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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 39 PickUp engine stops while driving.

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Posted By Discussion Topic: 39 PickUp engine stops while driving. -- page: 1 2     Jere 06-20-2018 @ 9:16 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 6 Joined: Jun 2018 Hi guys n' gals! I have a completely restored 1939 pickup here in Finland. I didn't do the restoration my self, so my knowledge on this car is not as wide as it should. The problem is that when I go out for a drive, I can get as far as around 6-8 miles and the engine stalls and stops. After, I just pump the gas pedal and push the start button. While starting I keep on pumping the gas and at the same time I pull on the choke and I get the engine running, but just barely. After I get it run just so and so, I have to do tricks with gas pedal and the choke at the same time and it runs for a half a mile or a mile and does it again. Fuel pump rod is in accurate length, it moves the accurate amount up and down, there's no leaks anywhere and the glass cup doesn't collect anything, nor does an extra filter in the rubber line before the cars own pump. Cars own pump works all fine too. I swapped the original air filter to a K&N, since the original oil bath filter has few bangs here and there and I'm not really shure if it works the way it should. Everything is rebuilt or new. ...help... MG 06-20-2018 @ 9:22 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1261 Joined: Nov 2009 The symptoms are similar to a coil breaking down from heat.... cliftford 06-20-2018 @ 1:01 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 845 Joined: Jan 2014 What you describe sounds more like fuel starvation than an ignition problem, but I could be wrong. Plugged gas line or plugged vent in cap? Try running it without the cap on. If no difference, check flex for air leaks, if none, try blowing out the gas line. Of course, remove cap first. This message was edited by cliftford on 6-20-18 @ 1:59 PM 4dFordSC 06-20-2018 @ 3:40 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 266 Joined: Oct 2009 Have you tried changing the extra filter? Jere 06-21-2018 @ 2:58 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 6 Joined: Jun 2018 Ok, I forgot to mention that I ran the car without the fuel cap, no difference. I'll try to change the extra filter next week and see what it does, if nothing. Coil problem. Ahmm. That's interesting, but plausible. I guess I have to order a new coil and see what it does. Pain is merely an emotion 40 Coupe 06-21-2018 @ 3:39 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1679 Joined: Oct 2009 Usually if the coil or the ignition condenser are going bad, it is heat that brings the problem to the front. If you have the problem again, try to let the engine cool down and see if it will restart and run properly and then the problem repeats after again warming up. If the engine runs good cold then change the ignition condenser to a new one, first. Be aware that many of the new condensers offered by automotive parts stores are very inferior manufacture. Not sure if you have a NAPA Auto parts store in your area but they offer one for the 37-41 Ford V8 distributor. Your ignition coil is an early aftermarket item. There is a coil rebuilding service in Florida, USA offered by Skip Haney. If you were to contact him by email he can most likely get you an original Ford rebuilt coil, and a new tested good condenser very quickly without shipping him your old coil. Jere 06-21-2018 @ 7:36 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 6 Joined: Jun 2018 It seems that I'll have to check it next week if I have some time to go for a drive. Heh, no NAPA Auto parts here in the northern Europe, but similar, which none of them sell parts for classic/vintage US cars. Almost everything has to be ordered from US. 40Coupe, if possible, could you send me SKip Haney's contact info. I'll get the coil and the condenser from him if I need them. Pain is merely an emotion TomO 06-21-2018 @ 9:11 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7256 Joined: Oct 2009 If your problem is caused by insufficient fuel, a fuel delivery test will show this. Here is a link to the test instructions. I would remove the extra filter as it is not necessary and that would be fewer connections to leak vacuum on the input side of the fuel pump. I do not recommend rubber fuel lines, either. A good flex line from the copper coated steel line that comes from the tank to the fuel pump is required and its connections must be air tight. https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=16&Topic=7440&keywords=fuel%20delivery If your problem is a weak coil or condenser, a spark test will help determine this. Let the engine run until it is at normal operating temperatures and using an insulated tool, remove one spark plug wire and hold the wire near a head nut. The spark should be about 12 mm long and blue in color. An red or orange color, indicates a weak spark. Skip Haney's web site is: http://www.fordcollector.com/ His contact information is on the water pump page. Contact him before you send the coil to him as he may not be able to rebuild it. If the fuel system and the ignition system pass the tests, the problem could be caused by the filter restricting the air flow. Your spark plugs would be black with carbon deposits if this is the case. Tom This message was edited by TomO on 6-21-18 @ 9:21 AM JayChicago 06-21-2018 @ 6:38 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 486 Joined: Jan 2016 Lots of good trouble-shooting suggestions here, both on fuel delivery and ignition possibilities. But it seems no one has yet mentioned the quickest, easiest, most conclusive diagnostic test ever to have been discovered by mankind: When the engine stalls, remove the air cleaner and look down into the throat of the carburetor. While moving the throttle linkage by hand, you should see a good stream of gasoline squirt into the throat. No gasoline squirt shows the carburetor is empty, fuel delivery is the problem. A good squirt of gasoline means fuel delivery probably not the problem, move on to check for weak spark. shogun1940 06-22-2018 @ 3:31 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 464 Joined: Feb 2010 All good suggestions ,, after it stalls and you get it running again wave an unlit propane torch over the carb, if it speeds up and runs better you know you have a fuel problem. I use one all the time to find vacuum leaks which should be checked for.

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