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Posted By Discussion Topic: 39 Deluxe timing issues -- page: 1 2 3     Dan39Deluxe 06-24-2020 @ 12:01 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 13 Joined: Jun 2020 I recently bought my first antique car, a 1939 Ford Deluxe fordoor. It was not running when bought, I don't know how long it's been since it ran. I dont know what's wrong with it. I got it backfiring out of the carb and occasionally out of the exhaust, but have yet to get it to run. I bought the 39-40 Ford Engine & Chassis repair manual. In it, towards the back, is a diagram with all the wiring and firing order. When I pull the firing order up online I find one for 37-41. But it's different than the one in my book. The one in the book I was getting constant backfire on every stroke. When I set the plug wires to the firing order from the one listed online I'm getting no backfire and it still won't fire up. By the way the spark on every plug is nice strong and blue. I know the car is a 39 because of the body. The engine is 24 studs. It has a big letter A stamped on the middle of each cylinder head and Ford written down below. The only VIN number I've found so far is on the top of the bellhousing and it's a 1937 vin number. The distributor is helmet style. Any tips? 37RAGTOPMAN 06-24-2020 @ 12:17 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1963 Joined: Oct 2009 hi TO START. take a compression test to see if it has Compression on all cylinders, 125lbs and more, you might have stuck or sticking valves from sitting, you can use a little rust buster in each cylinder and see if things get better, and use MARVEL MYSTERY OIL in the FUEL once you get it running, being you get backfiring your distributor is turning, ruling out bad timing gear, but my be someone installed them incorrectly,? does it look like engine had work done to it,like had the timing cover removed ? hope this helps 37Ragtopman can you post photos of the engine ? Dan39Deluxe 06-24-2020 @ 12:38 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 13 Joined: Jun 2020 compression is about 55-65 on all cylinders. I looked down in the plug holes and can't see any cracks or anything off looking. I put about 2 tablespoons of oil down the plug holes but havn't checked compression again after doing that. Also something weird I'm running into is the timing plate on the distributor. When I tighten that bolt down it tightens the spinning mechanism up that goes into the cam so tight I can't even move it with my fingers. When I back the timing plate bolt off it frees right up. Is that normal? This message was edited by Dan39Deluxe on 6-24-20 @ 12:41 PM 40 Coupe 06-24-2020 @ 1:33 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1679 Joined: Oct 2009 Both what you found on the web and in the book are correct. Do not be confused on where you put the spark plug wires with a firing order. The book diagram is showing the distributor caps sideways and the web is showing the caps as viewed. Install the plug wires into the two distributor caps as described in the web diagram. If you tighten the timing adjustment screw and the distributor no longer can rotate there may be additional problems in the distributor. If you have both intake and exhaust backfire I suggest you lube the valve stems with Marvel Mystery oil. Engines that sit for a long time can often have sticking valves. Also add some MMO to the gas tank. Instructions are on the MMO bottle. This message was edited by 40 Coupe on 6-24-20 @ 1:38 PM 37RAGTOPMAN 06-24-2020 @ 1:40 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1963 Joined: Oct 2009 hi Dan as you install the distributor, grab the rotor and turn it as you push the distributor into place, lining up the slot in the cam to the drive edge on the back of dist,AS it falls into place, it should lock into place. if you mark it where the slot is and the dist drive is pointing, it should be close, IT ONLY GOES IN ONE WAY,,,, when it is IN it should not turn except when the engine turns over, you can crank the engine and watch the rotor and see if it rotates, DO NOT FORCE it in, could break the DIST Lets hear how you made out, 37Ragtopman Maine also add a little oil down the carburetor with plugs out and rotate the engine, to get some oil on the valve stems Dan39Deluxe 06-24-2020 @ 2:14 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 13 Joined: Jun 2020 Thanks ya I'll def try that with the oil down the carb. I've had the distrib on and off several times I know about the fitment only one way already. Dan39Deluxe 06-24-2020 @ 3:14 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 13 Joined: Jun 2020 @40 Coupe thanks I will def try those tips, still not sure about that timing screw issue. I was told by prev owner this distributor was sent off somewhere for rebuild. When I first got it apart the points were all loose, the screws hadn't been tightened. Can't even figure out why its doing it but when I tighten that timing screw, the rotor locks up tighter than a turd. edit: I tried pouring some oil down the carb, I put the plugs back to the online diagram, still backfiring out of both ends but mostly out the carb. This message was edited by Dan39Deluxe on 6-24-20 @ 4:51 PM carcrazy 06-24-2020 @ 7:43 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1674 Joined: Oct 2009 Be sure you have the firing order correct, it is 1-5-4-8-6-3-7-2. If the fuel/air mixture is too lean or the ignition is advanced too far the engine will backfire out of the carburetor. If the ignition timing is too retarded the engine will backfire out of the exhaust. If you have an obstruction in the exhaust system the engine may backfire out of the carburetor before the engine stalls. 37RAGTOPMAN 06-25-2020 @ 6:08 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1963 Joined: Oct 2009 hi Dan looking at the photos looks like the inner dist cap are dirty, any cracks, or carbon tracks, were the spark could be jumping ? also check the rotor for cracks, once the distributor is in the block and seated the rotor should not turn, maybe rock back and forth,with minute play,? I think the timing screw it too long ? causing the dist plate to lock up ? could be ? this is the one on the right side of distributor ? you say you have blue spark, so I assume the condenser and coil are ok even the points, and be sure to check your firing order is correct, and recheck the inner distributor plates, has the corresponding numbers to match to the ignition wires, they should be color coded RED BLUE YELLOW GREEN ,,,,RHODE ISLAND wiring has VERY nice ones, make sure your fuel supply is ok, many times I used a outboard gas tank to make sure I had enough fuel, this eliminates the gas tank ,lines ect,in the car , for the time being till things get running hope this helps, 37Ragtopman I also run a temporary wire from the battery to the coil, with a resister, or even with out just to get it running for few minutes, so the ignition switch and wiring is eliminated, This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 6-25-20 @ 8:19 AM TomO 06-25-2020 @ 7:41 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7256 Joined: Oct 2009 The timing is set by the point gap. Set the points to .015" and the timing mark in the center. This will be enough to get the engine running. The points should be set on a distributor machine by a competent operator. The fact that tightening the timing screw locks up the rotor, means the distributor is not assembled correctly. You can remove the working part 0f the distributor by removing the vacuum brake and timing screw, then pushing the works out of the body. There is a spring wire (snap ring) that keeps the point plate in place. When it is properly installed, the plate can move slightly to adjust the timing. There are 2 cutouts in the base casting, one for the vacuum brake and one for the timing screw. The larger one is for the vacuum brake. I usually have the ends of the snap ring in the larger opening. Tom

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