| 46fordnut | -- 05-07-2010 @ 8:16 PM |
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h*llo iv'e been working some small issues maybe you may know more then me. can someone give me an idea why after 1/2 hour ride my car would run very hot if i stop at a traffic light . and then if i move it takes a long time when i'm driving to cool back off. i thought it might be the thermostate took them out still has same problem. (temp gauge goes all the way to the "H"). car seems to run fine no water comming out of over flow tube when this happens . i do have a newer rad cap and hoses and engine coolant. the car is a 1946 ford with a 239 v8 flathead 24 stud. belts are tight and are only 1 year old.
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| ford38v8 | -- 05-07-2010 @ 9:39 PM |
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46, your problem is not uncommon at all. Flathead Fords have always pushed the envelope on cooling capacity. While stopped at a light, not enough air is going through your radiator to properly cool the water, as the fan can't pull enough without the aid of the head-on wind. There are several things you can do to ensure that you have maximum cooling efficiency: Remove your radiator to an old style radiator shop, to have it boiled out, and a flow test done. They will then advise if it requires a rod-out. You'll then have a radiator in top shape. You can remove the thermostats, and install high flow water pumps, available both from Bob Drake and from Skip Haney. I'd go with the Haney pumps, myself. Alan
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| 46fordnut | -- 05-08-2010 @ 3:48 AM |
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what do you think of putting a 6v eletric fan whats called a "push" type. do you think this may work too?
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| tbloss | -- 05-08-2010 @ 8:20 AM |
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46fordnut: Good advice above about checking your radiator. I drive my cars a lot in mostly 90++ weather--2 46's & a 35. Have never needed a fan using Skips Pumps. Tom B
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| supereal | -- 05-08-2010 @ 8:28 AM |
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The problem with electric fans is that they draw a large amount of current, particularly at 6 volts. Good ones require a relay and a thermostatic switch. They can get pricey. I agree with the others regarding the radiator. I still run old style pumps on my '47, which couldn't get out of the driveway without heating when I bought it. I invested in a new radiator, and have never had a problem since. It is pricey, to be sure, but the only practical solution since good radiator shops have largely disappeared. Even then, repaired radiators were never as effective as replacement, often because the fins had loosened from the tubes over time from vibration.
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| 51f1 | -- 05-08-2010 @ 2:23 PM |
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If your cooling system is up to snuff, you shouldn't overheat. Have your radiator cleaned, and remove your water pumps, and make sure the impellers are o.k. Look inside your hoses and replace any that may be deteriorated and impeding flow. Put the thermostats back in, and make sure the belts are tight enough. Check the ignition timing. If that doesn't do it, there must be a problem inside your block that is impeding water flow. Clean the water jacket. You may have to remove your heads and check the water passages. When these engines were built, they cooled o.k., not great, but they cooled. Find out what is wrong and fix it. You don't need extra fans and fancy water pumps. Richard
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| carguy | -- 05-08-2010 @ 2:46 PM |
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Not the same problem but, possibly, related. I drained my '34, including the block petcocks, and refilled with new antifreeze. I found that I couldn't get the cooling system to accept the specified amount of coolant. Then I drove it, it didn't overheat but after driving for about 10-15 minutes I had coolant coming out of the radiator overflow. I don't think it overheated. Could it be that the coolant just expanded enough to push out excess fluid? Or something even more troubling?
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| shogun1940 | -- 05-08-2010 @ 6:14 PM |
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if your not loosing water, check the temp with infared heat gun or a kitchen thermometer. there is a product called water weter that helps transfer heat, also make sure your antifreeze is 50/50 and not more concentrated, it will cause over heating ,try these before condeming the pumps, radiator, reverse flush the radiator and see if you get a good flow , goodluck
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| trjford8 | -- 05-09-2010 @ 8:10 AM |
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I agree with shogun1940, check the temp with a meat thermometer or infared unit before making a lot of changes. You may have a temp gauge that is not functioning properly.
