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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / runs hot at a light or in traffic

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Posted By Discussion Topic: runs hot at a light or in traffic -- page: 1 2 3     37RAGTOPMAN 06-10-2010 @ 5:19 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1958 Joined: Oct 2009 the thing with SKIP'S overflow valve, is that if you cannot find a cap, you can use the valve for a pressure system, my 37 did not have a pressure system, at least the cap seems it did not have a valve with a spring built into it,was just a cap with a gasket, the way it is know is much better, what ever works for you, if you are running hot , it might have lost a certain amount of coolant,be sure to fill up when at operating temperture,fairly warm-hot, and drive it and see if you loose any,and see where it comes out of, all the modern cars have a overflow coolant tank,this way the coolant stays at maxuim level and no air enters,its pretty much the same with SKIPS VALVE, except no tank, He swears by them, give him a call, he might be able to suggest something to help your engine run cooler, hope this helps 37RAGTOPMAN KEEP ON TRUCKIN,,,!!!!!!! TomO 06-10-2010 @ 1:43 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7250 Joined: Oct 2009 Tev, use a candy thermometer to check your engine temperature before you replace any parts. If it is between 160 1nd 190, this is in the normal range. Does your car run hot when going down the highway or just when you get in traffic? Try running without thermostats and using water with a rust inhibitor added. A good radiator shop will not rod out a radiator that has loose fins as they know that you are going to be back with a complaint. A new radiator for your 37 is not available, you will have to have yours re-cored. Have the shop use a core with fin spacing similar to the original and the same number of tubes. Tom supereal 06-10-2010 @ 10:23 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 You don't need Skip's valve on a pressurized system. If the coolant is being forced out, either the cap or radiator neck is faulty, or you have an internal engine problem. A properly operating thermostat will not cause overheating. We use the 160 degree type. They aid engine warmup, reducing sludge formation in lightly driven cars. You can see new radiators on page 106 of the C&G online catalog. www.cgfordparts.com The 8BA is the least expensive at $460 for a good 4 row unit. Most old radiators have fins that have shaken loose from the tubes, and no amount or boiling or rodding will restore them. That is one reason why radiator shops have largely disappeared. 37RAGTOPMAN 06-10-2010 @ 9:12 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1958 Joined: Oct 2009 Also SKIP sells a pressure valve that fits over the overflow pipe, this keep the coolant from escaping and overflowing, I installed one on my 37, and just begining to use, but do not have to add to the radiator,, and you can fill a little higher, SEEMS TO WORKING, I always lost coolant if I was driving high speeds, also noted the early 33 34 35 36 37 FORD V8'S had 1 gallon less coolant then the 39 DELUXE to 48 FORDS, I read this is one of my manuals also aways check [ TEST ] your parts before replacing, ESPECIALLY if made in CHINA,I do not have much faith in them,I always look for original parts,and if not working rebuild them, the thermostats on 1949 1950 1951 1952 1953 FORDS are the same as the EARLY JEEPS, from 1971 down on the 4 cylinder F HEADS, if you need to find a set,this is another source for parts,also the oil pressure switch is very similar, check it out,,,, KEEP ON TRUCKIN,,,,,,,, 37 RAGTOPMAN don1950ford 06-10-2010 @ 7:34 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 6 Joined: Oct 2009 tev, thermostats are there to warm the motor up quicker and giving it a minium operating tempature by reducing water flow whan the motor is cold and opening to allow flow when the operating temp is reached. thermostats do not do much to cool a motor. best bet is to get radiator cleaned by rodding and while it is out of the car do the best you can to flush as much cr*p (rust, scale & sand) out of the block useing high flow water going top to bottom and then bottom to top to loosten and dislobge and flush out as much as possable. i would start with no thermostats after things are clean and see how it runs before installing any stats.. don Johns46coupe 06-09-2010 @ 9:19 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 68 Joined: Apr 2010 I agree with the pros on this. Find the real cause and fix it. I went through senders, radiator boiling, pumps, etc before I found my real problem, NEW thermostats that weren't opening, proven on my kitchen stove (sorry honey). Running without stats, new Drake pumps, and cleaned radiator and all is well. I suggest first, pinpoint the cause and repair or replace. And don't overfill the radiator. Two or three inches below the neck works for me with no spillage and no more overheating. Hope this helps, John Tev 06-09-2010 @ 6:14 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 24 Joined: Nov 2009 Don, Thanks very much for that info and the recommendation. I always thought it was rotted out and wondered what that meant. Also, some sites sell high and low temp thermostats - which to use? don1950ford 06-09-2010 @ 5:34 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 6 Joined: Oct 2009 Trev, in san antonio tx Lone Star Radiator. Basse rd near San Pedro. term is rodded out as they remove uppre and lower tank and run rods through the tubes to scr*pe and knock loose acumuliated hardened deposits clogging radiator. they have done several roddings and recored several for me. done nice custon work also. no complaints only good words for their work. don in san antonio This message was edited by don1950ford on 6-9-10 @ 5:37 PM Tev 06-09-2010 @ 5:32 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 24 Joined: Nov 2009 Thanks Supereal, I can search vendors, but any preference on a vendor for a new radiator? supereal 06-09-2010 @ 8:38 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 The new style pumps have double sealed ball bearings allowing a tighter belt. When Ford went to the bearing style pumps in '49, it was common for them to cause trouble when the coolant entered the bearings. Now, the sealed bearings should reduce or eliminate that problem. The generator requires about 5HP when under load, so good belt contact is necessary, and being able to increase belt tension should help both cooling and charging, particularly as belts age.

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