| Jere | -- 06-20-2018 @ 9:16 AM |
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Hi guys n' gals! I have a completely restored 1939 pickup here in Finland. I didn't do the restoration my self, so my knowledge on this car is not as wide as it should. The problem is that when I go out for a drive, I can get as far as around 6-8 miles and the engine stalls and stops. After, I just pump the gas pedal and push the start button. While starting I keep on pumping the gas and at the same time I pull on the choke and I get the engine running, but just barely. After I get it run just so and so, I have to do tricks with gas pedal and the choke at the same time and it runs for a half a mile or a mile and does it again. Fuel pump rod is in accurate length, it moves the accurate amount up and down, there's no leaks anywhere and the glass cup doesn't collect anything, nor does an extra filter in the rubber line before the cars own pump. Cars own pump works all fine too. I swapped the original air filter to a K&N, since the original oil bath filter has few bangs here and there and I'm not really shure if it works the way it should. Everything is rebuilt or new. ...help...
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| MG | -- 06-20-2018 @ 9:22 AM |
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The symptoms are similar to a coil breaking down from heat....
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| cliftford | -- 06-20-2018 @ 1:01 PM |
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What you describe sounds more like fuel starvation than an ignition problem, but I could be wrong. Plugged gas line or plugged vent in cap? Try running it without the cap on. If no difference, check flex for air leaks, if none, try blowing out the gas line. Of course, remove cap first. This message was edited by cliftford on 6-20-18 @ 1:59 PM
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| 4dFordSC | -- 06-20-2018 @ 3:40 PM |
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Have you tried changing the extra filter?
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| Jere | -- 06-21-2018 @ 2:58 AM |
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Ok, I forgot to mention that I ran the car without the fuel cap, no difference. I'll try to change the extra filter next week and see what it does, if nothing. Coil problem. Ahmm. That's interesting, but plausible. I guess I have to order a new coil and see what it does. Pain is merely an emotion
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| 40 Coupe | -- 06-21-2018 @ 3:39 AM |
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Usually if the coil or the ignition condenser are going bad, it is heat that brings the problem to the front. If you have the problem again, try to let the engine cool down and see if it will restart and run properly and then the problem repeats after again warming up. If the engine runs good cold then change the ignition condenser to a new one, first. Be aware that many of the new condensers offered by automotive parts stores are very inferior manufacture. Not sure if you have a NAPA Auto parts store in your area but they offer one for the 37-41 Ford V8 distributor. Your ignition coil is an early aftermarket item. There is a coil rebuilding service in Florida, USA offered by Skip Haney. If you were to contact him by email he can most likely get you an original Ford rebuilt coil, and a new tested good condenser very quickly without shipping him your old coil.
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| Jere | -- 06-21-2018 @ 7:36 AM |
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It seems that I'll have to check it next week if I have some time to go for a drive. Heh, no NAPA Auto parts here in the northern Europe, but similar, which none of them sell parts for classic/vintage US cars. Almost everything has to be ordered from US. 40Coupe, if possible, could you send me SKip Haney's contact info. I'll get the coil and the condenser from him if I need them. Pain is merely an emotion
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| TomO | -- 06-21-2018 @ 9:11 AM |
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If your problem is caused by insufficient fuel, a fuel delivery test will show this. Here is a link to the test instructions. I would remove the extra filter as it is not necessary and that would be fewer connections to leak vacuum on the input side of the fuel pump. I do not recommend rubber fuel lines, either. A good flex line from the copper coated steel line that comes from the tank to the fuel pump is required and its connections must be air tight. https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=16&Topic=7440&keywords=fuel%20delivery If your problem is a weak coil or condenser, a spark test will help determine this. Let the engine run until it is at normal operating temperatures and using an insulated tool, remove one spark plug wire and hold the wire near a head nut. The spark should be about 12 mm long and blue in color. An red or orange color, indicates a weak spark. Skip Haney's web site is: http://www.fordcollector.com/ His contact information is on the water pump page. Contact him before you send the coil to him as he may not be able to rebuild it. If the fuel system and the ignition system pass the tests, the problem could be caused by the filter restricting the air flow. Your spark plugs would be black with carbon deposits if this is the case. Tom This message was edited by TomO on 6-21-18 @ 9:21 AM
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| JayChicago | -- 06-21-2018 @ 6:38 PM |
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Lots of good trouble-shooting suggestions here, both on fuel delivery and ignition possibilities. But it seems no one has yet mentioned the quickest, easiest, most conclusive diagnostic test ever to have been discovered by mankind: When the engine stalls, remove the air cleaner and look down into the throat of the carburetor. While moving the throttle linkage by hand, you should see a good stream of gasoline squirt into the throat. No gasoline squirt shows the carburetor is empty, fuel delivery is the problem. A good squirt of gasoline means fuel delivery probably not the problem, move on to check for weak spark.
