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Discussion Topic:
'37 woodgrain details
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39 Ken |
06-01-2010 @ 2:50 PM
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Member
Posts: 380
Joined: Oct 2009
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Last one. I haven't figured how to do multible pics on this site. Ken
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39 Ken |
06-01-2010 @ 2:48 PM
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Member
Posts: 380
Joined: Oct 2009
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Another.
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39 Ken |
06-01-2010 @ 2:48 PM
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Member
Posts: 380
Joined: Oct 2009
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Parrish, Here are a couple of the window garnish. Not great pictures but you'll get the idea. Ken
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parrish |
05-30-2010 @ 8:30 PM
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Member
Posts: 349
Joined: Oct 2009
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Thanks everyone...39 Ken: I saved both pictures as that is one beautiful dash! I've had a few 39s and always wanted a really nice dash, so I may bite the bullet and pay the price. I like to do my own work, so that's why I asked about the roll-on kits and the imprint plates. I'm going to do a 36 as well and thought I might use the same straight grain plate with a different base color and grain to save some $$$. Do you happen to have a photo of the window garnish where the grain lines change direction (90 degrees) to simulate a two piece assembly?
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39 Ken |
05-29-2010 @ 5:52 PM
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Member
Posts: 380
Joined: Oct 2009
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Here is another. Hopefully, you can see how the wood joints simulating the change of grain direction is perfectly reproduced. Ken
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39 Ken |
05-29-2010 @ 5:49 PM
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Member
Posts: 380
Joined: Oct 2009
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Parrish, I'm with you on doing the woodgraining as the Ford factory did it. Here is my '39 dash that was done using the factory method. Ken
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supereal |
05-29-2010 @ 9:11 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Be sure to match your base color to the original before you remove it. I used enamel "hobby paint" from a craft store and mixed it until it was a close match. I agree with TomO's suggestion regarding clear coat. I used the "satin" variety of polyurethane for the seal coat on my pieces. Like most new attempts, by the time you are finished, it always seems that it might be better, but sometimes you have to settle for "it's as good as it got". I was careful to use cup washers under the mounting screws to protect the paint, which takes a long time to really harden.
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TomO |
05-29-2010 @ 8:34 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7263
Joined: Oct 2009
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Parrish, I did my own woodgrain using gel stains over a base coat. It took quite a bit of time to do just the strips around the windows. I practiced on a piece of sheet steel bought at the hardware store. I found that you need a graining comb and a flogging brush to get any semblance of grain. You will also need several artists brushes of different sizes and a couple of fan brushes of different sizes. For the price of the GrainIt kit, you can get your dash done professionally. Here is a link to a site that has a good process that brings the cost down to a more affordable price. Their results are very good, but ask them to put deglosser in the clear coat, so it doesn't look plastic. http://mmcustomfinishing.com/Site/Home.html
Tom
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parrish |
05-28-2010 @ 8:22 PM
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Member
Posts: 349
Joined: Oct 2009
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thanks. I saved the pages and I'll see if I can make it work. Biggest issue would be the accuracy of the base color. I need to do a 39 and a 36. The 39 has everything hod rod blue from 1959 with nothing left of the original woodgrain. The rear ash tray in tudors and fordors was always a good source for mint woodgrain, but mine is a coupe! My 36 is an early 36, but I'm going to give it the late 36 walnut woodgrain. I'll keep moving forward.
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supereal |
05-28-2010 @ 8:19 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Now, let's try for page 2.
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