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 05-09-2010 @ 8:57 AM |
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get a mechanical temp gauge, install it one of the head outlets,see what it reads,run the engine and compare the 2 reading, I am with trjford on this make sure what exactly is your problem, you might just need new temp senders,or a gauge. KEEP ON TRUCKIN 37RAGTOPMAN
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| supereal | -- 05-09-2010 @ 9:39 AM |
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Most antifreeze coolants expand more than plain water, and some, such as Sierra, require a greater concentration than ethylene glycol for the same amount of protection, and expand more. If you top off the radiator tank when cold, the coolant will expand when the engine gets to operating temperature, and it is not unusual, to lose some from the overflow when the pressure exceeds the rating of the cap. If you have a problem with overflow, allow the coolant to seek its own level. If there are no underlying problems, such as a leaky head gasket, the cooling will not be impaired. Also, some systems can form air pockets when fully drained, and should be monitored for level after refilling. One problem area can be the heater, which may need to "burp" trapped air. In any case, try a new radiator cap before you decide to tear into the engine. We find many with faulty overflow valves. These caps are often damaged if a head gasket has failed at some time.
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| TomO | -- 05-09-2010 @ 5:48 PM |
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Carguy, some expansion of the coolant is to be expected. In a non pressurized system, this will go out the overflow. If the car does not overheat, you should do nothing but watch the level of coolant. If more coolant come out as you continue to drive the car, check for foaming of the antifreeze or combustion chamber leaks. Tom
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| Tev | -- 06-08-2010 @ 1:37 PM |
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My 37's temp gauge indicates its running hot after 15 minutes on the road as well. Radiator looks like it may need to be rotted out. Any recommendations in the central Texas area?
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| supereal | -- 06-08-2010 @ 2:25 PM |
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There are two essential, but somewhat pricey, things almost every old vehicle needs: A new radiator on the front, and a replacement fuel tank in the back. Boiling and rodding old radiators is mostly a waste of money, and by the time you recore one, you have as much cost as a good quality replacement. Old gas tanks contain rust, in almost every case, as the "tern" (tin and lead) coating is long gone, and old evaporated gas has formed a substance that defies any chemical removal. Having an old car that you can't trust takes away most of the fun of the hobby.
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| johnpoly | -- 06-08-2010 @ 2:47 PM |
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Caution - tight belts are not a good thing. There should be about 1/2" of slack in the belt when pushed by your finger. TIGHT means water pump bearings going south.
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| supereal | -- 06-09-2010 @ 8:38 AM |
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The new style pumps have double sealed ball bearings allowing a tighter belt. When Ford went to the bearing style pumps in '49, it was common for them to cause trouble when the coolant entered the bearings. Now, the sealed bearings should reduce or eliminate that problem. The generator requires about 5HP when under load, so good belt contact is necessary, and being able to increase belt tension should help both cooling and charging, particularly as belts age.
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| Tev | -- 06-09-2010 @ 5:32 PM |
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Thanks Supereal, I can search vendors, but any preference on a vendor for a new radiator?
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| don1950ford | -- 06-09-2010 @ 5:34 PM |
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Trev, in san antonio tx Lone Star Radiator. Basse rd near San Pedro. term is rodded out as they remove uppre and lower tank and run rods through the tubes to scr*pe and knock loose acumuliated hardened deposits clogging radiator. they have done several roddings and recored several for me. done nice custon work also. no complaints only good words for their work. don in san antonio This message was edited by don1950ford on 6-9-10 @ 5:37 PM
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| Tev | -- 06-09-2010 @ 6:14 PM |
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Don, Thanks very much for that info and the recommendation. I always thought it was rotted out and wondered what that meant. Also, some sites sell high and low temp thermostats - which to use?
