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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Brighter Taillights

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fenbach
01-31-2021 @ 8:38 PM
Member
Posts: 227
Joined: Dec 2009
          
smithcandrew1036V8 - i haven't tried LED taillights in my 6-volt '36 yet. but did blow a fuse and even melted the plastic base when i installed 7443 LED bulbs from www.superbrightleds.com in my '03 mazda MPV. they worked just fine off a 12 volt battery. i asked superbrite and was told that i "would need to use a 7443CK style bulb. Due to the way that your sockets are wired." i'm guessing some don't have an internal resistor and draw too much current.
i did install a 12-volt 3rd brake light powered by a 12 volt power pack/jump box on my '36 using a small 6-volt solenoid to engage the jump box. and i heard a fellow talk about putting a so-called boost converter in line with a 12-volt taillight to boost the voltage from 6 to 12.
i have halogen taillights now. from CandG. they are bright but draw a boatload of current. i had to run a second wire to each taillight. and i have an alternator. they look to be home-made.
and for anybody else who has too much free time on their hands, i intended to rig up a boost converter for a dashboard GPS in my '36. only to discover that solid state devices like that drop the voltage to 5 volts anyway. and work fine with 6. BUT - positive ground. i insulated my cig lighter from the dash and wired it backwards. and now i have someone telling me how to get lost.
thanks TomO for the link to the other discussion.

smithcandrew1036V8
01-31-2021 @ 12:21 PM
Member
Posts: 25
Joined: Jan 2021
          
Just thought I would update folks. Switched from super bright incandescents (which didn't work well for me for some reason), to LEDs for the taillights. Definitely brighter. I ordered both white and red LEDs because I read somewhere that the red LEDs penetrated the taillights better. Honestly, I didn't see it. The red also didn't light the license plate, and since I have blue dots, the reds would not show through the blue filter. See photos below. For the purists out there, I do have the original red glass lenses. I keep them in the car. Switched to these after a friend of my Dad shared a story about them on his '35 phaeton when he was in high-school. Plus, they do seem to shoot a little more light back and may draw attention, which is really what I am going for with the brake lights right now.

Up next for winter projects, I am going to run an extra ground to taillights, search for electrical short, try to figure out why my turn-signals stopped working, complete install of brakelighter, and seatbelts.

Bonus points to anyone able to identify the make, model, and year of the car in the foreground. Dad's, not mine. Hint (not hint), we are pretty sure it was the first car to be manufactured with heated seats.

TomO
01-20-2021 @ 8:06 AM
Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Check the wiring for worn insulation where it goes from the left side to the right side, along the frame where it is clamped, around the stop light switch and where the wires exit the light switch at the bottom of the steering column.

A dim light can be caused by low voltage to the bulb or by a poor grounding of the socket. You can use a jumper wire from a good ground like a bolt holding the fender on to the bulb socket to check the ground. You can use your voltmeter to check the voltage going to the bulb. It should be at least 6 Volts for normal brightness.

I did not use a resister in line with the LED bulbs as that would defeat the purpose of installing them. If you have turn signals and want them to flash at a normal rate with LED bulbs, buy a relay type flasher. The thermal flashers require a specific load in order to flash at the correct speed, the relay type depends upon the point gap to determine the flash rate.

One of the relay type flashers for 6 volts is Signal-stat 181 6VT Heavy Duty 3 Terminal Flasher

Tom

smithcandrew1036V8
01-19-2021 @ 2:25 PM
Member
Posts: 25
Joined: Jan 2021
          
Thanks. My turn signals stopped working around the same time. I am going to start there, and work backward. It might explain some of the weird light issues I am having with the taillights. One is much brighter than the other, regardless of how the bulbs are inserted. Makes me wonder if the dimmer side is where the short is coming from.

trjford8
01-19-2021 @ 1:20 PM
Senior
Posts: 4214
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Parking lights and tailights are on the same circuit. Sounds like you have a short in that circuit.

smithcandrew1036V8
01-18-2021 @ 12:25 PM
Member
Posts: 25
Joined: Jan 2021
          
Fenbach, let us know which ones you order and how they work. I am now dealing with a more complicated taillight issue... They managed to blow the fuse. . The first time it happened I wrote it off as a fluke. It happened again yesterday while I was messing with the taillights; when switched to parking lights I think. Hopefully that helps narrow things down. Ugh.

TomO
01-18-2021 @ 9:14 AM
Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
          
https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=13377&keywords=led

Tom

fenbach
01-17-2021 @ 11:31 AM
Member
Posts: 227
Joined: Dec 2009
          
tomo
i searched on LED bulbs and TOMO and got table lamps. can you post the website? thanks.

flathead48
01-16-2021 @ 4:59 PM
Member
Posts: 314
Joined: Dec 2009
          
I used chrome tape in side the housing and made a big difference

smithcandrew1036V8
01-16-2021 @ 10:12 AM
Member
Posts: 25
Joined: Jan 2021
          
Thanks. When you installed the LEDs did you have to put resisters on the lines?

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