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| shogun1940 | -- 06-22-2018 @ 3:31 AM |
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All good suggestions ,, after it stalls and you get it running again wave an unlit propane torch over the carb, if it speeds up and runs better you know you have a fuel problem. I use one all the time to find vacuum leaks which should be checked for.
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| Jere | -- 07-08-2018 @ 7:14 AM |
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I changed the fuel tank since it was propably original and there we're ghosts, guerillas, dead rats, a kraken and a pirate in the tank when I drained it. Atleast now it gets clean fuel. Still stalling. I drove it a short spin around neighbourhood and realized it's the godd*mn fuel pump rod which is too short! Every time it stalled, it took a shor moment when the engine turned around and pumped a bit more fuel. At that point the motor run for a short moment and started stalling again. We towed it back home with my wife, I took out the rod, welded app. 3mm more stuff at the top end, and voilá! No stalling, no problems! :D Now I discovered another problem: it consumes more electricity than it produces while driving. Frustrating, to be honest. Pain is merely an emotion
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| Jere | -- 07-08-2018 @ 10:31 AM |
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Ok, just got back from my carage. Here's what it does: 1) when the engine is running, it charges anything between 6,2 to 9,2 or even more, depending on the rpm 2) when the engine stops, the voltage starts to drop, falling 0,01V in every 3-5 seconds or so. If I'm correct, I need to replace voltage regulator on top of the generator? Couldn't find any other relevant part which would cause such issues. In the meantime, I'm thinking that driving the car is not smart, since it charges whatever and that might eventually bust the battery? I have an Optima 6v battery and them ain't too cheap anywhere. Pain is merely an emotion
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| TomO | -- 07-08-2018 @ 10:49 AM |
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If the battery voltage drops as fast as your post says, the battery needs to be replaced. When you shut off the motor the battery should read 6.0 to 6.3 volts and maintain that reading for 24 hours if the battery is disconnected from the car by removing the grounding cable. If it maintains its voltage when disconnected from the car, you have a short some where in the car. Connect a test light between the grounding cable and the battery post with the cable disconnected from the post. If the light glows, you have a short. You will have to disconnect wires to find the short. Take photos before disconnecting the wires, so you can get them back on the right place. The generator cutout would be a good place to start. If the light stops glowing when you disconnect a wire, you have found the short. Repair the short and then reconnect the wires with the test light still checking for shorts, in case there is more than one short. Tom
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| Jere | -- 08-21-2018 @ 5:45 AM |
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Hi all, after a while. The battery drainage was caused by the heater motor switch, which was in a wrong position. No problem with that now. The bad starting was fixed by welding 2 to 3 mm more material to the top end of the fuel pump rod. But, the story continues... Now, when I start the car and turn it off (doesn't matter how long it runs, 5 min or 3 hours), it just won't start again. Feck! While starting the battery voltage drops down to about 5,4-5,8 volts. Starter runs, but barely. I have changed the grounding cables, and also those which go from the battery to the starter, via the relay. The car has a brand new wiring kit, so no need to change those. If I am not completely wrong, I'm thinking that the starter isn't in perfect condition. Cables heat up when I try to start the car. OR? Would the ignition timing be the cause? Pain is merely an emotion
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| TomO | -- 08-21-2018 @ 6:26 AM |
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The cables could be heating up because they are the wrong ones. 6 volt cables need to be used from the battery all the way to the starter. If your cables are the correct size, the starter bushings could be worn, the starter brushes could be worn or there could be an electrical problem with the starter. Tom
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