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Discussion Topic:
Best SAE 40 Oil for V8's
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Ketronj281989 |
08-11-2020 @ 10:23 AM
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New Member
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Joined: Jul 2020
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My 1936 car reference book states between an operating range of 100-30 F the viscosity number should be SAE40. I want to stick with stock lubricants and wanted to ask: What is the best brand SAE 40 on the market right now for these early V-8's? To my knowledge, my engine has never been rebuilt or taken apart. Also, I would imagine this would be ND oil (non detergent) correct? Don't think they had detergent oil back then? Thanks for the help, Jon
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ken ct. |
08-11-2020 @ 11:25 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1513
Joined: Jan 2010
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Why would you want to use 80 yr. old tecnolagy. Use Valvoline 20-50 detergent oil, OMO ken ct
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1934 Ford |
08-11-2020 @ 11:51 AM
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20-50 detergent oil is good advice. Any modern 20-50 detergent oil is better than anyting they had in the 30"s. It's thin enough to start easily in cold weather and thick enough to leak less and drip smaller puddles, all while doing a better job of lubrication. 1934 Ford's since 1972
This message was edited by 1934 Ford on 8-15-20 @ 9:58 AM
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Ketronj281989 |
08-11-2020 @ 3:47 PM
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Would a detergent multi-grade oil be better for an older engine rated for a non-detergent mono-grade oil? Forgive me, I am young and still very new with old motors. I don't know what kind of oil has been in this 1936 V8 engine prior to my purchase and fear a build-up of sludge is currently present. This motor has never been taken apart, has never had it's oil pan off. I thought it would be best to stick with the non-detergent mono-grade oil until I am able to drop the pan and clean out the sludge this coming winter. From what I have read dropping the pan on a 1935-1936 year car is quite a job and sounds very time consuming, a good winter project I have on schedule for this winter season. If I were to go to a detergent multi-grade oil now before inspecting the inside of the pan, could this potentially cause the sludge to dislodge (due to the detergent properties) and clog the engine? Further fears arise as this engine does not have an oil filter installed. I would think running a multi-grade oil with this current unknown could possibly thin the oil and dislodge or spread the sludge throughout the engine? Jon
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carcrazy |
08-11-2020 @ 9:55 PM
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One thing you can try to get the sludge and crud out of an old engine is to drain out the old oil. Fill the engine up to the full mark on the dipstick with kerosene and run the engine for five minutes or until the oil pressure gauge just goes down to zero. Turn off the engine and drain out the kerosene. Fill the engine with fresh oil. This is a trick a couple of old tractor mechanics told me about. I have never tried it. Use this tip at your own risk. You might not want to use an oil with a viscosity of less than SAE 30 as the engine will leak more oil. If you use a straight SAE 30 Detergent oil with an API rating of SN or later, use a cam break-in additive to protect your camshaft lobes (including the one for the fuel pump) and the tappets.
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mfirth |
08-12-2020 @ 4:42 AM
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I did the kerosene thing back in the 60s blending 1 qt of 20 wt in the mix. It surely drained out BLACK, but i don't think it helped that much. Be very alert to engine temp. & don't wait for zero oil pressure.
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51504bat |
08-12-2020 @ 7:25 AM
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Non-detergent motor oil isn't available in California, don't know about other states. I've run 20/50 detergent in every flathead I've owned both old tired ones and the current newly rebuilt 8ba in my '39 p/u.
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TomO |
08-12-2020 @ 7:28 AM
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The detergents in the modern oils usually do not loosen chunks of sludge that will clog the oil passages in a flathead. Most oils today have some detergents, so finding an oil without them would be difficult. 20W-40 oil is like cold 20W oil when cold and like 40 oil when the engine is at operating temp. Sludge buildup occurs when the engine is not operated long enough to evaporate the water from the unburned fuel.
Tom
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JayChicago |
08-12-2020 @ 8:46 AM
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Jon When I got my ‘40 I had the same concern as you regarding oil and dislodging of sludge. (original engine, previous owner had put only 305 miles on the odometer in 27 years of ownership) I followed TomO’s and others’ advise to just start using modern oil. There were no problems.
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kirkstad |
08-12-2020 @ 12:59 PM
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Jon. I have been using valvoline SAE 40 in my 36 I get from Napa, but it is a detergent oil. I have since switched to Valvoline 20w-50 because of the recommendation of other club members. I believe TomO is correct because when I removed my pan to replace my oil pump with a later helical gear pump, there was a fair amount of sludge present. My engine has never been rebuilt,it is a little tired, but suits me fine. For peace of mind you should consider removing the pan at some point to clean it out, along with the oil pump pick up screen.I have the 32-36 engine and chassis book and it goes into great detail on removing the pan. I see Dennis Carpenter and C&G still list it under (V-13),Or I would be glad to mail you a copy of the page. It would be a good winter project. Frank
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