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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 1936 Not running right

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Discussion Topic: 1936 Not running right -- page: 1 2

forJJ

08-31-2017 @ 5:00 PM

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I just got my 36 on the road this summer. Original, survivor, nothing custom. I rewired everything, new tank, gas line, rebuilt carb, and new valves. It was running fine, and then it cut off while driving. Trailered it home. It will idle, but no power. It runs rough and will cut off if I give it gas. I swapped carbs, but it didn't help. Any ideas?

carcrazy

08-31-2017 @ 5:20 PM

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I would check the ignition system first. The coil may have gone bad.

forJJ

08-31-2017 @ 6:40 PM

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I have extra coils, is there any way to test them?

TomO

09-01-2017 @ 6:41 AM

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Pull a spark plug wire and hold it close to a head nut while the engine is idling. You should have a nice 1/2" long blue spark. If it is orange in color, you can try a new condenser and if that doesn't work a different coil.

If the different coil fixes the weak spark, send your original coil to Skip Haney to have it rebuilt. The rebuilt will last you many years.

http://www.fordcollector.com/

Tom

Grant

09-01-2017 @ 6:47 AM

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Our '36 acted up like that once.

It turned out that the vacuum brake adjuster nut and bolt on the 40B distributor had worked their way loose.

The fix was to gently turn the bolt all the way down, then back it out two full turns, and after that tighten down the nut.

Good luck.

supereal

09-02-2017 @ 12:03 PM

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Starting at the battery, follow the wiring, including the battery cable terminals, for good, tight connections. We have seen cables that have corroded inside the terminals produce that problem at one end or the other of both cables. A loose or dirty connection at the solenoid is a possibility. Place a voltmeter across the ends of all wiring in the system. Any reading shows loss in that part. I agree that the ignition switch is often the culprit, as are terminals on the coil and distributor. These can be hard to find, so flex the wiring near the terminals as you test them.Almost all problems are due to the last thing you did. As you have rewired "everything", it will take some time.

forJJ

09-02-2017 @ 12:03 PM

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The coil that is on the car was rebuilt by Skip, so I don't think that is the issue, but I want to test it anyway. As far as vacuum, I have mechanical brakes, but I'm going to check the other lines.

Thanks for the suggestions.

pauls39coupe

09-02-2017 @ 5:17 PM

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It sounds like you may have had one side or the other of your points partially close up. Rubbing blocks wear, springs break, locking screws slip. Lack or sufficient dwell will cause the problem you describe.
Check for spark like Tom said that is likely your problem.
The vacuum brake Grant spoke of is that big nut thing on the top right hand side of your distributor. It's function is to limit the amount of centrifical advance in the distributor and is controlled by engine vacuum. If that is loose you would have a vacuum leak which would upset performance.
As Super suggested check all your electrical connections and grounds. Condenser failure is common and even Skip can have a coil fail now and then.

forJJ

09-04-2017 @ 12:46 PM

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I checked the spark. I am not getting 1/2" of spark when running. I only see blue-ish spark when the wire is within 1/8" of the plug. I checked my spare parts, and tried a different condenser, but same issue. The spare coils I have are the wrong ones, so I am thinking about buying a new coil and condenser. Any other suggestions before I spend $150?

pauls39coupe

09-04-2017 @ 3:48 PM

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Yup! Pull the distributor and check the points. Make sure the point springs are not broken, and that the rotor is in good shape The contacts should be bright and shinny. The gap should be between .014 to .016. If it is much less than that you will not get sufficient dwell. Short dwell time would not let your coil fully charge, thus the weak spark, and poor performance at anything above idle.
The distributor has an offset drive tang, and will only go back on one way. Use care to be sure the tang is engaged in the cam before you tighten the bolts on the housing.
Please post back and let us know what you find.
Paul

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