| budlite28 | -- 12-14-2020 @ 12:54 PM |
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I have a '39 Ford deluxe coupe that I am rebuilding the carb for. When I removed the carb, I found 3 gaskets between the base and the manifold. Further inspection I found a crack in the manifold ( explains the 3 gaskets). There is a bit of a ridge at the crack. Will it present a problem or should I just replace the manifold?
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| supereal | -- 12-14-2020 @ 1:38 PM |
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Sometimes the carb/manifold gaskets were doubled or tripled to reduce heat buildup in the carb caused by the exhaust passages in the manifold. Location of the cracks are not visible in the photo. If they don't affect the operation of the engine. If they do, replacement is an option. Manifolds are hard to come by today. I bought one years ago to get the carb on it at a swap meet, and still have it if you need one. And yes, they are aluminum. We weld aluminum at our shop, but you must be certain it is a surface crack. If it extends into the intake ports, it is junk. This message was edited by supereal on 12-15-20 @ 10:17 AM
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| sarahcecelia | -- 12-14-2020 @ 1:54 PM |
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The real deal would be a good used manifold. They are some - what available. You could have it welded, or braised; but ask the welder if it will warp the manifold! (Doubtfull that it would) Is the surface where the crack is, still flat after being welded or braised?? Probably not; becuase the weld or braise will stick up a little. Braise is brass, and can be CAREFULLY FILED FLAT; WELD NEEDS THE M/C SHOP TO RE-SURFACE THAT AREA!!!! If you're not sure; after welding/ braising; take it to a machine shop to have them check it; and if it needs to be re-surfaced, the machine shop can do it. Regards, Steve Lee
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| budlite28 | -- 12-14-2020 @ 1:59 PM |
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the crack is shown in red. Is it possible to have it welded & machined ? This message was edited by budlite28 on 12-14-20 @ 2:00 PM
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| Jacques1960 | -- 12-14-2020 @ 3:14 PM |
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I’d suggest welding and decking the mating surface of the manifold. If heat is an issue for your carb set up, toss in a spacer.
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| jims33 | -- 12-14-2020 @ 3:32 PM |
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Is that an aluminum manifold? If it is, brazing is not possible. Aluminum can be welded and then machined flat - that would be a good repair. If it's cast iron, welding is not likely to work out but brazing would be ok. It needs to end up perfectly flat so that it doesn't draw air in.
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| budlite28 | -- 12-14-2020 @ 3:54 PM |
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yes it is aluminum. I'm checking around town to see if there's a shop that can weld, thanks for all your help
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| TomO | -- 12-14-2020 @ 3:56 PM |
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How much of a ridge is at the crack? If it is 1/32" or more, I would remove the studs and stone it flat. If you are concerned about the crack growing, you could drill an 1/8" hole at each end and fill wit JB Weld for aluminum. The crack does not appear to be in a place to cause a vacuum leak, so if it is less than 1/32", I would just use a good, new gasket. The thick carburetor gasket should allow the carb to sit flat. Tom
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| woodiewagon46 | -- 12-14-2020 @ 4:01 PM |
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This is the way I would repair your manifold. I would first remove the studs. I would then cut a deep "V" groove from about 1/8" from each stud hole where the crack is and then TIG it up. Then, dress it flat and you should be good to go. The only issue you might run into is contamination of the aluminum. Aluminum is very porous and it must be absolutely clean to TIG weld.
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| 51woodie | -- 12-14-2020 @ 5:44 PM |
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It looks to me as if there is/are gasket/s in place. I could be wrong. What does the bare face of the carb flange look like?
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| budlite28 | -- 12-14-2020 @ 7:05 PM |
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I am going to use the dremel & cut a grove in the crack and see how deep the crack goes. then use some Goodson intake port epoxy. It should work just fine.
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| budlite28 | -- 12-14-2020 @ 7:07 PM |
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that pic is of the al. manifold without the gasket
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| Mr Rogers | -- 12-14-2020 @ 8:35 PM |
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Looks like a thin something. Doesn't look like the metal manifold. Trying to look closely around the stud and throat.
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| 40cpe | -- 12-15-2020 @ 7:27 AM |
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I think the chamber for the exhaust crossover is under the crack. As long as you can get a gasket to seal, it should be OK as is.
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| 39 Ken | -- 12-15-2020 @ 8:08 AM |
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I wouldn't over think this problem. I've repaired aluminum heads, manifolds and other non-automotive items. I use J-B Weld Steel stick. Worked great for me on cracks in an aluminum manifold and the repair still holds according to the guy that has it now. Here are the stats: OVERVIEW SteelStik is a hand-mixable, steel-reinforced, non-rusting epoxy putty that quickly repairs or rebuilds anything made of metal. After mixing, it forms an industrial-strength polymer compound that can be molded into shapes or used to build up, patch and repair steel components. SteelStik sets in 3-5 minutes and after 60 minutes, can be drilled, tapped, machined, ground, filed and painted. SteelStik cures to a dark grey color, is rated at a tensile strength of 900 PSI and will withstand temperatures up to 300ºF. Sets in 3-5 minutes Can be drilled, tapped and filed Drinking water safe Sandable and paintable Ken
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| pfrancis | -- 12-20-2020 @ 10:55 PM |
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Several years ago my aluminum intake manifold developed a 1" crack near the carb in the section where exhaust gas flows in a 35 Ford. I fixed it with J-B Weld and so far it has been successful. What do members think of this fix?
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| sarahcecelia | -- 12-27-2020 @ 2:16 PM |
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Carpenter Ford has used ones for $75.00 Regards, Steve Lee
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| roadster36 | -- 12-27-2020 @ 9:25 PM |
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I have been MIG,TIG and stick welding since the mid 70's. I recently had a repair on an oil soaked cast aluminm part (oil pan) I tried TIG but the oil presented a problem. I happened to be at the welding supplier later that day and we got to talking about the job. He suggested some of the aluminum brazing rod they sold. It is like that "Muggy Weld" rod that is all over the internet. I bought some of it and it worked well. It melts at a lower temp than the aluminum but it bonded well and sealed the crack. I tested the strength and it seems to be as gpod or better than new and it is easily shaped as well. I would V the crck out a bit and fill it up, them smooth it out. I used my oxy/acet torch but you can also use a propane torch.
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