Posted By |
Discussion Topic:
Head Nut Torque Setting
-- page:
1
2
|
|
swmddo |
05-06-2011 @ 11:19 AM
|
|
|
New Member
Posts: 111
Joined: Oct 2009
|
Thanks to both of you! My block had been hot tanked, magnafluxed, sleeved for 2 cylinders after fixing small cracks, and honed. I used aviation sealant, per the machine shop for the studs, and just scr*w*d them in, until it stopped...no real pressure then. I used a stud remover tool to tighten them, just so the threads disappeared. Steve
This message was edited by swmddo on 5-6-11 @ 11:20 AM
|
supereal |
05-06-2011 @ 10:43 AM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
|
I agree with Dan, but be sure to use a thread chaser, not a threading tap, to clean the stud holes in the block. These old cast iron blocks are fragile, and it is too easy to ruin the existing threads. We just finished an 8BA engine for a customer, and in spite of great care, we had one "wet" stud. The engine had to be drained so we could Helicoil the offending place. Even though we put plenty of sealer on the studs, the erosion was enough to allow the seepage. We use the ARP locking studs so we don't have to tighten them as much as the original. This engine would have had bolts instead of studs, but the owner wanted finned heads and an "old style" look.
|
Stroker |
05-06-2011 @ 10:36 AM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 1460
Joined: Oct 2009
|
I'd make sure the block holes are chased with a tap, apply anti-seize compound, double nut and tighten just enough that they don't come out easily. If you try to torque them like the head nuts, you may strip out the threads.
|
swmddo |
05-06-2011 @ 10:03 AM
|
|
|
New Member
Posts: 111
Joined: Oct 2009
|
Should I torque the new studs to the block the same as the head nuts? (59AB engine) Steve
|
BigBlockFord |
03-19-2011 @ 5:15 AM
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 68
Joined: Nov 2009
|
Thank you all for the info and the help. I am new to this. This is my dream car ever since I was a kid. It is great to have so many friendly people here to offer their assistance. I loosened and the torqued down the head nuts to 55 lbs. Then cleaned up the heads with a rag and WD40, and a Dremel tool I wire brushed the nuts and studs to remove the oxidation and rust. Then took it out for a 10 mile run, and re-torqued at 55 lbs. I was amazed how much more they seated when the engine was hot. So, I'll keep an eye on it and see if this helps with the seepage. Many thanks!
|
TomO |
03-15-2011 @ 7:51 AM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 7256
Joined: Oct 2009
|
Here is a direct link to the head torque sequence. http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_cylinderhead_torque-specs.htm
Tom
|
supereal |
03-14-2011 @ 8:59 AM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
|
For cast iron heads, 50-60 foot lbs. For aluminum heads,35-40 ft lbs. Be sure that the head studs and their threads are clean and dry, and the nuts also have clean threads, or the torque readings will not be correct. We use washers under the nuts on aluminum heads to protect the surface. No washers on iron heads. Be sure to tighten in sequence, beginning at the center. Recheck after all nuts are in place, then again after 100 miles or so. We recheck them when the engine is cool.
|
Stroker |
03-13-2011 @ 5:16 PM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 1460
Joined: Oct 2009
|
Best source I've found for all-around torque spec's: http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_specs-85to100mid.htm
|
37RAGTOPMAN |
03-13-2011 @ 5:11 PM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 1965
Joined: Oct 2009
|
I torque mine to 50-55 lbs, just make sure you studs and nuts are not frozen, the nuts must move on the stud, back them off before torquing down, and do it cold, than run the car and retorque after putting a few miles on HOW did you make out with the seepage around the studs, a friend of mine works for a GM dealer, he says, every new car gets 2 tablets of a coolant sealer,its like a solid bars leak, using just water till the leakage stops, it seals up better then antifreeze matter if fact you can buy them from any GM DEALER. hope this helps 37RAGTOPMAN
|
BigBlockFord |
03-13-2011 @ 2:42 PM
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 68
Joined: Nov 2009
|
What is the appropriate setting for torquing the head? Also other common torque settings? Is there a cheat sheet somewhere on basic torque settings?
|