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| Johns46coupe | -- 06-09-2010 @ 9:19 PM |
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I agree with the pros on this. Find the real cause and fix it. I went through senders, radiator boiling, pumps, etc before I found my real problem, NEW thermostats that weren't opening, proven on my kitchen stove (sorry honey). Running without stats, new Drake pumps, and cleaned radiator and all is well. I suggest first, pinpoint the cause and repair or replace. And don't overfill the radiator. Two or three inches below the neck works for me with no spillage and no more overheating. Hope this helps, John
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| don1950ford | -- 06-10-2010 @ 7:34 AM |
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tev, thermostats are there to warm the motor up quicker and giving it a minium operating tempature by reducing water flow whan the motor is cold and opening to allow flow when the operating temp is reached. thermostats do not do much to cool a motor. best bet is to get radiator cleaned by rodding and while it is out of the car do the best you can to flush as much cr*p (rust, scale & sand) out of the block useing high flow water going top to bottom and then bottom to top to loosten and dislobge and flush out as much as possable. i would start with no thermostats after things are clean and see how it runs before installing any stats.. don
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 06-10-2010 @ 9:12 AM |
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Also SKIP sells a pressure valve that fits over the overflow pipe, this keep the coolant from escaping and overflowing, I installed one on my 37, and just begining to use, but do not have to add to the radiator,, and you can fill a little higher, SEEMS TO WORKING, I always lost coolant if I was driving high speeds, also noted the early 33 34 35 36 37 FORD V8'S had 1 gallon less coolant then the 39 DELUXE to 48 FORDS, I read this is one of my manuals also aways check [ TEST ] your parts before replacing, ESPECIALLY if made in CHINA,I do not have much faith in them,I always look for original parts,and if not working rebuild them, the thermostats on 1949 1950 1951 1952 1953 FORDS are the same as the EARLY JEEPS, from 1971 down on the 4 cylinder F HEADS, if you need to find a set,this is another source for parts,also the oil pressure switch is very similar, check it out,,,, KEEP ON TRUCKIN,,,,,,,, 37 RAGTOPMAN
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| supereal | -- 06-10-2010 @ 10:23 AM |
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You don't need Skip's valve on a pressurized system. If the coolant is being forced out, either the cap or radiator neck is faulty, or you have an internal engine problem. A properly operating thermostat will not cause overheating. We use the 160 degree type. They aid engine warmup, reducing sludge formation in lightly driven cars. You can see new radiators on page 106 of the C&G online catalog. www.cgfordparts.com The 8BA is the least expensive at $460 for a good 4 row unit. Most old radiators have fins that have shaken loose from the tubes, and no amount or boiling or rodding will restore them. That is one reason why radiator shops have largely disappeared.
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| TomO | -- 06-10-2010 @ 1:43 PM |
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Tev, use a candy thermometer to check your engine temperature before you replace any parts. If it is between 160 1nd 190, this is in the normal range. Does your car run hot when going down the highway or just when you get in traffic? Try running without thermostats and using water with a rust inhibitor added. A good radiator shop will not rod out a radiator that has loose fins as they know that you are going to be back with a complaint. A new radiator for your 37 is not available, you will have to have yours re-cored. Have the shop use a core with fin spacing similar to the original and the same number of tubes. Tom
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 06-10-2010 @ 5:19 PM |
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the thing with SKIP'S overflow valve, is that if you cannot find a cap, you can use the valve for a pressure system, my 37 did not have a pressure system, at least the cap seems it did not have a valve with a spring built into it,was just a cap with a gasket, the way it is know is much better, what ever works for you, if you are running hot , it might have lost a certain amount of coolant,be sure to fill up when at operating temperture,fairly warm-hot, and drive it and see if you loose any,and see where it comes out of, all the modern cars have a overflow coolant tank,this way the coolant stays at maxuim level and no air enters,its pretty much the same with SKIPS VALVE, except no tank, He swears by them, give him a call, he might be able to suggest something to help your engine run cooler, hope this helps 37RAGTOPMAN KEEP ON TRUCKIN,,,!!!!!!!
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