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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / '39 Deluxe Stalled and Won't Run

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Discussion Topic: '39 Deluxe Stalled and Won't Run -- page: 1 2

TomO

11-05-2020 @ 7:55 AM

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Include the condenser with your coil shipment, then he can check both out.

Tom

39Fordfan

11-04-2020 @ 11:15 AM

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RAK402. Thank-you so much for your response! I'll look into finding an original resistor. That's a good tip. THANKS!

39Fordfan

11-04-2020 @ 11:13 AM

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Hi Tomo. I thought that's what you meant. I'm getting the proper voltage at the coil input. Maybe I have a gremlin in the resistor? Someone else suggested it is a reproduction. I'll look into that too.

I am in the process of sending Skip the coil.

Thanks!

39Fordfan

11-04-2020 @ 11:09 AM

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Thank-you for your response 40 Coupe. The resistor assembly is attached properly to the firewall. That is interesting that the assembly is not what I should have - a reproduction.
Can you please explain what is not assembled properly about it? And how I can correct it? I don't know these cars well enough to know the difference. If you have a picture or diagram that would be helpful too. Thanks!

RAK402

11-03-2020 @ 1:37 PM

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It sounds like you found the issue with the coil and condenser, but some of the reproduction ignition resistors can be evil!

I had a repro ignition resistor that drove me crazy-I drove it for months with no problems, then suddenly, the car would stall, then not restart, then it would be ok again and run for a while, then it would fail again.

The repro resistor was intermittent-someone at a local antique Ford parts place found me an original and it has been in the car for over 18 years now.

40 Coupe

11-03-2020 @ 11:41 AM

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Your photo of your resistor and fuse shows it to be a reproduction. I don't believe 39 Dlx used the assembly you have but what you have should work if it were assembled properly, which it is not. Is the assembly attached to your firewall or is it just loose?

TomO

11-03-2020 @ 7:19 AM

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The check for a good resister is what I mentioned in my previous post, around 3 volts with the points closed and around 6 volts with the points open. If you have the later coil, you need around 6 volts at the input to the coil at all times.

Send the coil and condenser to Skip and have him check it out. He has the best warranty and will repair any coil that he rebuilt for free.

Tom

39Fordfan

11-02-2020 @ 6:34 PM

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Hi Tomo. Thank-you for your help! The only thing I was able to find was the coil wire from the solenoid by the battery was a bit loose. Everything else looked good and was fastened properly. I was able to get a replacement coil and condenser at Little Dearborn. I installed them and the car starts and runs good now. However, I am now wondering how to check the ignition resistor to make sure it its working properly and if not where to get one. I doesn't appear to have been bypassed. Thanks!

39Fordfan

11-02-2020 @ 6:29 PM

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Allenwoodieman. Thank-you for your help, that is good advice. I replaced the coil and the the condenser and the car started and runs good now. I checked all the connections and everything seemed solid. However, I am not sure how to check the Ignition Resistor to see if it is working properly? I appreciate it...

39Fordfan

11-02-2020 @ 6:24 PM

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40 Coupe. Thank-you for your help! I apologize if it sounded like I was being nasty to Skip, that was not my intention. I didn't consider that there might be issues with the system that might be draining my coils. The only thing I was able to find was the coil wire from the solenoid by the battery was a bit loose. Everything else looked good and was fastened properly. I was able to get a replacement coil and condenser at Little Dearborn. I installed them and the car starts and runs good now. However, I am now wondering how to check the ignition resistor to make sure it its working properly? I doesn't appear to have been bypassed. Thanks!

This message was edited by 39Fordfan on 11-2-20 @ 6:40 PM

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