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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 6V to 12V conversion

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Posted By Discussion Topic: 6V to 12V conversion -- page: 1 2 3 4     TomO 01-14-2020 @ 8:02 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7256 Joined: Oct 2009 If you have a reproduction or original wiring harness, the wire going to the fuse panel should be the hot lead for the ignition switch, moving it to the switched side would make your ignition hot all of the time and you would not be able to shut off the ignition. The wiring diagram shows the wire going to the cutout should be at the hot side of the fuse panel so that it is hot all of the time. I am not sure of what you are measuring with your voltmeter hookup, but my best guess is that it is the resistance of your meter leads and meter. You probably have some current flowing or the meter would read 0 V. If your meter has a 10 amp scale, you can connect it like you did for the voltage test and read the current flowing. Pull the fuse if you have a current reading. If it goes away the short is in the light circuit, if it does not remove the hot wire at the cutout. If it goes away, the cutout is bad. If it doesn't go away, disconnect the wires at the hot side of the fuse one at a time until you find the circuit that is bad. http://vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/FH_images/FH_electrical-pics/Flathead_Electrical_wiring1936.jpg 6 / 12 volt test lights are priced under $10 at many sources or you could make your own with a light socket by attaching a hot wire to the bulb contact and the grounding wire to the bulb socket. Tom hotroddoc 01-13-2020 @ 1:59 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 23 Joined: Mar 2019 Thanks for your input. I don't have a test light handy but when I hooked up my voltmeter in the manner you described, the reading starts out at 1.6V and settles down to 0.25V. There are an additional two wires connected to to live side of the ignition switch. One goes to a fuse panel and the other to the voltage regulator. when I removed them, the voltmeter read 0.0V. Reconnecting only the voltage regulator wire, the reading is 0.03V Reconnecting only the fuse panel wire, The reading is 0.25V Should I move the two wires to the switched side of the ignition switch or just the fuse panel wire Gary This message was edited by hotroddoc on 1-13-20 @ 4:48 PM 37RAGTOPMAN 01-05-2020 @ 8:42 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1962 Joined: Oct 2009 if you have a drain now, you will most likely have a fire with 12 volts, disconnect the ground cable on battery post, put a test light from the post to ground, and see if it lights, if it does start ,,,checking for lights on, like STOP LIGHTS, glove box, clock, starter switch,etc you have to start eliminate them one at a time, till the light goes out, if you have mechanical brakes check the brake light switch, I had a MODEL A that did the same thing and found out it was the starer switch, made contact but not enough to make that starter turn, hope this helps 1937RAGTOPMAN This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 1-5-20 @ 8:49 AM TomO 01-04-2020 @ 8:00 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7256 Joined: Oct 2009 Switch the grounded side, which should be the POS cable. If you have a drain, it should be located and fixed. Depending on what is causing the drain, it could start a fire. Connect a test light between the NEG cable and the battery post. If there is a drain, the light will glow. If the light glows, pull the fuse, this will eliminate all of the lights as a source. Tom hotroddoc 01-04-2020 @ 5:47 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 23 Joined: Mar 2019 I think that there is a drain on the battery. When the battery is fully charged,the engine turns over pretty good. I am in the process of installing a battery cut off switch. Would it be better to have the positive ground wire run through the switch or connect the negative wire to the switch? I had two 3-0 cables made. Thanks 37RAGTOPMAN 01-02-2020 @ 9:18 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1962 Joined: Oct 2009 hi 6volt to 12 volt ? I think this is bad thing to do. these cars have been used for 80 years using 6 volts. this might be a WAY Easier and cheaper way to go, JUST list the things you have to change to do this, ignition coil, is the first, fuel gauge, sending unit plus MUCH MORE I would remove the starter and check in what condition it is in,.brushes, dirty com, post loose " and more, CERTIFIED AUTO ELECTRIC in OHIO can rebuild yours with a high torque fields, and include a new old stock bendix, I just had one done,,,, also a overlooked item is the ground cable from the engine to ground,this is part of the system, do you have headers on the engine, these can also cause starter problems.,because of the heat. my 2 cents 1937Ragtopman sarahcecelia 11-30-2019 @ 1:32 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1193 Joined: Mar 2013 MY 1940 V8 STARTS ALMOST INSTANTLY WITH 6 VOLTS, WHEN WARM OR HOT WITH MY FOOT OFF THRE ACCELEATOR PEDAL!! QUICKLY WHEN COLD AFTER SITTING FOR A FEW DAYS; I PUSH THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL TWICE TO PRIME THE INTAKE MANIFOLD, PULL THE CHOKE OUT ABOUT 1/3, AND IT STARTS RIGHT UP; THEN I EASE THE CHOKE IN A LITTLE TO ABOUT 1/4 FOR ABOUT 45 SECONDS, AND THE PUSH IT OFF. 6 VOLTS WORKS VERY WELL WHEN ALL IS IN ORDER!! Regards, Steve Lee TomO 11-29-2019 @ 8:45 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7256 Joined: Oct 2009 Just watch the ammeter. It should show a reading in the positive direction when the engine speed is about 20 mph, then turn on the head lights, the ammeter should not show a discharge. If you have the stock generator with a cutout, you can adjust the 3rd brush to increase the charging rate. You can check for a drain on the battery by connecting a test light between the battery post and the battery cable. If the light comes on, you have a drain. Check the brake lights, parking lights and dome light, if they are not on, use the wiring diagram as a guide to start disconnecting wires until the test light does not work any more. Tom hotroddoc 11-29-2019 @ 11:01 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 23 Joined: Mar 2019 After running all of the tests, I appears that the battery was low. After a charge, It is cranking OK . Now I need to determine why is the battery draining and not charging while running the car. Any suggestions on how I can test the generator? Gary TomO 11-18-2019 @ 8:35 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7256 Joined: Oct 2009 Starter: Com to Negative battery post and Pos to the starter terminal = 0.86 V You have high resistance in the starter circuit. Move the POS lead to the battery cable side of the starter switch and repeat the test. The reading should be 0.1 or less. If it is higher, check the cable for corrosion, clean the battery post and cable. Repeat the test, if you still have the high reading, replace the cable. Next move the POS lead to the starter side of the starter switch and repeat the test. The reading should be 0.2 V or less. If it is higher, you can see if you can clean the switch contacts or replace the switch. Next repeat the original connection and test. If the reading is above 0.2 V, replace the cable Ground Circuit Resistance: Pos lead to Pos battery terminal. Com to Grounding Bolt of starter 0.70 V Pos lead to Pos battery terminal. com to Grounding strap 0.62 V You have very high resistance in the grounding circuit. Your grounding strap may not be the correct gauge, too long, corroded or not making good contact with the frame. Order the correct grounding strap from a quality supplier. Repeat the test after replacing the cable. the starter switch looks like a reproduction. One Puzzling observation: When I hook up the voltmeter to test starter test, the voltmeter registers 5.68 V before I depress the starter button. You will read battery voltage until the starter is activated. This is a normal reading. Your reading is lower than normal, proba bly because the grounding circuit has high resistance. Tom

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