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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Grounding Connections on a '46 Deluxe

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Discussion Topic: Grounding Connections on a '46 Deluxe

TomO

11-29-2018 @ 9:09 AM

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All of the electrical devices in our cars also have separate grounds at the device. This is how you power devices with one wire.

The grounding needs of the devices in our cars is not the same as modern cars with their solid state electronic circuits that control the engine and other systems in the car.

Tom

Drbrown

11-28-2018 @ 7:00 PM

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I purchased a non-concourse '47. It has an alternator and separate relays on the head and fog lights and so the lights are feed directly from the battery and stay steadily bright. It worthy to note that most modern cars run separate ground wires to every device.

supereal

11-27-2018 @ 10:49 AM

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I always install a battery cable with two "eye" ends from the ground strap connection at the firewall, and one of the starter mounting bolts. This helps the starter, and connects the rest of the vehicle to a solid ground. As to the lights and connections, I agree that the "bullet" connectors are often a problem. We make sure the ends of the connection are clean and bright, a slightly crimp the sleeve to assure contact. Repro connectors are usually poor quality, and putting a piece of heat shrink over the connection will prevent it from working loose. On my '47 the headlights were dim. Most of the power was lost in the maze between the battery, light switch, dimmer switch, and the bulb socket. I made a relay board using two starter solenoids and operate then from a position on the left side inner fender by inserting the connections between the original circuits and the headlight. It now has lights bright, or better than new, and operates with the original switches.

JayChicago

11-27-2018 @ 4:46 AM

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Woodie
I recalled that TomO gave advise a few months ago to someone with dim headlights. Real simple fix, when it works. Here's what the professor said:

"Try operating the dimmer switch many times and then try your head lights. The dimmer switch does not get used much and the contacts corrode, preventing the lights from working. Operating the switch cleans the contacts and your lights will work again. If that doesn't work, come back for a trouble shooting plan to isolate the problem, using a voltmeter."

11-26-2018 @ 7:09 PM

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As Tom has indicated, I vote for the bullet connectors as being your problem. I had to soldered those connectors to the wires in my '37 to alleviate the same problem you're having. How's your horn working? ....

TomO

11-26-2018 @ 5:36 PM

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There was no ground cable to the frame when your car left the factory. All electrical connections are either to the bod or the engine.

The most likely source of low voltage to the headlights is the dimmer switch, next in line is the light switch followed by the bullet connectors.

Tom

51woodie

11-26-2018 @ 3:51 PM

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Doing some troubleshooting for low voltage to the headlights, and can't find a body to frame ground. The braided + bat cable goes to the firewall, and another braided cable goes from the firewall to the engine. Is there a body to frame connection, if so, where is it?

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