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mzahorik
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-- 07-08-2018 @ 12:58 PM
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I have been chasing a leak at the top center of my 1937 four door Ford. I replaced the rubber a few years ago and it seals all the way around except at the middle top. It looks like the windshield is a little low. Can I make an adjustment by moving the upper hinges somehow so that the windshield and seal can be moved up so as to make a better seal? Thanks Mike
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trjford8
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-- 07-09-2018 @ 6:41 AM
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You can adjust the windshield up and down, but that may not solve the problem. I suspect when you installed the new rubber you may have not completely cleaned the channel where the rubber is retained. A small piece of old rubber in the channel may be causing the new gasket to wrinkle and causing your leak. Also you need to make sure the corner drains in the body are clean and the rubber hoses attached to those drains and properly routed into the cowl panels.
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mzahorik
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-- 07-09-2018 @ 8:58 AM
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Thanks for the reply. I had the frame completely cleaned and painted (powder coated actually). I think the seal is in correctly, it doesn't look wrinkled. The body channel was cleaned and painted. The corner drains were opened and the hoses replaced. I know the leak is at the top center. I have sat in the car during a rain storm and witnessed the water dripping from the upper moldings.
When the windshield is closed, the seal at the top fits into the channel. Should the seal contact the roof line and seal there? Thanks Mike
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40cpe
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-- 07-09-2018 @ 11:22 AM
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I don't know whose seal you are using, but I installed a new Dennis Carpenter seal a few years ago in my '38. I finally got good results by loosening all the hinge screws then jiggling/wiggling the frame until it was square in the body opening. Then tighten the screws without moving the frame any more than necessary. My seal has a flat surface that seals the frame to the inside of the body opening. That flat surface has a lip on the inner edge. On my installation the flat portion with the lip wouldn't go in the bottom of opening if the frame was too low.
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mzahorik
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-- 07-09-2018 @ 12:38 PM
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That is interesting. My seal is from Carpenter. Looking a little closer, I see that the bottom part of the seal overlaps the body proper while the at the top the seal drops into the window channel. I am wondering if this new seal has a smaller lip than the old one? Looks like if I could move the windshield up maybe 1/8" to a 1/4" the seal would over lap the top and just touch at the bottom. I think this may be a better seal. I try your idea of loosening the hardware and trying to push up on the windshield. Then see what happens, thanks, Mike
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mzahorik
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-- 07-09-2018 @ 3:17 PM
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Well..... I successfully busted off a couple of the screws holding the windshield hinges in place. But that aside, with both of the top hinges removed, I placed the windshield in it's hole so that the seal at the roof line overlaps the roof, instead of falling into the channel. This looks like this is correct. BUT, I think the windshield is frame needs to be bent a little. The center of the frame does not fit to the body as the rest of it does. So... something has to be done here. AND, with the windshield in this position, the upper hinges can not be raised enough to hold the windshield in this position. I need another 1/4" of up room. So my question now is does the windshield seal overlap onto the roof line? Mike
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40cpe
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-- 07-09-2018 @ 6:58 PM
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If I understand your question, the flat part of the seal with the lip on it should go INSIDE the windshield opening all around and seal against the inside of the opening. I'm sure the external lip that touches the body plays a part, too, but on my car it is not consistent enough to be a good seal.
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mzahorik
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-- 07-10-2018 @ 7:06 AM
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Here is a couple of pictures. In these pictures, I have the upper hinges removed and the windshield seal is against the roof line, not in channel. This seems correct to me, but the hinges are a long way from fitting to windshield. Even with all the adjustment on the hinges and mounting plate moved out. This leads my to believe that the seal does fit inside the channel, that seems to the only way the upper hinges will mate to the windshield and close right. I need to see another car. Mike
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mzahorik
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-- 07-10-2018 @ 7:06 AM
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Here's another picture.
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40cpe
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-- 07-10-2018 @ 10:21 AM
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Here is my take on it: Adjust your hinges so the top of the gasket will just barely close into the top of the body opening with the windshield in the out position. I would initially put some rubber lubricant around the gasket to help it slide into the opening. With the top of the gasket snug against the opening at the top and centered side-to-side, the regulator should pull the bottom into the opening. As mentioned above, having the channel that the lip fits into perfectly clean is critical. You might have to get creative and fashion some tools to clean it thoroughly.
It takes a lot of trial and error to figure it out, then when you are done you forget how you did it. 
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mzahorik
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-- 07-10-2018 @ 1:53 PM
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Tried what you suggested and it seems to work. Although there is a point were as I close the windshield the upper hinges do not pull the top in. This point is about 3/4 closed. But.... If, at this point I push the top in, by hand, then continue to close the seal is good except for about an inch or so on the top passenger side. I tested the seal with a piece of paper. The part the doesn't seal will allow the paper to pass between the seal and body. I think that maybe I can bump out the body a little to make up that small amount. Have to wait for a while the car is in full sun and it's hot. I'll do some more fussing later. The leak crack is much better and maybe with a little more work I can stop it up all together. Thanks a million. Mike
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40cpe
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-- 07-10-2018 @ 2:52 PM
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I'm glad you were able to work it out. If you close the windshield tight and set it in the sun, the seal might get better.
