| forJJ | -- 08-31-2017 @ 5:00 PM |
|
I just got my 36 on the road this summer. Original, survivor, nothing custom. I rewired everything, new tank, gas line, rebuilt carb, and new valves. It was running fine, and then it cut off while driving. Trailered it home. It will idle, but no power. It runs rough and will cut off if I give it gas. I swapped carbs, but it didn't help. Any ideas?
|
|
| carcrazy | -- 08-31-2017 @ 5:20 PM |
|
I would check the ignition system first. The coil may have gone bad.
|
|
| forJJ | -- 08-31-2017 @ 6:40 PM |
|
I have extra coils, is there any way to test them?
|
|
| TomO | -- 09-01-2017 @ 6:41 AM |
|
Pull a spark plug wire and hold it close to a head nut while the engine is idling. You should have a nice 1/2" long blue spark. If it is orange in color, you can try a new condenser and if that doesn't work a different coil. If the different coil fixes the weak spark, send your original coil to Skip Haney to have it rebuilt. The rebuilt will last you many years. http://www.fordcollector.com/ Tom
|
|
| Grant | -- 09-01-2017 @ 6:47 AM |
|
Our '36 acted up like that once. It turned out that the vacuum brake adjuster nut and bolt on the 40B distributor had worked their way loose. The fix was to gently turn the bolt all the way down, then back it out two full turns, and after that tighten down the nut. Good luck.
|
|
| supereal | -- 09-02-2017 @ 12:03 PM |
|
Starting at the battery, follow the wiring, including the battery cable terminals, for good, tight connections. We have seen cables that have corroded inside the terminals produce that problem at one end or the other of both cables. A loose or dirty connection at the solenoid is a possibility. Place a voltmeter across the ends of all wiring in the system. Any reading shows loss in that part. I agree that the ignition switch is often the culprit, as are terminals on the coil and distributor. These can be hard to find, so flex the wiring near the terminals as you test them.Almost all problems are due to the last thing you did. As you have rewired "everything", it will take some time.
|
|
| forJJ | -- 09-02-2017 @ 12:03 PM |
|
The coil that is on the car was rebuilt by Skip, so I don't think that is the issue, but I want to test it anyway. As far as vacuum, I have mechanical brakes, but I'm going to check the other lines. Thanks for the suggestions.
|
|
| pauls39coupe | -- 09-02-2017 @ 5:17 PM |
|
It sounds like you may have had one side or the other of your points partially close up. Rubbing blocks wear, springs break, locking screws slip. Lack or sufficient dwell will cause the problem you describe. Check for spark like Tom said that is likely your problem. The vacuum brake Grant spoke of is that big nut thing on the top right hand side of your distributor. It's function is to limit the amount of centrifical advance in the distributor and is controlled by engine vacuum. If that is loose you would have a vacuum leak which would upset performance. As Super suggested check all your electrical connections and grounds. Condenser failure is common and even Skip can have a coil fail now and then.
|
|
| forJJ | -- 09-04-2017 @ 12:46 PM |
|
I checked the spark. I am not getting 1/2" of spark when running. I only see blue-ish spark when the wire is within 1/8" of the plug. I checked my spare parts, and tried a different condenser, but same issue. The spare coils I have are the wrong ones, so I am thinking about buying a new coil and condenser. Any other suggestions before I spend $150?
|
|
| pauls39coupe | -- 09-04-2017 @ 3:48 PM |
|
Yup! Pull the distributor and check the points. Make sure the point springs are not broken, and that the rotor is in good shape The contacts should be bright and shinny. The gap should be between .014 to .016. If it is much less than that you will not get sufficient dwell. Short dwell time would not let your coil fully charge, thus the weak spark, and poor performance at anything above idle. The distributor has an offset drive tang, and will only go back on one way. Use care to be sure the tang is engaged in the cam before you tighten the bolts on the housing. Please post back and let us know what you find. Paul
|
|
| fenbach | -- 09-04-2017 @ 5:04 PM |
|
cloud be a simple as a clogged fuel filter or weak fuel pump. crud in the tank or line?
