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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / '39 Deluxe Stalled and Won't Run

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Discussion Topic: '39 Deluxe Stalled and Won't Run -- page: 1 2

39Fordfan

11-01-2020 @ 10:53 AM

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Hello there,

I was getting the '39 ready for storage and took it out for one of its last runs of the season. I noticed a small amount of gas on both ends of the metal gas line between the fuel pump and the base of the carburetor, so I tightened each of them an 1/8 of a turn or slightly more. Then I took it out to see if that stopped the small amount of gas leakage on both ends. It worked.

However, when I got back onto my driveway the engine stalled and wouldn't start again. I thought it might be a vapor lock, but it still wouldn't start after sitting for a few hours. I was pretty sure it was the fuel pump, or had something to do with fuel. When my wife got home I looked down into the carburetor as she cranked the starter and I could see it was getting plenty of fuel.

I took a plug out and held it against the head and got no spark when she cranked it.

I'm thinking it's the coil and that my bit of tightening on the fuel line was just coincidental and had nothing to do with the stalled condition. What are your thoughts? Thanks!

PS. As an aside, when this car came out of restoration about 15 years ago it had a modern cylindrical coil set up on the fender and I never had a problem. I decided 4 years ago to put a Skip Haney remanufactured coil back on top of the distributor for originality sake. If this is indeed the coil, it will be the 3rd one in 4 years. Do you have a recommendation of where to get a well built original coil that can stand up to the heat and rigors on top of the distributor? Thanks!

This message was edited by 39Fordfan on 11-1-20 @ 10:57 AM

40 Coupe

11-02-2020 @ 4:45 AM

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If you have one of Skips coils, it is probably not the problem. I agree the problem seems coincidental to the fuel line leaks. Look for a loose wire on the ignition switch, the ignition resistor and at the coil. Having a low cost analog voltmeter is a good trouble shooting tool.

alanwoodieman

11-02-2020 @ 5:22 AM

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I will suppose that you have been using the required resistor for the coils? I would check to see if the resistor is doing its job, maybe bad/loose connections and then check the ign switch to make sure voltage is getting thru it. Since you have been replacing coils so often that is where I would look

TomO

11-02-2020 @ 7:47 AM

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The only Skip coil that I have seen die was because the ignition resister was bypassed. Check the voltage at the input to the coil. It should be around 3 volts with the points closed or around 6 volts with them open.

A bad condensor could also cause this problem.

Tom

39Fordfan

11-02-2020 @ 6:24 PM

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40 Coupe. Thank-you for your help! I apologize if it sounded like I was being nasty to Skip, that was not my intention. I didn't consider that there might be issues with the system that might be draining my coils. The only thing I was able to find was the coil wire from the solenoid by the battery was a bit loose. Everything else looked good and was fastened properly. I was able to get a replacement coil and condenser at Little Dearborn. I installed them and the car starts and runs good now. However, I am now wondering how to check the ignition resistor to make sure it its working properly? I doesn't appear to have been bypassed. Thanks!

This message was edited by 39Fordfan on 11-2-20 @ 6:40 PM

39Fordfan

11-02-2020 @ 6:29 PM

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Allenwoodieman. Thank-you for your help, that is good advice. I replaced the coil and the the condenser and the car started and runs good now. I checked all the connections and everything seemed solid. However, I am not sure how to check the Ignition Resistor to see if it is working properly? I appreciate it...

39Fordfan

11-02-2020 @ 6:34 PM

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Hi Tomo. Thank-you for your help! The only thing I was able to find was the coil wire from the solenoid by the battery was a bit loose. Everything else looked good and was fastened properly. I was able to get a replacement coil and condenser at Little Dearborn. I installed them and the car starts and runs good now. However, I am now wondering how to check the ignition resistor to make sure it its working properly and if not where to get one. I doesn't appear to have been bypassed. Thanks!

TomO

11-03-2020 @ 7:19 AM

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The check for a good resister is what I mentioned in my previous post, around 3 volts with the points closed and around 6 volts with the points open. If you have the later coil, you need around 6 volts at the input to the coil at all times.

Send the coil and condenser to Skip and have him check it out. He has the best warranty and will repair any coil that he rebuilt for free.

Tom

40 Coupe

11-03-2020 @ 11:41 AM

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Your photo of your resistor and fuse shows it to be a reproduction. I don't believe 39 Dlx used the assembly you have but what you have should work if it were assembled properly, which it is not. Is the assembly attached to your firewall or is it just loose?

RAK402

11-03-2020 @ 1:37 PM

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It sounds like you found the issue with the coil and condenser, but some of the reproduction ignition resistors can be evil!

I had a repro ignition resistor that drove me crazy-I drove it for months with no problems, then suddenly, the car would stall, then not restart, then it would be ok again and run for a while, then it would fail again.

The repro resistor was intermittent-someone at a local antique Ford parts place found me an original and it has been in the car for over 18 years now.

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