| BigBlockFord | -- 04-20-2010 @ 6:30 PM |
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My V8 appears to have coolant corrosion coming from some of the studs. What is the correct torque setting for the heads? Common issue???
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| ford38v8 | -- 04-20-2010 @ 7:36 PM |
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Big, assuming you're asking about a Flathead, no amount of torqueing will seal the leaking coolant. The problem is that the studs were installed without the benefit of sealant, needed for those studs that penetrate into the water passages. Alan
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| BigBlockFord | -- 04-21-2010 @ 7:53 PM |
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Would "Silver Seal" be a product that may help prevent the leakage?
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| ford38v8 | -- 04-21-2010 @ 9:33 PM |
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Big, I would think that it wouldn't hurt to try, but haven't heard of anything being successful other than actually pulling the stud and using a proper thread sealer on replacing it. If you do pull it, though, remember that the threads within the water passage will be rusted, and will need to work back and forth incrementally for successful removal without damage to the block threads, or breaking the stud. this can be a tricky job unless the heads are removed, providing more grip on the stud. Alan
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 04-23-2010 @ 6:16 AM |
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BIG BLOCK What you could try is to drain the coolant, just back off the nuts that are leaking,wind string or even better would be plumbers teflon tape, the old timers used string under the nuts, this is worth a try and will only take minutes, just retorque the head nut back to specs,run the engine to operating temp and retorque when cold. you will not have to replace 2 headgaskets, and silverseal or bar leak will also help, just use a little bit, hope this helps my 3 cents worth 37RAGTOPMAN Pulling the studs and sealing them will be better, but that also is not a guarrantee.it can still leak past the head gasket and seep up the stud and out from the under the nut,,
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| supereal | -- 04-23-2010 @ 9:10 AM |
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"Back in the day" it wasn't uncommon to have a "wet" stud after backyard rebuild because we seldom replaced the studs, as we do today. You can try a good sealer, such as Barr's, but it is likely that it won't hold because the stud is probably eroded enough to allow considerable coolant to escape. Many of the stud threads in these old blocks are fragile, and we often have to Helicoil several holes to allow sufficient torquing without pulling out a stud.
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| BigBlockFord | -- 03-13-2011 @ 2:42 PM |
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What is the appropriate setting for torquing the head? Also other common torque settings? Is there a cheat sheet somewhere on basic torque settings?
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 03-13-2011 @ 5:11 PM |
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I torque mine to 50-55 lbs, just make sure you studs and nuts are not frozen, the nuts must move on the stud, back them off before torquing down, and do it cold, than run the car and retorque after putting a few miles on HOW did you make out with the seepage around the studs, a friend of mine works for a GM dealer, he says, every new car gets 2 tablets of a coolant sealer,its like a solid bars leak, using just water till the leakage stops, it seals up better then antifreeze matter if fact you can buy them from any GM DEALER. hope this helps 37RAGTOPMAN
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| Stroker | -- 03-13-2011 @ 5:16 PM |
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Best source I've found for all-around torque spec's: http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_specs-85to100mid.htm
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| supereal | -- 03-14-2011 @ 8:59 AM |
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For cast iron heads, 50-60 foot lbs. For aluminum heads,35-40 ft lbs. Be sure that the head studs and their threads are clean and dry, and the nuts also have clean threads, or the torque readings will not be correct. We use washers under the nuts on aluminum heads to protect the surface. No washers on iron heads. Be sure to tighten in sequence, beginning at the center. Recheck after all nuts are in place, then again after 100 miles or so. We recheck them when the engine is cool.
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| TomO | -- 03-15-2011 @ 7:51 AM |
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Here is a direct link to the head torque sequence. http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_cylinderhead_torque-specs.htm Tom
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| BigBlockFord | -- 03-19-2011 @ 5:15 AM |
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Thank you all for the info and the help. I am new to this. This is my dream car ever since I was a kid. It is great to have so many friendly people here to offer their assistance. I loosened and the torqued down the head nuts to 55 lbs. Then cleaned up the heads with a rag and WD40, and a Dremel tool I wire brushed the nuts and studs to remove the oxidation and rust. Then took it out for a 10 mile run, and re-torqued at 55 lbs. I was amazed how much more they seated when the engine was hot. So, I'll keep an eye on it and see if this helps with the seepage. Many thanks!
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| swmddo | -- 05-06-2011 @ 10:03 AM |
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Should I torque the new studs to the block the same as the head nuts? (59AB engine) Steve
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| Stroker | -- 05-06-2011 @ 10:36 AM |
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I'd make sure the block holes are chased with a tap, apply anti-seize compound, double nut and tighten just enough that they don't come out easily. If you try to torque them like the head nuts, you may strip out the threads.
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| supereal | -- 05-06-2011 @ 10:43 AM |
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I agree with Dan, but be sure to use a thread chaser, not a threading tap, to clean the stud holes in the block. These old cast iron blocks are fragile, and it is too easy to ruin the existing threads. We just finished an 8BA engine for a customer, and in spite of great care, we had one "wet" stud. The engine had to be drained so we could Helicoil the offending place. Even though we put plenty of sealer on the studs, the erosion was enough to allow the seepage. We use the ARP locking studs so we don't have to tighten them as much as the original. This engine would have had bolts instead of studs, but the owner wanted finned heads and an "old style" look.
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| swmddo | -- 05-06-2011 @ 11:19 AM |
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Thanks to both of you! My block had been hot tanked, magnafluxed, sleeved for 2 cylinders after fixing small cracks, and honed. I used aviation sealant, per the machine shop for the studs, and just scr*w*d them in, until it stopped...no real pressure then. I used a stud remover tool to tighten them, just so the threads disappeared. Steve This message was edited by swmddo on 5-6-11 @ 11:20 AM
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