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Discussion Topic:
Winter storage
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Zero |
11-27-2018 @ 6:12 AM
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Member
Posts: 60
Joined: Jul 2018
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It's winter in the Midwest and this is the first time storing my 37. My garage is unheated but I insulated the walls which should help a little. Antifreeze is good to 35 below. Should I put the car up on jack stands and run it occasionally with an exhaust hose out the door? Should I remove the tires or leave them on? Battery out of the car and then back in when I want to start it? Always appreciative of your suggestions. John Z.
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juergen |
11-27-2018 @ 6:32 AM
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Member
Posts: 258
Joined: Jan 2010
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Every one has a different opinion. Most of the people in our Iowa car club just let the cars hibernate from December to March. I don't like starting them without getting the engine hot as the rich choked fuel does not get cleaned out. My 6 volt batteries usually last 6 years as the battery is still charged in the spring. On a car with a working clock (battery drain) I would remove the battery or install a battery tender.
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TomO |
11-27-2018 @ 7:44 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7256
Joined: Oct 2009
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As Juergan said, running a car without taking it on a long drive is not good for the engine. Fuel produced some water vapor that condenses in the oil galleys and this makes sludge. You are much better off leaving the engine off until you can drive the car. Raising the car prevents flat spotting the tires, which is not a big problem with the current tire construction. If you support the car with jack stands under the frame, it will allow the suspension to relax, but the best reason to raise the car is to prevent rodents from living in the car. That would also be my only reason for removing the tires during storage. You should disconnect the battery any time that you are not going to use the car. I have a disconnect switch on my Lincoln,because the battery is under the floor. On my Mercury, I just remove the grounding cable. I leave the batteries in both cars for the winter. I connect a battery tender to the battery and use it one day a month, to maintain full charge on the batteries. I don't like to leave electrical appliances operate when I cannot monitor them. To keep the rodents out of my garage, I buy small bottles of ammonia and p;ace a piece of cotton rope in each of them, to act as a wick. I place them near the door and around the car. The odor keeps the critters away from the garage. The fumes cause a burning sensation in their nostrils. I have sealed all openings with coarse steel wool backed up by expanding foam, except the roof vents and that has 1/4" chicken wire backed up by galvanized screening to keep out the critters.
Tom
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nelsb01 |
11-27-2018 @ 1:41 PM
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Senior
Posts: 983
Joined: Oct 2009
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Here's the reply from the frozen north. Yes to raising the car up. Cold concrete and rubber give you a great thump in the spring if you don't. Rodents -- for added protection, put renuzit "after the rain" in the car --- smells great and in the spring you won't notice it, but the critters hate it. I had a friend put decon in the car..............don't do that. It draws the critters in. Then, don't forget about the gas. I highly recommend Yamaha Yamalube fuel stabilizer --- all those people with boats and jet-skis swear by it -- and I have never had a bad start in the spring. It costs more at the boat store, but worth it. The snow is gone here by May 1. (maybe) The -35 for anti-freeze is OK. Pull the battery and keep it someplace safe. I set my electronic calendar to remind me to connect my battery tender every 6 weeks for 24 hours. If you think that is too much, I got 9 years out of my last 6 volt. Of course, you did change the oil before the winter sleep..................... There are other opinions -- but this is what works for me.
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MG |
11-27-2018 @ 2:51 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1260
Joined: Nov 2009
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Why not drive your car during the winter? When I lived in Minnesota, I didn't let the winter conditions prevent me from driving my '34. I never considered prepping my car for storage. I just made sure the antifreeze and oil were up to snuff. - This, just as the people who owned these cars did back in the 1930's winter months. If the streets are clear of ice and snow, 30+ degrees below zero should not deter you from driving your car. The streets are not always clogged with ice and snow during the winter. These cars were designed and engineered to be driven year round. Why deny yourself the joy of driving you baby? I always looked forward to driving my '34 during the winter months. Storage is hard on a car, especially starting it after a long period of inactivity. If you don't drive them they will go to h*ll on you much faster....
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TonyM |
11-27-2018 @ 7:12 PM
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Member
Posts: 458
Joined: Sep 2010
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MG, I drive my 1937 Ford during the winter months as long as there is no snow, ice or other adverse conditions. Here is my 1937 Ford on Super Bowl Sunday a few years ago (Chicago / Northwest Indiana region).
. . . 78-730B
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MG |
11-27-2018 @ 9:03 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1260
Joined: Nov 2009
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Tony....I love the looks of '37 Fordor Slantbacks!
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mfirth |
11-28-2018 @ 4:28 AM
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Member
Posts: 208
Joined: Nov 2017
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Tony, i too love your 37. Nice nice car !
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ken ct. |
11-28-2018 @ 5:30 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1513
Joined: Jan 2010
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Looks good Tony, drove my 36 in winter also as long as no salt on roads. They were not ment to be sunny day cars. ken ct.
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c-gor |
11-28-2018 @ 8:53 AM
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New Member
Posts: 130
Joined: Oct 2009
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Tom Life in Northern Ohio is also cold. My vehicles are all in one garage that is reserved for them only. To combat moisture, i purchase 12-15 disposal aluminum "turkey size" pans . I fill each one with about 3/4" - 1" of Calcium Chloride. This is a desiccant that absorbs any moisture in the garage. after about 2 months the calcium chloride turns to liquid after soaking up any moisture. I dump this and add more Calcium Chloride to the pans. When I open the garage in spring, no moisture on the vehicles.
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