|
|
| TomO | -- 09-05-2017 @ 7:32 AM |
|
Try holding the wire near a head nut. I would not invest in a new coil at this point. The spark that you got when holding the wire to a plug is weak, but should be strong enough to allow the car to run at 35 mph and higher. Check the voltage at the input to the coil with the engine stopped. It should read near battery voltage when the points are open and around 3-4 volts with the points closed. Low voltage here could cause a weak spark. Fuel delivery could also be a problem. 7. ____ Check fuel pump. 7.1. Disconnect fuel pump line from the carburetor and direct the output to a graduated container. 7.2. Crank the engine with the ignition switch OFF until 2 ounces of fuel has been delivered, this amount ensures that the pump is fully primed. 7.3. Continue cranking the engine for 15 more stokes of the fuel pump. The container should contain 7-8 ounces of fuel. Less indicates a problem with fuel delivery. Check for weak vacuum on the supply side of the pump or clogged lines. Replace the pump if vacuum is less than 6 inches. Clean and tighten the fuel lines, replace deteriorated flex line. Tom
|
|
| forJJ | -- 09-10-2017 @ 1:46 PM |
|
Tom- I tried holding the wire near a head nut, but got no spark at all. I wil test the voltage again, but i think it is ok. The fuel pump seems like it is fine, but i will try you procedure and report back. Thanks! I'm also going to check cylinder compression, just incase.
|
|
| forJJ | -- 09-10-2017 @ 4:04 PM |
|
Ok, I tested the fuel pump, and I got 8 oz, so I'm pretty sure it's not fuel delivery. I don't currently have a filter on the car, and everything with the fuel system is brand new. I tested the voltage at the coil. With the switch off, I get battery voltage. With the ignition switch on, I get 3.4 or so. Does that sound right?
|
|
| forJJ | -- 09-10-2017 @ 4:40 PM |
|
Ok. I pulled the distributor, and the first thing I noticed was the vacuum line separated from the nut. I'll post some pics of the inside of the distributor as well
|
|
| forJJ | -- 09-10-2017 @ 4:42 PM |
|
Is there an easy way to upload multiple pics?
|
|
| pauls39coupe | -- 09-11-2017 @ 7:48 AM |
|
Check our point gap you should have .014 to .016. The contact surfaces should be bright and shiney. It looks like there is a chip out of the front part of the rotor, be sure it not break the cap, or that the rotor is not cracked. The vacuum line should not come off like that, but I doubt that it would cause the problems you describe. Can you post a picture of the other side of the distributor?
|
|
| pauls39coupe | -- 09-11-2017 @ 7:59 AM |
|
Take an OHM meter and make sure the points are not shorted out. You should have no connection between the moveable point and the distributor base, with the points open. Slip a piece of cardboard or thin plastic between both of the contacts to make this check. It is possible that the movable points could be shorted out where the spring is scr*w*d to the base.
|
|
| TomO | -- 09-11-2017 @ 8:16 AM |
|
The vacuum line does not use a ferrule, so it could separate like that. It should not have made a difference. Both rotor contacts have chips out of them, so you will need a new rotor. If your inner caps have the silver contacts on them, they are the ones made in Argentina and they will destroy most rotors. look for damage around the contacts on both inner caps. When you checked the voltage at the input to the coil, did you tap the starter button to see if the voltage changed? The 3.4 volts that you posted is good for when the points are closed and not good for when the points are open. If that is the voltage with the points open, then your ignition switch may be causing the problem. Tom
|
|
| Larry Lange | -- 10-29-2017 @ 12:51 PM |
|
If your connections are all good and everything's tight, consider installing a Standard UC-14 coil on your distributor. You'll need an adaptor and you'll need to bypass the resistor on the firewall. But it should give you a good spark. Larry Lange
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=11143 |