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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 1937 windshield water leak

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MG
08-09-2018 @ 3:40 PM
Senior
Posts: 1262
Joined: Nov 2009
          
Good for you, Mike! Thanks for reporting back with the results. Let's hope it hold up....

mzahorik
08-09-2018 @ 3:35 PM
Member
Posts: 209
Joined: Nov 2009
          
Well.... today we had a good rain. A week or so ago I installed some thin foam weatherstrip in the windshield channel. And what do you know no leak! I got the weatherstrip in the channel so that with the windshield closed you can not see it. This should keep my floor from rotting out, or at least delay it a bunch. The car lives outside. Thanks for the help.

mzahorik
07-13-2018 @ 3:36 PM
Member
Posts: 209
Joined: Nov 2009
          
Geezzz..... you know I think I have some of that left over from when I redid the top on my Model T. SOunds like a plan. THanks Mike.

hannaboy@pacbell.net
07-13-2018 @ 8:58 AM
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Posts: 21
Joined: Sep 2017
          
For several years I had a 1944 Chevy 1 1/2 ton military truck.. the windshield fully extended open to ninety degrees (horizontal).. to stop any leaks at the top of the windshield frame, I just used weatherstrip tape, the kind that sticks to the metal with 3M sticky side down.. never had leaks after that.. no matter how many times I opened or closed the windshield.. unless your car is some super concourse, just add that.. it comes in various thickness to meet your needs... but alas, the purist in all of us says "no way"

WALT

mzahorik
07-13-2018 @ 8:17 AM
Member
Posts: 209
Joined: Nov 2009
          
Thanks, I think I'll try the RTV solution, but standing the car on end is also an interesting idea. Now how could I....... Mike

nelsb01
07-12-2018 @ 9:00 PM
Senior
Posts: 984
Joined: Oct 2009
          
I have a nice Rouge Ford without the crank out windshield. Over the years of driving it, I finally got tired of my knees getting wet every time it was driven in the rain. I used masking tape and created a border around the windshield and back window glass. I then thinly spread this Permatex black rubber over the windshield and rear window gasket. Let it dry for a couple of hours and then removed the masking tape. It looks like I have installed a new window gasket without doing that. While this solution is not exactly what you are looking for, it may help with the frame vs window issue that has been talked about.
As for lining up the frame with gasket in the opening, I have been trying to get my 1936 Pickup windshield frame (and new gasket) to fit correctly in the cab opening - so I understand your frustration and many hours. I truly believe that to get the windshields installed correctly originally, they stood the bodies on end so that they could exert all the pressure they needed downward. The force of gravity makes fitting the windshield frame in the body very frustrating when doing it vertically.

Good luck............

MG
07-12-2018 @ 3:38 PM
Senior
Posts: 1262
Joined: Nov 2009
          
Remember, water is natures best penetrant. When you're driving down the road in the rain, water will find a way to seep into those "couple thickness's of a piece of paper" gaps. If you can't get the glass to fit into the frame better you might want to consider using some clear or black RTV in that area....

This message was edited by MG on 7-13-18 @ 10:53 AM

mzahorik
07-12-2018 @ 2:57 PM
Member
Posts: 209
Joined: Nov 2009
          
Yup! A auto glass shop set the glass. After I adjusted the frame the gap you see in the pictures was reduced to a couple thickness's of a piece of paper. So the amount of body movement is only a couple 10's of thousands. Mike

MG
07-12-2018 @ 2:35 PM
Senior
Posts: 1262
Joined: Nov 2009
          
Am I correct in assuming you did use glass setting tape? > https://www.amazon.com/CRL-Sealstrip-Glass-Setting-Tape/dp/B004CNR6OO

Setting tape is made in various thicknesses....

I think that you're going to have to do more messaging/bending on your windshield frame to make it fit the glass as opposed to the cars body....

This message was edited by MG on 7-12-18 @ 2:41 PM

mzahorik
07-12-2018 @ 7:46 AM
Member
Posts: 209
Joined: Nov 2009
          
Yes, that is the trouble area. After some adjustment I got a good seal at most places on the top except there. So, I tried to bump out the body a little. The gap was about two thickness's of a piece of paper. I improved it but there still is an inch or so of gap. I was playing with some electric tape to see if I could thicken the body a little at that spot to stop the leak. I was thinking maybe some thick paint or a little bed liner in the channel might improve the seal. Mike

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