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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Crack in intake manifold

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roadster36
12-27-2020 @ 9:25 PM
Member
Posts: 43
Joined: Oct 2009
          
I have been MIG,TIG and stick welding since the mid 70's. I recently had a repair on an oil soaked cast aluminm part (oil pan) I tried TIG but the oil presented a problem.
I happened to be at the welding supplier later that day and we got to talking about the job.
He suggested some of the aluminum brazing rod they sold. It is like that "Muggy Weld" rod that is all over the internet.
I bought some of it and it worked well.
It melts at a lower temp than the aluminum but it bonded well and sealed the crack.
I tested the strength and it seems to be as gpod or better than new and it is easily shaped as well.
I would V the crck out a bit and fill it up, them smooth it out.
I used my oxy/acet torch but you can also use a propane torch.

sarahcecelia
12-27-2020 @ 2:16 PM
Senior
Posts: 1183
Joined: Mar 2013
          
Carpenter Ford has used ones for $75.00

Regards, Steve Lee

pfrancis
12-20-2020 @ 10:55 PM
Member
Posts: 27
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Several years ago my aluminum intake manifold developed a 1" crack near the carb in the section where exhaust gas flows in a 35 Ford. I fixed it with J-B Weld and so far it has been successful. What do members think of this fix?

39 Ken
12-15-2020 @ 8:08 AM
Member
Posts: 380
Joined: Oct 2009
          
I wouldn't over think this problem.
I've repaired aluminum heads, manifolds
and other non-automotive items.

I use J-B Weld Steel stick. Worked great
for me on cracks in an aluminum manifold
and the repair still holds according to the
guy that has it now.

Here are the stats:
OVERVIEW
SteelStik is a hand-mixable, steel-reinforced, non-rusting epoxy putty that quickly repairs or rebuilds anything made of metal. After mixing, it forms an industrial-strength polymer compound that can be molded into shapes or used to build up, patch and repair steel components. SteelStik sets in 3-5 minutes and after 60 minutes, can be drilled, tapped, machined, ground, filed and painted. SteelStik cures to a dark grey color, is rated at a tensile strength of 900 PSI and will withstand temperatures up to 300ºF.
Sets in 3-5 minutes

Can be drilled, tapped and filed

Drinking water safe

Sandable and paintable

Ken


40cpe
12-15-2020 @ 7:27 AM
Member
Posts: 472
Joined: Jan 2010
          
I think the chamber for the exhaust crossover is under the crack. As long as you can get a gasket to seal, it should be OK as is.

Mr Rogers
12-14-2020 @ 8:35 PM
New Member
Posts: 106
Joined: Jul 2019
          
Looks like a thin something. Doesn't look like the metal manifold. Trying to look closely around the stud and throat.

budlite28
12-14-2020 @ 7:07 PM
Member
Posts: 38
Joined: Oct 2020
          
that pic is of the al. manifold without the gasket

budlite28
12-14-2020 @ 7:05 PM
Member
Posts: 38
Joined: Oct 2020
          
I am going to use the dremel & cut a grove in the crack and see how deep the crack goes. then use some Goodson intake port epoxy. It should work just fine.

51woodie
12-14-2020 @ 5:44 PM
Senior
Posts: 510
Joined: Jan 2017
          
It looks to me as if there is/are gasket/s in place. I could be wrong. What does the bare face of the carb flange look like?

woodiewagon46
12-14-2020 @ 4:01 PM
Senior
Posts: 698
Joined: Nov 2012
          
This is the way I would repair your manifold. I would first remove the studs. I would then cut a deep "V" groove from about 1/8" from each stud hole where the crack is and then TIG it up. Then, dress it flat and you should be good to go. The only issue you might run into is contamination of the aluminum. Aluminum is very porous and it must be absolutely clean to TIG weld.

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