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mzahorik
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-- 07-10-2018 @ 4:08 PM
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I still have to repair the two broken machine screws I twisted off. It's all part of the adventure. Mike
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trjford8
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-- 07-11-2018 @ 7:34 AM
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I see you have a roof mount antenna. Make sure the rubber seal on the antenna is in good shape and the antenna has pulled down tight against the seal. It's another potential leak.
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mzahorik
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-- 07-11-2018 @ 4:10 PM
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Thanks. That was a previous battle. Mike
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MG
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-- 07-11-2018 @ 7:15 PM
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Looking at the pictures you posted, it doesn't look as though the glass fits snugly in the frame toward the center....
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mzahorik
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-- 07-12-2018 @ 7:46 AM
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Yes, that is the trouble area. After some adjustment I got a good seal at most places on the top except there. So, I tried to bump out the body a little. The gap was about two thickness's of a piece of paper. I improved it but there still is an inch or so of gap. I was playing with some electric tape to see if I could thicken the body a little at that spot to stop the leak. I was thinking maybe some thick paint or a little bed liner in the channel might improve the seal. Mike
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MG
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-- 07-12-2018 @ 2:35 PM
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Am I correct in assuming you did use glass setting tape? > https://www.amazon.com/CRL-Sealstrip-Glass-Setting-Tape/dp/B004CNR6OO
Setting tape is made in various thicknesses....
I think that you're going to have to do more messaging/bending on your windshield frame to make it fit the glass as opposed to the cars body....
This message was edited by MG on 7-12-18 @ 2:41 PM
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mzahorik
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-- 07-12-2018 @ 2:57 PM
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Yup! A auto glass shop set the glass. After I adjusted the frame the gap you see in the pictures was reduced to a couple thickness's of a piece of paper. So the amount of body movement is only a couple 10's of thousands. Mike
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MG
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-- 07-12-2018 @ 3:38 PM
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Remember, water is natures best penetrant. When you're driving down the road in the rain, water will find a way to seep into those "couple thickness's of a piece of paper" gaps. If you can't get the glass to fit into the frame better you might want to consider using some clear or black RTV in that area....
This message was edited by MG on 7-13-18 @ 10:53 AM
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nelsb01
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-- 07-12-2018 @ 9:00 PM
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I have a nice Rouge Ford without the crank out windshield. Over the years of driving it, I finally got tired of my knees getting wet every time it was driven in the rain. I used masking tape and created a border around the windshield and back window glass. I then thinly spread this Permatex black rubber over the windshield and rear window gasket. Let it dry for a couple of hours and then removed the masking tape. It looks like I have installed a new window gasket without doing that. While this solution is not exactly what you are looking for, it may help with the frame vs window issue that has been talked about.
As for lining up the frame with gasket in the opening, I have been trying to get my 1936 Pickup windshield frame (and new gasket) to fit correctly in the cab opening - so I understand your frustration and many hours. I truly believe that to get the windshields installed correctly originally, they stood the bodies on end so that they could exert all the pressure they needed downward. The force of gravity makes fitting the windshield frame in the body very frustrating when doing it vertically.
Good luck............
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mzahorik
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-- 07-13-2018 @ 8:17 AM
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Thanks, I think I'll try the RTV solution, but standing the car on end is also an interesting idea. Now how could I....... Mike
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hannaboy@pacbell.net
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-- 07-13-2018 @ 8:58 AM
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For several years I had a 1944 Chevy 1 1/2 ton military truck.. the windshield fully extended open to ninety degrees (horizontal).. to stop any leaks at the top of the windshield frame, I just used weatherstrip tape, the kind that sticks to the metal with 3M sticky side down.. never had leaks after that.. no matter how many times I opened or closed the windshield.. unless your car is some super concourse, just add that.. it comes in various thickness to meet your needs... but alas, the purist in all of us says "no way"
WALT
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mzahorik
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-- 07-13-2018 @ 3:36 PM
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Geezzz..... you know I think I have some of that left over from when I redid the top on my Model T. SOunds like a plan. THanks Mike.
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mzahorik
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-- 08-09-2018 @ 3:35 PM
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Well.... today we had a good rain. A week or so ago I installed some thin foam weatherstrip in the windshield channel. And what do you know no leak! I got the weatherstrip in the channel so that with the windshield closed you can not see it. This should keep my floor from rotting out, or at least delay it a bunch. The car lives outside. Thanks for the help.
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MG
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-- 08-09-2018 @ 3:40 PM
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Good for you, Mike! Thanks for reporting back with the results. Let's hope it hold up....
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