021 @ 7:22 AM
Senior
Posts: 1958
Joined: Oct 2009
          
hi
need more information,
did you tighten the body to the chassis,?
this process is trial and error , you have to go from side to side
how are the angle brackets from the quarter panels to the sub floor, not rotted out, broken or cracked ?
was new sheet metal added to the quarter panels , might be warped ?
this takes time to get it right, to get the doors to close, and line up
hope this helps, 37Ragtopman

Peter in NH
02-02-2021 @ 8:52 AM
Member
Posts: 42
Joined: Oct 2009
          
My 35 convertible sedan has had the floor replaced from the front to the rear
bottom seat kick up area.From that point backward the floor is original factory
material. Consequently the two very heavy right angle brackets that help to brace
the rear door jambs are also factory originals. My car came with a Bob Drake chassis
to body kit which I installed with all of the specified frame webbing and rubber pads.
The body is tightened to the chassis every where from front to back. An interesting
thing to note is that both front doors and the hinge side of my two rear doors hang
probably as good as I'm ever going to get them to hang. However, on the striker
side the doors hit at the bottom before becoming tight to the jamb at the top of
the opening and are open at that point by as much as 5/16". I know that, as a rule,
a certain amount of additional shimming needs to be done in various locations
but don't see how any shimming is going to affect my out of plumb problem.

35fordman
02-02-2021 @ 10:41 AM
Member
Posts: 25
Joined: Oct 2009
          
It is trial and error. As I remember when I did mine, I took all the body mounting bolts loose, got a stack of 5/16 flat washers or body shims and a prybar, and went to work. If you have someone to help you can lift the body with the prybar close to the mounting bolt, slide a shim or two while your buddy sees what effect it has on the alignment. Do that until you have a feel for what does what and where to put the shims. Then tighten everything down and see if you have to make any further adjustments. After you have done this for three or four times and lost all the skin on your knuckles, you might have good closing doors. You might want to do a search over at FB for body shimming I know there is some good info but you have to look for it.

3w2
02-02-2021 @ 5:43 PM
Senior
Posts: 835
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Peter,

All '35-'36 open cars have one thing in common and that is flimsy sill structures, unlike '32-'34 open cars, especially the '32s. Unless your body was fully braced with the doors in place before adding the bracing, distortion of the sills forward of the rear of the rear door openings and of the B pillars likely occurred when the floor was replaced. You can get there eventually with the trial and error shimming suggested above along with some hinge adjustments, but it will take time, effort. patience, and perseverance. Try and avoid shimming forward of the front door openings as that may eventually affect the fit of the hood on the cowl and to the front fenders.

Dave

Peter in NH
02-03-2021 @ 4:13 AM
Member
Posts: 42
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Thanks to all of you for your helpful hints. I've also come across some good
suggestions in the Ford Barn archives.

Peter

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